EEK!!! Did I Break my Stump Grinder!!!!!

[k0ua]

Actually, the best fix for that would involve a 20 ton press, and some way of holding that frame member up in postion to get in the press. Cold pressing it would be just fine for that small amount of bend.

Frankly it will work for 20 years just as it is, no big deal really to the funtion of the grinder..... But I understand wanting to get it back straight for sure.

A giant Cresent wrench or pipe wrench hooked over the metal likely also will bend it back 95% straight.

The pipe over the stud might help things, tho likely will bend the pipe, and would likely bend the metal closer to the frame - you would end up with a straight stud, but the flange would have a little ripple...

The torch and hammer will work well, but you lose a lot of paint that way, and will see the hammer marks.

Just beating on it with a hammer (without the heavy backing like an anvil) will likely bend it over back by the frame, not straighten out the ripple - much like the pipe on the stud will do. You'll never chase it down with everything straight, just 'better' with the pipe or hammer methods.

Similar to a press, if you remove the stud and place the bent part on a heavy (heavy!) metal surface and beat on the other side with a hammer you could get it nice and straight. This is basically doing the 'press' option, instead of a strong press you use small repeated beatings....Basically put a pices of metal on an anvil and hammer it straight. But your frame is too big to hold easily on an anvil, so you'd have to improvise something.

The press will do the nice gentle straightening and you can fuss as long as you want to get as close to perfect as you want, the torch & hammer will also get you all straight but a bit messy.

Would guess your grinder grabbed something hard & immovable, and it pulled so hard and fast it bent the ear a bit.

While that ear is not the best design for a solid 3pt stud, perhaps you had the best result if that is all that got damaged. If you beef it up, next time something happens, what will break then? A little bent metal might be the cheapest deal to fix up....

This is a tool, they get wear & abuse, stuff like this happens, it will work a long time no matter what, if anything, you do to straighted it out again.

--->Paul

I agree stuff happens, I would probably just get 2 sledge hammers and 1 extra guy, and a torch.. take off the pin. Heat up the area that is bent, have a guy stand on the inside with a 13 lb hammer and back up the bent area and you wang away with a 6 or 8 lb hammer after heating. If it cools, heat some more and bang some more until straight. Wirebrush grind off the burnt paint, and repaint. The double mounting ear sounds like a good idea but you will need a welder and the skill.. Wish I was there to help you. Hopefully you can find someone to help. Of all the things that could have happened, this is about the least worrisome one. You might get by with cold bending, but it could easily crack too, You might not see the crack and go on using it, and then fail completely later. My 2 cents.. You have been given lots of good ideas.. do what ever you think prudent. Good Luck.

James K0UA

 

[JohninCT]

No it's not broke just tweaked. If you do work with tractor implements its bound to happen. Turn the pin around and put a BAP(Big _ Pipe) on it and tweak it back. I agree the pins should face out on attachments.

 

[tungularafishcamp]

David, hope at least your neck is doing better today!
The guys have you all lined up on straightening it out but I would worry about it happening again.
If you do take it to a welding shop you might want to have them run a gusset on one side of the ear to stiffen and strengthen it up.

Or maybe this is a good time to look on CL for a little buzzbox?

Everyone be careful, I think Murphy is on a rampage!

 

[MossflowerWoods]

David, hope at least your neck is doing better today!
The guys have you all lined up on straightening it out but I would worry about it happening again.
If you do take it to a welding shop you might want to have them run a gusset on one side of the ear to stiffen and strengthen it up.

Or maybe this is a good time to look on CL for a little buzzbox?

Everyone be careful, I think Murphy is on a rampage!

Rick,

I love you man! I was shopping for tomorrow and had forgot a new pillow for my neck.

I owe you one brother!

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Or maybe this is a good time to look on CL for a little buzzbox?

Everyone be careful, I think Murphy is on a rampage!

I'm always looking for a buzz box, I want one... But not sure where I could use it...

Dealer says he will "fix it better than new"... He is pretty awesome.

I also think Murphy is rampaging...

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Not much to add to what is said and the advice given above. My pins are outboard rather than inboard as shown.

Makes me wonder how you applied that much load to the mount.....without impact or snagging a root???

(Remind me not to borrow you any tools. :laughing

OH! Now I feel bad! I won't come ask to borrow anything... sniff, sniff... ( )

I reversed the pins, the dealer just popped it right on the 3pt just like it was delivered. I still have the pallet, that is where I park it typically...

I'm going to let the dealer fix it, he is a great guy, he will.

I ground an old 12" cedar stump after moving the pins, just to test it out.

David

 

[Piston]

Well David, your first problem was trying to keep up with Foggy! :laughing: He probably has ground more stumps than anyone with a 3 pt grinder!

