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  1. #1
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6
    Location
    lawrenceburg, tn.
    Tractor
    ford 1720

    Default new member

    I need a box blade and would sure like some advice. I'm almost ashamed to post this part, what's the deal seams like everyone on the forum has a 4x4? I'm sad to say my tractor is only 2WD, but that's what I could afford. It is a 1988 model 1720 ford. I only have about 3 acres of ground and about 2 1/2 of them were in pines. I live in town and have to deal with city codes about where I can and can't build me a shop on my property, so I have cut the pines. The only place I could safely drop them was on my neighbors property, which left quite a mess. I promissed to fix their field and re sew it. Also I need to level the ground where my pines were. Can't afford a FEL so I figure a box blade would be the next best thing. Here's what I've found around here:
    Sunshine 5' used and blades have been replaced with staight metal -$250.
    Modern Manufacturing 6' New - $400.
    United 5' new (not set up for quick hitch) - $425.
    County Line sold by TSC 5' - $549. or 6' - $599.
    The county line is built out of the heaviest metal of all these and appears to be braced the best, but it is also the most expensive and money is tight!
    I Would appreciate any advice on this, and thanks in advance from a newbe.

  2. #2
    Bronze Member KPark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    99
    Location
    Adk High Peaks
    Tractor
    Mahindra 2615

    Default Re: new member

    Nothing wrong with 2wd. Using ground-engaging attachments, the front wheels don't get much of a chance for traction anyway.

    If your pines still have roots in the ground, you'll be in for some work regardless of your attachment. I suspect a dozer would be the best bet for leveling and taking out roots, but a box with rippers will do smaller ones. Get the toughest one you can, cause you'll be hitting hidden treasures a lot and putting stress on your box.

    You can also shoot off your mouth locally that you have the best attachment for doing that type of work, and dare them to show you a better way if they disagree. . . then just have them finish what they started (for a fee/bet/whatever).
    ________________________
    Due to recent economic uncertainties, the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off until further notice

  3. #3
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6
    Location
    lawrenceburg, tn.
    Tractor
    ford 1720

    Default Re: new member

    Thanks for the advice. I've tried to read all I can about box blades here on the forum, and it seems people don't like the TSC brand very much. Maybe they have different suppliers in different parts of the country? (I don't know).
    The one my store carries is labeled "County Line", and they said King kutter was the manufacturer. I know very little about tractors and equipment, but I've done welding since I was a kid in vocational school, I'm a full time mechanic and part time Custom Knife maker/Mechinist, so I do understand about design and bracing. All I know is it's the best built one I've been able to find in my area. Now if I just had $549. I'd be in buisness.Lol

  4. #4
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    813
    Location
    Northern Alabama
    Tractor
    2012 Kioti DK45SE, 1994 JD LX176

    Default Re: new member

    Tractor Supply used to sell the King Kutter brand. A few years ago, they decided to start selling thier own store brand, which they named County Line. Now they resell several different manufacturers under the County Line label, depending on the implement and the part of the country they're in. Most of the stores in the South resell King Kutter as County Line; the best way to tell is to look at the manual attached to the implement and see who warrants the implement. In addition, at least here in Alabama, the local stores can order directly from King Kutter so that you know you are getting a King Kutter implement.

    As an alternative to King Kutter, I would suggest you look for a used heavier duty blade on Craigslist. To be able to search multiple locations, you can use a search engine such as (SearchTempest - All of craigslist. One Search.). It requires a little setup, but you can customize it to include all locations within a radius of your location. A heavier duty box will be less likely to bend when you snag something solid, and weight is your friend with a box blade.

    Good luck with your search.

  5. #5
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6
    Location
    lawrenceburg, tn.
    Tractor
    ford 1720

    Default Re: new member

    Thanks guys,
    I will try to go by TSC today and take some measurements and pics of the blade. Maybe that will help determine how heavy built it is since I haven't seen many.

  6. #6
    New Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6
    Location
    lawrenceburg, tn.
    Tractor
    ford 1720

    Default Re: new member

    It has the thickest metal of the ones I've looked at but I didn't measure any of it. Since I don't have much to compare to, maybe y'all can tell me whether it's good bad or average, once I take some measurements. I don't know if I'm allowed to post pics or how to do it but i'll try if I can.

  7. #7
    Bronze Member Lebneh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    68
    Location
    North East
    Tractor
    John Deere 3720

    Default

    I believe tractor supply sells 2 versions on the box blades. 1 is labeled heavy duty and the other is regular duty. The heavier duty is more $ but is suppose to be made of heavier metal (particularly at the 3pt hitch).

    I bought a 6' regular duty (that's what my local TSC had in stock. I've used it for awhile.. I did break one of the teeth by other than that it's been great digging up stones and roots.

    The prices you mentioned I believe are for the regular duty. Mine is a king kutter.
    ~Lebneh

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