Replacement Mold Bar for grader blade

[AmericanTractorDriver]

Hello,

I am going tomorrow to look at a used grader blade listed on CL. No idea what the make/model is. Can't see the bottom of the mold bar in the photo (tall grass) but the seller says it works well. Do the cutter bars ever wear out? I haven't found replacements online so i am not sure if this is something to be concerned about (?) How tall should the blade typically be if it is not worn out?

Also what thickness should the whole moldbar (72") be at a minimum for use on a 50h tractor?

Thanks!

 

[Gordon Gould]

For a 50 hp tractor you are going to need a good strong and heavy rear blade. Take a look at the LandPride 35 series to get an idea of what you need. They have a good web site. For rear blade work you want the blade to be as heavy as the tractor can handle. You also want it to be wide enough to cover your tire tracks when angled. A 6' foot blade may not be wide enough to do that on a 50 hp tractor. Depending on your intended use for the blade you may be happier with a 7 or 8 footer. Of course if the price is right on the 6 footer that means alot but if it isnt rugged you will just bend it up with your 50 hp tractor in tough ground.
The cutting edges do wear. Slowly in dirt and faster in gravel. Most are 6" wide and 1/2" thick. Some are 5/8". Usually they wear unevenly, on the ends or in the middle. If it is good and flat where it contacts the ground it probably isnt wore much. Cutting edges are replacement parts and readily available. Figure $20 to $25 a foot ball park.

edit: If they bend it is usually around the 3 pt hitch connections and bracing and not the moldboard.

 

[AmericanTractorDriver]

Went and picked up the 72" grader blade this afternoon. It used to be yellow, maybe King Kutter? I've found pretty similar designs online, but not this exact one. I paid $100. The 1/2" x 6" cutter blade is almost new - just a little wear on one side on the outter 6 inches. The only other blemish on the machine is one of the two braces from the pivot point to the top-link pin is slightly bent. I wish I had a big press to bend it back straight...

It has the side-to-side off-set as well as the ability to tilt the blade up/down on the left or right.

I cleaned the whole machine, then brushed it with a wire wheel. Put a coat of paint on this evening. I have new plow bolts for the blade, grade 8 bolts for the rest, and new and lift pins.