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  1. #11
    Veteran Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    1,676
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    NorthEastern, VT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    On my First Chouce 7' mower I can lift the blade horizontally with the 3pt height lever to go over a stump or boulder or cut above ground level or I can change the blade angle to cut along a bank with the angle cylinder on the mower. No draw bar required. The mower has a large counter balance spring to keep the weight more evenly distributed on the two link arms and it does not need a chain to hold the light side down when you lift it off the ground. There is also a safty release that lets the whole cutter arm swing back if you hit something.
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  2. #12
    Bronze Member whirly's Avatar
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    Sep 2011
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    88
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    Pepe'ekeo, HI
    Tractor
    Fordson Power Major

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    So, if I have this correct, the chain is there on some mowers to counter the weight of the cutting bar keeping the left side down as the bar is raised.

  3. #13
    Gold Member soulasphil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    486
    Location
    France
    Tractor
    JD 3520 powerreverser

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by whirly View Post
    Now THAT is one heck of a sickle mower. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure it's way out of my price range. I'm looking for a used one that is less than $2K.
    I bought mine 3 years ago for 9K€. But it is not exactly what you are looking for, more of a hedge trimmer than a mower. You don't need the long arm and want something stronger.
    3520 PR

  4. #14
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    6,859
    Location
    VA
    Tractor
    JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by whirly View Post
    All good points. Thank you

    However, I won't be towing anything. In addition, the 3PTH was developed BECAUSE ground engagement implements, such as plows and subsoilers, attached to the drawbar caused tractors to flipover backwards. Prior to it's invention by Harry Ferguson in 1929, drawbar implement attachment was the number one cause of agricultural fatalities.

    In this case, if needed, the chains are from an attachment (sickle bar mower) mounted on the 3PTH.
    Makes me wonder how those drawbars differ from todays fixed/swinging drawbars. They are the safest place to pull from.
    larry
    This side of 40
    JD2010, Kubota L3450/FEL w SK QC, L2550 w FEL
    Mahindra 7520 [Pinky] /FEL w Skid Steer QC/w Tilt Tatch & BH, BX1500 [Mighty Mouse]
    IH37 Baler, Hesston Haybine, JD Rake
    Bushog, Flail, SK Tilt Tatch , KK tiller, Rhino rear blade, Post driver, post auger, chipper, pallet fork, Grapple/Loader Buddy, Homemade Splitter/DC Welder

  5. #15
    Bronze Member whirly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    88
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    Pepe'ekeo, HI
    Tractor
    Fordson Power Major

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by SPYDERLK View Post
    Makes me wonder how those drawbars differ from todays fixed/swinging drawbars. They are the safest place to pull from.
    larry
    Drawbars have remained essentially the same since the beginning. Here is a little sketch on why pulling type tractors flip. Flipping is/was/ and still is a danger with any pulling situation.


  6. #16
    Veteran Member yelbike's Avatar
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    Nov 2011
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    1,121
    Location
    Near Winnipeg, Mb, Canada
    Tractor
    John Deere 2305, 2320,Z465

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by whirly View Post
    Drawbars have remained essentially the same since the beginning. Here is a little sketch on why pulling type tractors flip. Flipping is/was/ and still is a danger with any pulling situation.

    I'm not sure I understand? Is the furgasson system in current day 3 point hitch? Is there any flipping risk with my jd 2320??
    Carefull what you aim for, Aim for nothing and you will achieve it with amazing accuracy.

  7. #17
    Bronze Member whirly's Avatar
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    Sep 2011
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    88
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    Pepe'ekeo, HI
    Tractor
    Fordson Power Major

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    The simple answer is ... unless you hook up an antique you should be OK.

    Using a 3pth implement for ground engagement (plow, ripper, subsoiler, etc.) is much safer than if you use the drawbar to tow the ground engagement implement on wheels. That being said, there are no ground engagement implements being sold commercially (new) today.

    The other part of the question is the drawbar. You can still flip over backwards if whatever you are towing on the drawbar gets hung up to the point the tractor can no longer move forward. Most small tractors (Less than 20 HP) will just stop and maybe kill the engine. However, if you have sufficient power, a short wheel base and insufficient weight in the front (a light engine with no forward ballast) any hangup could induce the a back flip. Forward weight is your friend and the farther forward the friendlier it is.

    Just remember, a ROPS may stop you from being crushed, but it won't stop you from being upside down or lord forbid you don't use your seatbelt, getting thrown off and injured. I believe in ROPS and think everyone should have one. The point of my original comment was that the drawbar is or can be more dangerous than many folks realize.

  8. #18
    Veteran Member s219's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    1,228
    Location
    Virginia USA
    Tractor
    Kubota B2920

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by whirly View Post
    Drawbars have remained essentially the same since the beginning. Here is a little sketch on why pulling type tractors flip. Flipping is/was/ and still is a danger with any pulling situation.

    If the drawbar is located under the axle line, then it will not allow the tractor to flip due to a pulling force (it would be physically impossible due to the moment created -- the harder you pull, the more it will resist a backward flip).

    The real danger comes from drawbars, or other pulling points including the three-point hitch, that place the pulling point above the axle. All modern tractors I have seen put the drawbar below the axle for this reason.

    The bottom image in that sketch shows the flipping moment created when you have a pulling point above the axle. The top image shows a contraption that alleviates the problem on tractors with pulling points above the axle. If your pulling point is below the axle, none of this is an issue to begin with.

  9. #19
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    6,859
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    VA
    Tractor
    JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by s219 View Post
    If the drawbar is located under the axle line, then it will not allow the tractor to flip due to a pulling force (it would be physically impossible due to the moment created -- the harder you pull, the more it will resist a backward flip).

    The real danger comes from drawbars, or other pulling points including the three-point hitch, that place the pulling point above the axle. All modern tractors I have seen put the drawbar below the axle for this reason.

    The bottom image in that sketch shows the flipping moment created when you have a pulling point above the axle. The top image shows a contraption that alleviates the problem on tractors with pulling points above the axle. If your pulling point is below the axle, none of this is an issue to begin with.
    Pretty full discussion in below threads:

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...eel-drive.html

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/o...back-flip.html
    This side of 40
    JD2010, Kubota L3450/FEL w SK QC, L2550 w FEL
    Mahindra 7520 [Pinky] /FEL w Skid Steer QC/w Tilt Tatch & BH, BX1500 [Mighty Mouse]
    IH37 Baler, Hesston Haybine, JD Rake
    Bushog, Flail, SK Tilt Tatch , KK tiller, Rhino rear blade, Post driver, post auger, chipper, pallet fork, Grapple/Loader Buddy, Homemade Splitter/DC Welder

  10. #20
    Veteran Member foggy1111's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    2,382
    Location
    NoCentral MN
    Tractor
    JD 3320 eHydro w/ 300CX Loader

    Default Re: Do I really need a drawbar??

    Quote Originally Posted by whirly View Post
    I'm in the market for a sickle mower but I've read that you need to
    attache some chains to the drawbar for it to operate properly. Problem
    is ... My tractor doesn't have a drawbar - see attached.



    Is there a way I could hook up a sickle mower without the drawbar. I have my fingers crossed
    Look into a Ford 501 Sickle mower. If you google this....you can see the hook up. I cant see where you would need a drawbar as long as you can secure the 3 point from side sway.
    3320 eHydro, 300CX Loader & 15 + great attachments

    You gotta mine allot of dirt to find a diamond.

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