Rear Blade Should I buy this rear blade?

[Anonymous Poster]

I'm picking up my NH TC18 this tuesday. I found a 6' rear blade today (used) for $185. I plan on grading my entire lawn at 1 1/2 acres. Is this blade too big for my tractor? Would the blade be handy for grading? If you had a choice between a box blade and rear blade for grading, what would you choose? I don't think I can afford both. As you can probably see, I am new to owning anything bigger than a garden tractor. Thanx,
Dave

 

[Wheeldog]

Hi Dave,
I think a 6' blade will be too big to use for grading with your TC18. I have a Kubota B2410 and 6' blade that I use for snow plowing, but I don't think it would be very manageable for dirt work. (Also, I think that $185 indicates a 6' blade that you may end up bending or breaking if you try to work it real hard).

Edit: Just re-read your post and realized the $185 is for a used blade, so what I said about that may not apply. Just the same, I think most people on TBN would recommend a good quality box blade if you're interested in grading.

Rob

 

[Anonymous Poster]

box blades are for grading so get a box blade.
you can pickup a cheap used one at http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/adsearch.html , over a box blade looks more sturdy

 

[rmorgan]

TC18--

If by "grading" you mean cleaning things up and scooting some topsoil around, a boxblade will be much more useful than a rear blade; unless you're moving loose material, the rear blade will pretty much bounce around, and if you are moving heavy material, it will slough it off the sides. As both Wheeldog and Jai say, rear blades are not meant for moving dirt.

But if by "grading" you mean that you plan to change contours of the land or, as your profile suggests, enlarging your yard, you've got a real job ahead of you on 1.5 acres with your new TC18 and any implement. Ground engaging is the hardest work a tractor does, and factors of horsepower, traction, weight, and tread all come into play. As compared to a rear blade, the box blade's scarifiers make it possible at least to dig down a bit, but you still have to have the juice to dig in and pull the dirt around. In any soil (and especially clay like we have here in Ohio),this is a serious piece of work requiring serious equipment. Also, here, it's necessary to stockpile topsoil before doing any contouring; otherwise the good stuff ends up buried. Others may disagree, but I think that for any significant reshaping, hiring a pro to rough things in is well worth it, taking into account your time, having a project not drag on for ever, and wear and tear on your equipment. If a really skilled operator with a dozer or Bobcat can get the rough stuff done in half a day, that leaves plenty of finish work which is better-suited to a compact tractor.

 

[JTD]

I agree with the purchase of a good boxblade first. I have both a 6 ft boxblade and 6 ft heavy duty hydraulic offset rear blade for my JD4700. I use the rear blade for ditching and rough road work and follow up with the boxblade for final work. I use the boxblade far more often. I have a mixture of sand and clay and when the rear blade bits in I can stop my JD cold. Serious grading is best hired out to professionals with larger equipment and experience. You could rent larger equipment yourself and possibly save some $ but good grading takes lots of experience. You could end up making a bigger mess.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I started with a rear blade and added a box blade later. I've found the box blade to be much more useful for most tasks.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I plan on taking down high spots and filling in low spots. For the most part, my yard is flat. Example, the topsoil on my leech lines has sunk 10'', has never been filled so I plan on filling and "grading" it smooth. I don't have any work heavy enough to have someone else do it with a bigger machine. It sounds like the box blade is the way to go. If I run my tiller through my yard very well, add a couple inches of new topsoil, and then go over it with a box blade, would I be ready to seed? Thank you for your help, this site is great!!!
- Dave

 

[hazmat]

6' too big for dirt work on the TC18. I have a 5' myself, & can easily run out of traction. For the work you describe, a box blade may be better (haven't ever tried one - but that seems to be the consensus on TBN). The rear blade isn't great for moving dirt from point A to point B. It does do a decent job of smoothing out loose dirt that you moved with your FEL or had delivered (dump truck).

Good luck & glad you're sticking around after the purchase.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">...Would the blade be handy for grading?...</font>

First, you need some bulk weight to pull with... whether it's a back blade or box blade...

See if you can rent/borrow a 42" box blade... I feel will work much better doing the job you have in mind versus using a rear blade (no scarifiers for cutting/loosening up the top surface)...

You have to realize, you only have under 15 drawbar hp and those will be your main limitations for any type of ground engagement work... you have to take it very slow and in small bite-size chunks... otherwise you'll sit there and not move with the lower hp requirements you have...

As a side note, from another thread I notice you were intending on "driving" the TC18 home "5 miles" from the dealership...

Please, please... don't do that... take my word for it... you'll be a sitting duck out there on the road and get hurt... Have the dealer deliver the unit to you home on a trailer... don't drive it on the highway or back road for 5 miles... please don't... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[rmorgan]

Dave--

That sounds like a very realistic plan, and a lot of fun to boot. Of course, you'll need a three-point seeder! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif