Selecting a Box Blade

   / Selecting a Box Blade #11  
My 18 horse I had was perfect with a 4' box blade, anything bigger I would think you wouldn't have enough power to pull a full load, especially with any kind of incline.
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade
  • Thread Starter
#12  
If your wheels are 42", you may still want to look at 48" boxes. They would give you 3" extra a side which is really helpful when you are getting close to things as well as being able to see the edges easier. My tractor is 72" wide and I"m sooo happy I went with the 78" for these reasons.

Yes, it is a bit harder to pull, but I think the difference will be neglagable.

Excellent point. I am going to stop by a couple places tomorrow and see what is available.

Thanks so much for the help.

John
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #13  
Yeah, 42-48" would be ideal.
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #14  
FWIW...I have never had any problem using my 5' (Bushhog) CBX60 boxblade with my 17 HP Kubota...even with a full load of wet crusher run...regardless of the slope...

I got it new from a Kubota dealer for less than $500...it weighs 280#'s...I have added a bolt on tool/weight box...when I need more weight I put 4- 5 gallon buckets of gravel in the box...

I'm still trying to work out an easy way to add hydraulic power to the scarifiers...
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade
  • Thread Starter
#15  
I am lucky enough to be within driving distance of Everything Attacments. I am planning to head up there on Saturday and see if I can come home with an appropriate blade. Sound like a plan? Would I need to bring the tractor? Seems like they shouldn't need to see it but would it help?

I took a trip this afternoon to the local JD dealer and they wanted to charge $250 over what they quoted on Saturday. I was disappointed and decided to further explore my other options.

John
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #16  
I think you would want a 48" box blade. Before you go looking at box blades park your tractor on a level surface. Lower the lift arms and measure how high they are from the ground. Then when you go looking at box blades you can measure where the lift pins are to make sure it will be on the ground and you can get a idea of how high it will lift it. I'm thinking you will want a box blade for a compact tractor not a subcompact.
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #17  
Thanks for your advice. If I understand how a land plane works, I don't think it will have the ability to work the road as I need. I assume the land plane slides over the road, shaving off high points, much like a plane for wood does. Is that correct? I think I am going to need more shaping ability than that.

Appreciate your input. What I am hearing is: light to medium duty box at the width of the rear wheels.

John


I have a 5' rearblade, 48" landplane and 48" boxblade that I use with my garden tractor that is the same weight as your Satoh. The landplane and rearblade are far more useful for most driveway work than the boxblade in this sized machine. That has been my experience anyway, I can touch op the edges and crown with the rearblade then smooth the drive with the landplane.If you pitch the landplane forward it will cut very aggressively probably as much as you can pull anyway.

I don't have a picture handy for the rearblade it is a 5' Tractor Supply cheapy but here are pictures of the 48" Cammond boxblade and my custom 48" landplane.
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #18  
Landplane for road maintenance is the easiest to use and get good results. If you could find one with scarifiers teeth on the front like the boxblades, it would be the perfect tool.
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Well, I lucked out yesterday and got the chance to borrow a friends United 48" box blade. Interesting results... hopefully mostly from my inexperience and lack of knowledge.

With the scarifiers down, stopped the tractor cold. More an anchor than a blade. I flipped the scarifiers around and just used the blade. While it worked I had to stop, lift the blade and reset it often, with next to nothing in the box, becasue the tractor would start slipping. I have fixed my diff lock problem, so even with the diff locked, not what I expected.

I "spoke" with Bill from Valley Power today and he said my tractor would be best with a rear blade. If it stops raining tonight I may get the chance to try out a borrowed rear blade.

The issue I have is that my "driveway" and "road" is what most would consider a 4wd trail. I am lucky in that, but need to keep it passable. Hopefully give it a shot tonight or tomorrow.

Thank you for all the input and advice. I will keep you updated.

John
 
   / Selecting a Box Blade #20  
Well, I lucked out yesterday and got the chance to borrow a friends United 48" box blade. Interesting results... hopefully mostly from my inexperience and lack of knowledge.

With the scarifiers down, stopped the tractor cold. More an anchor than a blade. I flipped the scarifiers around and just used the blade. While it worked I had to stop, lift the blade and reset it often, with next to nothing in the box, becasue the tractor would start slipping. I have fixed my diff lock problem, so even with the diff locked, not what I expected.

I "spoke" with Bill from Valley Power today and he said my tractor would be best with a rear blade. If it stops raining tonight I may get the chance to try out a borrowed rear blade.

The issue I have is that my "driveway" and "road" is what most would consider a 4wd trail. I am lucky in that, but need to keep it passable. Hopefully give it a shot tonight or

Thank you for all the input and advice. I will keep you updated.

John

I used to know a Bill from Valley Power Products in Roanoke ,Va in the 80s I wonder if it is the same one.
 
 

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