Brush hog advice

[stevewatr]

Been looking at used hogs for my Ford 1920. It is 32hp, loaded front tires, and suitcase weights up front, no loader. Turf tires on back give me an 80" overall rear width, so most people have been saying I should get a 6' hog.

I'd rather get a good deal on a better made used one, than a new cheper model.

I know a dealer who has a JD 609 on consignment, says the owner is asking $1500, but its been sitting a while, so he says make an offer.

The good: It is a beefier unit, about 1200 lbs. Slip clutch.

The bad: no chains/ guards present.

I was going to shoot a lowball offer and see what happens, but I am worried about the weight of this unit on my tractor. The 3 point lift capacity is Cat I, 2185 lbs., but will stress my midsection too much???? I heard about tractors splitting in two from 3 point backhoes, or is that not the same issue.


Thanks,
Steve W.

 

[RoyJackson]

The bad: no chains/ guards present.

You can fabricate chains or other type of guard. Old truck mudflaps cut down would work

I was going to shoot a lowball offer and see what happens, but I am worried about the weight of this unit on my tractor. The 3 point lift capacity is Cat I, 2185 lbs., but will stress my midsection too much???? I heard about tractors splitting in two from 3 point backhoes, or is that not the same issue.

Thanks,
Steve W.

For the most part, the backhoe related stresses are unrelated to the stresses of weigh on the 3PH.

However, that's not to say weight (especially considering the length of a cutter) cannot be detrimental. There have been a few (not many at all) threads describing tractor breakage by weight on the 3PH.

There are a few things you can do to reduce the stresses:
1) Travel at a reasonable speed...especially if the cutter is raised in transport.
2) disconnect the top link (when you're transporting the cutter) and "tow" it using the tail wheel to bear some of the weight (this is what I do, BTW).
3) make any turns gradual (especially when the cutter is raised)

 

[2LateIWon]

I put a strip of conveyor belt on the back of mine. I welded a piece of angle iron on the deck then bolted the belt onto the angle iron. After using it awhile I just cut slits (because I was mowing more tall and wet stuff) but it worked great!! I got the conveyor belt for free from a manufacture that had shut down.

 

[stevewatr]

Some good ideas about guards. Some of these companies want crazy money for the guards! As for the size, met an old farmer today with a 6 foot woods, and he says I'm crazy to try a 6 footer on my tractor, and his buddy claims it will ruin my PTO clutch. But thays the guy trying to sell me his used 5 footer. It has a tear in the top deck up front, but I could get a plate welded on that. He wants $500, down from his ask of $650. I think I'll wait a bit and see what else pops up on Craig's list.......

 

[bucktaker]

I agree a 60" mower would be better suited for your tractor. See if you could test out the jd 609 try it in heavy grass to see how you handle it

 

[LD1]

Without a FEL, and with a HEAVY 6' cutter on the back, I think the wrong end is going to raise when you move the lever.

 

[greg_g]

Two things going against you here; horsepower and weight. Your engine may be rated at 32hp, but it's not likely you have more than 27.5 at the PTO. That's simply not enough for a 72" rotary cutter, except in the lightest of mowing conditions. Unless you're satisfied with mowing at the dead slow. But if you're in that light of stuff, you'd likely be better off with a HD finish mower. I can give a glowing recommendation to the seven foot First Choice GM35-84.

Second is that 1200# at the rear. You didn't specify if the 1920 was 2wd or 4wd. But - particularly if it's 2wd - the combined front ballast ain't gonna cut it, especially if you've got many slopes to crest.

//greg//

 

[LD1]

Tractor data shows him having 29HP @ the PTO.

Same as my kubota. And I have no issues at all with the power with my 6' cutter.

I think the issue is going to be the weight. I dont know how much that JD cutter weighs, but my BH 306 is 1100lbs. Leaving the FEL on is a MUST.

but keep in mind that Mowing time is a function of your HP, and not your cutter size. A smaller cutter allows you to go faster. A larger cutter you have to slow down for. But the end result will be the same.

The ONLY reason I have a 1100lb 6' cutter behind my little kubota is because I got it used on c-list for $200. A deal I couldnt pass up. If/When I come across a good heavy duty 5' cutter, I will buy it and sell my 306.

IMO, $1500 is a bit much. Shop on c-list. Good cutters come up freuently at good prices. I could run a we could run 7 or 8 foot cutters if we wanted to behind out 29HP tractors. We would just have to slow down accordingly.

 

[snowjoker]

Like mentioned already you really dont have no where near enough HP to run a 6 Foot mower... I ran a Ford 5000 with a 6 foot woods and at times it was bogging down pretty good and that is a 65 hp tractor ! If you plan on mowing half the height of your knee weeds then you should be OK.... otherwise get a 5 foot mower, then you wont regret it. I have a 4 foot king cutter on for my 30 hp TO 30 ferguson and mowing 5 foot weeds eats up all my hp... and my tractor has about 300 hours since a complete engine overhaul.. good luck !

 

[RickB]

Lots of 1920's around here with rotary cutters attached. Probably split darn near 50/50 between 5 foot machines and 6 foot. Unless you are going after 2" diameter brush or VERY tall, thick grass, I'd opt for a 6 foot cutter similar to a Bush Hog Squealer series. You can cut 5 feet with a 6 foot cutter, but you can't cut 6 feet wide with a 5 foot machine.
Downside: a 1200 lb R/C will make your front end light. I think the 609 is too heavy for your tractor configuration.