Quick Hitches Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch

   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #1  

Gary_in_Indiana

Elite Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2002
Messages
3,388
Location
Fort Wayne, IN
Tractor
John Deere 4200 MFWD HST w/ JD 420 FEL w/ 61" loader bucket & toothbar & JD 37 BH w/ 12" bucket
I'm looking to buy a quick hitch/quick attach and have been considering the Deere I-Match or the Speedco version. I've found one difference is that the Speedco had an adjustable top link while the Deere does not.

Something else I learned about the Speedco is that it requires that each implement have a pair of bushings on the lower pins for them to fit properly. One pair is included but additional sets run about twenty bucks each. I don't know if the Deere I-Match works with the existing pins on my implements or requires the same/similar bushings. Does anyone else know?

Lastly, any opinions on which way to go and why? Thanks.
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #2  
Gary:

On the SpeeCo Hitch (or the TSC version), there are about 3 options:
1. The bushings that come with the Hitch (about $15 per pair at TSC). They have an enlarged end to keep the Quick Hitch from sliding off, and are held onto the Cat 1 hitch pins with a friction pin that drives through the keeper pin hole on the Cat 1 pins;
2. Slip-on Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings that are held on by the normal keeper pins in the end of the Cat 1 pins (under $3 per pair); or
3. Replace the Cat 1 hitch pins with Cat 2 hitch pins (about $2 each).

I have some of each on my various implements, and they all seem to work fine. The slip-on bushings are the simplest and cheapest, and easy to replace if you lose or damage one. They are available at TSC or just about anywhere that handles tractor parts/supplies. The Quick Hitch will work with just the Cat 1 hitch pins, but it has quite a bit of "slop" and would probably cause more wear on the hitch pins or the Quick Hitch hooks.

Rather than the adjustable hook on the top, I use the Y-shaped adapter supplied with the Quick Hitch, which is still a lot easier than doing without the Quich Hitch. With my variety of new and used implements, only 1 - my Bush Hog SBX600 Box Blade is "truly Cat 1 Compatible" and has enough clearance below and behind the top link pin to use the hook /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. The adapter allows me enough flexibility to hook up to just about any 3-pt implement I have tried.

Sorry I can't comment on the I-Match. I haven't studied one up close.
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #3  
GARY: I tried one of the quick hitches, but it aws not quick OR easy... I would only fit 1 of 4 impliments and even that one the top link would not release after attachment. I was using a Tiller (which is too narrow for QH) , Finish mower (which the top link would not fit into and the pins were too far to the inside to hold it correctly.) A 6' TSC box Blade, (which fit pin wise but would not release the top link hold with out severly tilting the box blade backwards to let it loose.)

anyhow I would try it on EVERYTHING when you first get it home to see if there are any MAJOR missalignments right away. Try to measure you're impliments first to see if they are close enough in size to fit it.

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #4  
Did you make any decisions on this yet? I am in the same delimma right now. My new B7800 was delivered 5 days ago and on Saturday I had the unpleasant task of hooking up my new Woods BB60. I can't believe what a task it is to do this. Why don't they just design the lower 3pt arms with claws!
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #5  
Gary,

Why not stay with the I-Match hitch. It meets the SAE standards for the hitch portion and your First Choice (made by Midwest) Box Blade meets the SAE standards for the implement, so that is a perfect match. In your future implement purchases if you stick to those that meet the standards (Frontier, Midwest, etc.) you will be all set. The only unknown is how close your rear finish mower will come to fitting the I-Match. It would be an easy thing to try out by just borrowing the I-Match frame from your dealer for an hour or so.

JackIL
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Brooster,

I'm embarrassed to admit I've procrastinated to complete inertia on this. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Someone here even suggested adjustable arms instead of the quick attach altogether. I wish I could be more help. Sorry. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Jack,

I like the idea of "borrowing" an I-Match (or a Speeco, for that matter) to see what will and won't match up with it. I'm on real good terms with my TSC store here so I know I could work out something with them on the Speeco.

