New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts

   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #22  
MtnViewRanch said:
JENKINSPH

CUSTOM GRADING IMPLEMENTS

:thumbsup: or STEVO-PLANE
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #23  
looks good!

I would box in the top link plates for extra support and also figure a way to tie in the 2x2 box tube to the side plates other than just a weld. IT looks great, but if there is a weak link, it will be at those welds. Its carrying the weight of the plane, plus material, plus forces from scraping/grading/ and the intial shock when it first engages rocks, hard ground, etc. I would ad some thick 1/4" angle underneath the box tube and weld it to the side of the side tube to help distribute the load and take some of the stress off of the welds.

(just food for thought before you paint it) Looks fantastic!
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #24  
If I'm not mistaken, you need a new username: jenkinsphacii (Jenkins plumbing, heating and custom implement incorporated)

Looks great though Steve! There are plenty of people that would love for you to make another one (including a larger one for myself:))
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #25  
Martian said:
Looks great though Steve! There are plenty of people that would love for you to make another one (including a larger one for myself:))

My 6 footer would probably work perfect for your 110
 

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   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts
  • Thread Starter
#26  
looks good!

I would box in the top link plates for extra support and also figure a way to tie in the 2x2 box tube to the side plates other than just a weld. IT looks great, but if there is a weak link, it will be at those welds. Its carrying the weight of the plane, plus material, plus forces from scraping/grading/ and the intial shock when it first engages rocks, hard ground, etc. I would ad some thick 1/4" angle underneath the box tube and weld it to the side of the side tube to help distribute the load and take some of the stress off of the welds.

(just food for thought before you paint it) Looks fantastic!


Good points you bring up, I have some flatbar that I will use to tie in the rear angled brace, will also add some flatbar to the skid /main beams to distrubute the loading too. I will be cleaning up the top link but this is way strong enough, remember this is for my lawn mower.

The other day before I attached the main beams to the skids I did think about using side plates with the beams and 4x4 angles sandwiched between them. Thought that the skids could then bolt on and be easily adjustable. Best part would be the skids could be used on other builds and could be training wheels on the boxblade.
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #27  
catdozer said:
My 6 footer would probably work perfect for your 110

I'm not sure 6' would cover the wheel base, I'd like a 7'. And I believe Steve made one for his 110/4520. It is a great looking land plane though!
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts
  • Thread Starter
#28  
My 6 footer would probably work perfect for your 110



As far back as you put the first blade seems you have plenty of room to roll the ends as I did in the larger plane. On my larger plane the front blade is about 4 inches behind the start of the flat running surface. This allows me to pitch the plane forward and dig in when needed. I built this larger plane for the 110 and it has no problem with it.
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts #29  
Martian said:
I'm not sure 6' would cover the wheel base, I'd like a 7'. And I believe Steve made one for his 110/4520. It is a great looking land plane though!

You might be the one to build a 7' then. Steve with his 4 and 8 foot landplane, Gordon with his 5 foot, my 6 foot, so all we need is a custom 7 foot now with Martians name on it. ;)
 
   / New landplane build for L&G and subcompacts
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Thanks for all the nice comments guys, I have to go finish it now.
 
 
 
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