Slip clutch attachment to replace shear pin

[Gary_in_Indiana]

The manager at my local Tractor Supply Store was telling me about a small slip clutch attachment that was available for about $67, I think, that I could use between my PTO and the PTO shaft. I like the idea of a slip clutch far better than a shear pin for a couple of reasons--not having to carry tools and replace pins in the field and not being 'pushed' by the implement.

Now the questions. Has anyone else done this? What do you think about it now that you're using it? Is there anything else I ought to consider in adding one of these? If I do this should I replace the shear pin with something heavier?

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">...If I do this should I replace the shear pin with something heavier?... </font>

Yes... if your current shear bolt is Grade 2, then replace with Grade 5, if the shear is Grade 5 then change to Grade 8 ...

Once you replace the shear bolt with the slip clutch... you are no longer using it for that purpose... it's purpose now is Holding the slip clutch on with that "bolt"... that's the reason for the "upgrade"... you want the "slip clutch" to "slip" now and not to continue to replace shear bolts...

My KK in this thread, I added an aftermarket 2-plate slip clutch

(If I had left the shear bolt on ... I'd have to buy stock in the bolt company with this junk I'm cutting.../forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif)

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">...I think, that I could use between my PTO and the PTO shaft.... </font>

No... the slip clutch is always Mounted on the implement end... Not the tractor end...

 

[markie61]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( not being 'pushed' by the implement. )</font>
How are you being 'pushed'?
Mark

 

[normde2001]

Would you happen to be confusing a slip clutch with an overrunning clutch? That price sounds more like TSC's price for an "OR" clutch. Their slip clutch is usually over $100, and will not prevent you from being pushed by the implement.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Rather than worry about which grade bolt I have now, is there any reason not to put grade 8 in now without regard to which grade I'm replacing? I'm a little embarrassed at verbally putting the clutch on the wrong end of the shaft. I'm sure I was told the right way to do it. I honestly don't remember whether it's a 'slip clutch' or an 'overriding clutch' we were discussing. As to the "being pushed," it's a result of the momentum of the non-clutched PTO causing the tractor to lurch a bit further forward upon stopping than it would without an implement or with a clutched implement.

It sounds like the OR clutch might be superior for my purposes than a slip clutch. What are the differences and the pro's and con's of each?

 

[agcomike]

I'm looking at agri-supply's list of or clutches and slip clutches.. I'm needing a slip clutch for my tiller and a OR clutch for my mower and rotary cutter (soon to buy) which part # do i need i quess i need a 2 disc male 1-3/8 on one end female 1-3/8 on the other.. Looks to be a lot cheaper than tsc 35 vs 50 and 56.49 vs 92 ??
http://www.agri-supply.com/pdfs/ASC218B-22-31.pdf


Also is there any way of telling if your tractor has an internal OR clutch? I read a spec sheet for a 1030 MF and it supposidly has a OR clutch on pto but mine is a hino 2004 which i'm pretty sure it doesn't the finish mower pushes me around a little.. or it could be the drivetrain parts pushing?
/forums/images/graemlins/blush.gifthanks..

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color="blue">...a 'slip clutch' or an 'overriding clutch' ...</font>

Slip Clutch on implement end...

Overrunning Clutch on tractor end...

<font color="blue">...is there any reason not to put grade 8 in now without regard to which grade I'm replacing?... </font>

If the slip clutch is adjusted properly for your tractor... NO...

If the slip clutch DOESN'T SLIP, and you replaced a Grade 2 with a Grade 8 bolt... then you will introduce problems...

Whatever the "weakest link" is... will shear/break/torsion twist... even if that means "inside" your tractor PTO gear/shaft assembly... or external such as the implement gearbox or shaft assembly...

 

[RanchMan]

<font color="blue">Rather than worry about which grade bolt I have now, is there any reason not to put grade 8 in now without regard to which grade I'm replacing? </font>

I purchased the Eurocardan 32323 to convert my KK as you speak from Agrisupply. When it came in there was a small decal that specifically said "Only use Grade 5 bolts to attach clutch to mower" (or something to that effect). 2 G5 bolts came with it but one was too short (why I don't know) so I just got a longer G5 bolt. Put it together and never really looked back.

Not sure why they say "only" grade 5 but my assumption is that if the clutch is locked up for whatever reason, that is the "backup safety" to prevent damage to your equipment. Anyway, I used the G5 and haven't had any problem or need for anything stronger.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Use the grade bolt specified. Slip clutches will often lock up when left over the winter. You need to free up and re-tension them at the beginning of their use season to be sure they are working properly. Hopefully instructions on adjusting them come with them.