I might be able to do something similar with the new JD dealer around here (actually old dealership, new owners who are existing dealers elsewhere).

I don't doubt my box blade ought to work. I even think my finish mower ought to since it's a Woods and they make the Frontiers for JD.

The rest of your suggestion is a bit problematic as I've already acquired a tiller, rotary mower, carry all and bale spear which are neither Frontier nor First Choice nor Midwest. I was offered a great deal on three King Kutter items and jumped on it. I bought the bale spear at an auction and can't begin to tell you who made it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I suppose, if push came to shove, I could always do a little cutting and welding on the bargain implements to make them into the SAE standard, couldn't I? If I do end up going that route, where would I go to find the SAE standards of which you spoke? Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #8  
Gary,

I don't have a copy of the SAE standards right at hand, but your simplest solution is to just go out and measure your First Choice (Midwest) box blade hitch. It is correct. The critical dimensions are: Inside spacing of draft link pin shoulders (this is the width the quick-coupler has to "swallow," and the mast height which is the vertical distance of the center line of the pin which will couple to the coupler from the horizontal line through the draft pins. NOTE that this top coupler pin is BELOW the normal upper hole where you would attach a top link from a 3 point hitch. NOTE further that there must be open clearance space below this pin so that when you raise the coupler vertically, the top claw hook will have access to the pin. If this explanation seems difficult to follow, just go out an look at your box blade.

With regard to your Woods RFM being the same as a green version Frontier, be forwarned that there may be a difference. Woods adapted their mower to Deere specs (which included the quick coupler dimension specs) but they did not necessarily change dimensions to meet the coupler specs on their own products (painted yellow-gold). Certainly on models already in dealers hands there were no changes made.

This is probably a good place to try to clarify a point about the geometry of the SAE standard for quick coupler implement dimensions. The mast height to the quick coupler pin is shorter than the standard mast height for use without a quick-coupler. This means that you will see 2 locations near the top of the mast. The top is for use without a QC and the next one down is for use with a QC. This also helps to explain why some quick couplers have an adjustable top link. They are trying to adapt to just any old implement that was designed without paying strict attention to top mast height for a QC. Since most implement manufacturers did not use a standard mast height, the QC manufacturer had to provide some means for adjustment.

Since you are now a fully trained expert welder, you can remake all of your non-standard implements to match the coupler dimensions for your First Choice Box Blade. Then in the future if you purchase additional implements you can select from those that follow the standard or take the torch and welder to those that don't. If I were in your situation, I would opt for going with the SAE standard I-Match right now.

A possible source for the detailed SAE specs for the coupler and implement dimensions might be available from Jim McCuan at Midwest.

Good Luck.

JackIL
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #9  
Hi Gary

I've got both the Imatch and the Speeco, In therory the Speeco with the adustable top link sounds good but when you have to get off the tractor and hook up the top or unbolt the hook to install the top link it is no longer a quick hitch. It is just as easy to use the normal 3 point hitch. In my opinion the best route is to pick a hitch and modify all your implements to work with it, so all you have to do is back up and pick em up. Most of my implements are Imatch compatible so that is the route I took. It seems that the top hook on the Speeco doesn't stick out quite as far as the Imatch and the bolts that hold the hook on the Speeco interfear with most of my implements. If you can make the Imatch work with your implements I think it is just a little bit better built. The Imatch also requires bushings, the Speeco bushings work just fine with the Imatch, I pay about 10 bucks a pair at the local Fleet Farm store.
later
Phil
 
   / Implement bushings for quick attach/quick hitch #10  
JackIL,
This is from a post JimMc made on 3/3/03 about the quick hitch measurements
<font color="blue"> The implement standard is 15" vertical from center of lift pin to center of toplink pin. Depending on which variation you are looking at the flange to flange distance on the lift pins is either 26 or 26.5, so if your inside of hook to inside of hook distance is 27" you'll be able to connect reliably. </font>

Hope this helps

Jerry
 
 
 
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