Toothbar teeth welded or pinned?

[PM Baker]

(H&H Sales - EZ Standard Model - Notice V-notch edge mount)


I'm looking to buy a 72" toothbar, and am wondering about the replaceable teeth. I notice that Iowa Farm Equipment's 8 tooth 72" has welded on replaceable tips, while WR Long and others use pins to attach the replaceable tips (teeth). See detailed bucket teeth description at bottom of http://www.qualityweldingservice.com/bucketteeth.html
Which is better?





It'll go on my 1977, MF 30B, 46HP, w 34A Loader

 

[oldnslo]

If you use them enough to wear them out the pinned on versions are much easier to replace.

 

[k0ua]

I can't offer any help but I too am interested in the reply's. Also there are weld on and bolt on teeth to go directly on your cutting edge without the tooth-bar to consider. There are also at least 3 types of pin on tooth systems to consider, some are considerably more expensive than others. Not to mention the different types of "teeth" I am still on the fence on how to go. Keep us informed on your decision and what knowledge you gain from this experience.

James K0UA

 

[blunosr]

I bought a set of bolt on teeth for my Bobcat bucket this morning. 8 teeth, with pin on tips and replacement bolts, for $271. I figured that was better than shelling out for a ratchet rake. I hope the tooth bucket will work like a ratchet rake?

Anyways, the pins are split, with rubber between so they look quite serviceable. I am quite pleased with them, although not installed yet.

Luckily, my tractor bucket is interchangeable with the Bobcat, so I'll have a smooth bucket if needed.

Bye for now,

Troy

 

[Ken45101]

A tooth bar and a Ratchet Rake are two totally different tools and do not substitute for each other. A tooth bar is for digging, a RR is for tearing out vegetation and for smoothing (e.g. raking).

Depending on your use, I would not want weld on teeth for the bucket unless I had a smooth bucket. With the teeth on there, you cannot backdrag and smooth out an area, the teeth always leave their grooves in the dirt since they extend below the bucket. I would go with a tooth bar.

That said, a toothbar is heavy (150#?) and not something that you take on and off at a moment's whim. But still, for certain jobs, I would definitely want it removable.

I think the pin on is perfectly adequate and, as mentioned, easier to replace (unless you can do the welding yourself).

Ken

 

[PILOON]

While my home made bar is removable I never do so.
I use my back blade!
Occasionally I revert to back grading using my bucket 'heel' and I intend to add a decent wear bar/plate as I fear wearing out the bucket bottom.
A decent HD angle would be the ideal solution for this I believe.

 

[Ken45101]

While my home made bar is removable I never do so.
I use my back blade!

I think backdragging a smooth bucket can leave a better (and more compressed) surface than a back blade. Of course it depends on what you are working with and how you want the finished surface to be.

Just the other day I used the smooth tractor bucket on the skid steer to clean up the driveway after cutting some firewood. (The regular skid steer bucket had the tooth bar on it and wouldn't have cleaned it up as well.)

Ken