I wouldn't worry much about the fate of your stumpgrinder. It may be tough to fix without heat if you don't have torches though. If you try bending it back, with or without heat, I would find a pipe that fits over the pin to gain as much leverage as I could, I wouldn't use a pipe wrench or similar unless you have to, as the pipe will be a much more 'secure' fit and less likely to slip off and send you flying. If you have torches, it should be simple, just heat until red hot, be patient, and slowly bend back into position.

You've gotten a lot of use out of your stump grinder so far, and this is the first time this has happened, so I wouldn't be overly concerned with it.
It may be just "one of those things" that happen on occasion. I have a bullet proof grapple but have bent a portion of a grapple arm before, however I consider it just one of those things that happen, nothing some heat can't fix

I just looked up your manual... http://www.woodsequipment.com/uploadedfiles/products/manuals/man0495.pdf and it shows that you have the pins installed correctly, on the inside as you have them, for cat 1 (as long as you have the TSG50 that I just looked up?)

Also, have you checked your slip clutch? Maybe it's adjusted too tight? I loosened mine when I got my stump grinder and made sure it spun freely by hand, then tightened it accoring to the specs in the manual. For yours, the distance between the inside of the nuts, to the outside of the flange (with the spring being in the middle) should be 1.29 inches. If the stump grinder was sitting for a while (like over the winter) it could be frozen, however I don't think this is the first time your using it for the season right? Although it is possible it was never adjusted properly from the factory, mine didn't have any "wrench marks" on the paint before I adjusted it, which leaves me to believe it was never checked like it's supposed to be.

If you want to strengthen it more, I bet you could bring the whole unit to a welding shop and explain what you want to do, and they will give you the best idea on how to add extra support. However, I don't think is necessary and highly doubt it will be a recurring problem. :thumbsup:

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Well David, your first problem was trying to keep up with Foggy! :laughing: He probably has ground more stumps than anyone with a 3 pt grinder!

I just looked up your manual... http://www.woodsequipment.com/uploadedfiles/products/manuals/man0495.pdf and it shows that you have the pins installed correctly, on the inside as you have them, for cat 1 (as long as you have the TSG50 that I just looked up?)

Also, have you checked your slip clutch?

Piston,

You are right, I need years to catch up to Foggy... But I've got lots of stumps to grind just like him...

I did not even think to look at my manual, I have it attached to the grinder. yes I have a TSG-50. Yes I've already switched the pins like everyone said (I'll switch them back next time I remove it).

I need extra eyes here sometime when grinding. I notice the grinder does thinks I feel are "odd" sometimes. and I wish I could see better...

Here are a few observations...
1 - It grinds WAY smoother on the push swing vs the pull (it bucks on the pull and I almost never take a slice that way. or only a small one) the whole frame bucks and wobbles.

2 - at a certain depth (not that deep) pushin down lifts the 3pt frame off the ground destabilizing the whole shooting match.

3 - Random bucking. I'm not sure why, but sometimes the whole frame bucks and bounces on the push cut also, maybe due to density changes?

I am seriously thinking about adding that small backhoe weight to the 3pt frame for ballast for the tractor, as well as ballast for the grinder to stabilize it.

Which reminds me I have a question about 3pt operation I need to start a thread on that...

Thanks Piston,
Happy 4th, Be well.
David

 

[Piston]

David,
If it makes you feel any better, I'll NEVER catch up to Foggy :laughing:

After looking at your manual, I realize it's operated differently than mine. Mine will only cut in one direction, there are no teeth on the left side of the grinder, only the right (looking forward) so I thought you were operating it wrong, but your not....
It sounds like your doing everything right? Do other people have the same issues with it jumping around? Are you taking too much of a bite? Of course, it's always possible there is something wrong, or out of alignment with the stumpgrinder. Obviously your doing the right thing by bringing it back to the dealer and they will know a lot more than I could help you with.

As far as the pins, to me, it does make sense to have them on the outside, but the manual states inside so I guess that must be best, mine are also on the inside but then again, I don't have the same grinder as you.

Do you know if the clutch is adjusted properly?

It does sound like you could benefit from some extra weight on the frame to help keep it planted.

One more thing, do you have your 3pt hitch stabilizers nice and tight?

 

[Gary Fowler]

Pins to the inside or outside will not affect the operation of the unit. As long as your lift arms will fit, either way is OK. The reason for Cat 1 being to inside as they dont spread as wide as a Cat2 but if the lift arms spread wide enough, just leave them on the outside. It makes no difference to forces on the pins or operation, only hook up difficulties. If your arms are normally close together and when backing up to the equipment they naturally fall to the inside, then put the pins to the inside, otherwise outside if fine.