Rear Blade Ok I did it. Got a new landpride rear blade

[allen in texas]

The RBT3584... all hydraulic.
Backed up to it and picked it up, quick hitch worked great, hooked up 6 hydraulic lines, bled the air out of the cylinders and I'm ready to go.
My first project was to scrape off the spot where I keep all my other toys, er implements, and kill the weeds. I made a heck of a mess. took me about 8 passes to fix what I messed up. I dug holes, made piles of dirt, all kinds of silly stuff. But I finally got the hang of it and it looked pretty good. Next thing was to clean out my bar ditches. Weeds again ya know. Now I've got some distance to run and going slow I was able to set the blade where it did a pretty good job. No all my bar ditches are clean. I gotta find something else to play in now.
I'm glad I got the 7 footer. I had strongly considered the 8 footer but this 7 footer will shove my 5740 sideways real nice if I get too big a bite.
I didn't get the gauge wheel ($$$) but I think I'm going to build one. I think it would make it easy to scrape dirt roads.
I also need to get a couple of selector valves for my remotes. I have three so I had to disconnect my hydraulic top link to hook up all the hydraulics on the blade. I need to split two of my remotes in order to use everything...top link, swing, angle, tilt and gauge wheel. I need to take some pictures.

Pros on the blade
Well built,
heavy,
tight.
whole bunch of stuff

Cons on the blade.
It was ordered orange,
it showed up Landprides normal color.
Oh well, I wasn't going to send it back.

 

[TripleR]

That is a very nice blade, congratulations.:thumbsup:

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Pictures, where are the pictures? :confused3: Allen, you might want to try some skid shoes before you go to the trouble of building the gauge wheel setup. I was pleasantly surprised at how well they work with my LandPride RBT45108. Also you might try using your draft control when you are blading. I set mine for a very light draft setting and it works quite well. Just takes some expermenting to see what works best with your tractor and blade size.

Are you thinking about using electric diverters? If so I sell starter kits consisting of the diverter valve, mounting bracket, electrical line and button momentary switch all for $335+ shipping cost. Bolt them togeather and just use one of your OEM valves. I'm actually going to go with 3 diverters bolted togeather on my smaller tractor to end up with 4 rear remotes.

 

[allen in texas]

Man. I've got two Identical threads going here. Hard to keep up with them both. I accidentally double posted on account of a no good slow computer. anyway...
Brian, I'm going with manual diverter/selector valves. I may regret it but I can't really see the need for electric.
Also, base on what your said, I'm going to try the skid shoes. Simple and quick to build. I can see several applications where I could use them. eventually though, I still think I would need a tail wheel. All that being said, I'm gonna look at your valves.
Draft control. Don't have it and I really need it. I pull a plow on occasion and it would sure be nice not to have to yoyo the lift handle when the pulling gets tough. Oh well, it's 'ONLY" $600 or so to add it to my tractor. I forgot it when I ordered the tractor.

 

[Piston]

Allen
Congratulations on an awesome blade purchase! I'd like to say "awesome looking" but I didn't see the pic yet

Aside from throwing the 5740 around a little when you take a big bite, how does it handle it? Does it seem like it's a good match weight wise or a little too heavy? Can you still use it in the offset position far over to one side or will it pull the tractor too much?
I really like the looks of that blade and have a similar sized tractor which is why I'm asking. Do you know how much it weighs?

You can never have too many remotes!

 

[creekbend]

Congratulations.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Piston,as you know I have a Land Pride RBT45108 and use it behind my 12,000lb 75hp tractor. When the blade is offset 35",
forget about doing much fresh grading in virgin soil, at least not a deep cut. It just is not going to happen. Pulls the tractor around more than you can control it. Now finish grading and cleaning out ditches, that's a whole other story, works very well for those types of grading. This is all with the blade offset, get the thing directly behind you and it can move A LOT of material .

One of these days I'm going to get an RBT3584 for my smaller tractor. :drool: Maybe after I sell a few more "TnT" kits.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, I'm going with manual diverter/selector valves. I may regret it but I can't really see the need for electric.
Also, base on what your said, I'm going to try the skid shoes. Simple and quick to build. I can see several applications where I could use them. eventually though, I still think I would need a tail wheel. All that being said, I'm gonna look at your valves.
Draft control. Don't have it and I really need it. I pull a plow on occasion and it would sure be nice not to have to yoyo the lift handle when the pulling gets tough. Oh well, it's 'ONLY" $600 or so to add it to my tractor. I forgot it when I ordered the tractor.

Allen, nothing wrong with the manual diverters and waaaay less money. :thumbsup: I think that most of us are just to lazy, or don't know any different than the electric diverters. I think that you should be able to do a manual setup for about 100-150 for each unit vs $400-$450 for each electric setup. Good luck and don't bother looking up the valves on my website, I do not have them up yet.
Just something else that needs to get done in all of our spare time.

 

[Piston]

Piston,as you know I have a Land Pride RBT45108 and use it behind my 12,000lb 75hp tractor. When the blade is offset 35",
forget about doing much fresh grading in virgin soil, at least not a deep cut. It just is not going to happen. Pulls the tractor around more than you can control it. Now finish grading and cleaning out ditches, that's a whole other story, works very well for those types of grading. This is all with the blade offset, get the thing directly behind you and it can move A LOT of material .

One of these days I'm going to get an RBT3584 for my smaller tractor. :drool: Maybe after I sell a few more "TnT" kits.

Well, WHEN I ever upgrade my tractor you'll get another sale there! I was curious how these heavy duty blades work on the smaller tractors since I'd like to purchase one. As your aware, I don't like to buy the lighter duty implements but sometimes my current tractor just isn't 'enough' for the heavier ones, so I put it off until I get a larger tractor. (well that, and the fact that I have to save some money to build a new house) :laughing:

Allen, do you have any plans to use this blade on trails through heavily forested areas? I'm curious how shallow roots would effect the performance of it?

 

[allen in texas]

Hey Piston,
Answering last question first. no plans for the work in the forest. We give directions here based on the tree growing in the corner of the field, or at least the one that used to be there.
I'll get some pictures up today or tomorrow. I just haven't had time. been to busy playing, er I mean working with the blade. As far as how the tractor handles the blade...I think it does quite well. I've already figured out how to "drift" the tractor if I get too big a bite and with the blade swung to max on either side, getting too much is easy to do. With the blade straight and behind the tractor, I can load it up and run dirt over the top and just keep on going so the blade isn't to large for the tractor. Sorta the same thing that MtnViewRanch said. I have loaded tires and I'm considering adding a few hundred pounds of bolt on weight to the rear wheels too. I wanted to do that before I got the blade so now I have another reason. I think my tractor needs to be heavier for the horsepower it has.
The blade weighs about 750 pounds according to the literature. The tractor has no problem lifting it.

Speaking of MtnViewRanch, yeah I found out you don't show the diverter valves.