Drag scraper vs box scraper

[monkeybreath]

I visited a NH dealer today in my journey towards tractorville - to see what they had and could put together, prices etc. I told him I wanted a FEL and box scraper . . . When we were discussing uses I had for a tractor, and I mentioned maintaining rolling roads on my rolling foothill property, he suggested I would have better luck with a drag scraper than with a box scraper. He indicated that with a box scraper it would be going up and down with the tractor - and it would have to be constantly raised and lowered to fit the situation. But he indicated with a drag scraper with wheels behind the box, it could lowered by hydraulics and would do a much better job leveling a road or area. Their large and level lot he indicated was maintained with a drag scraper. I did a search here but "drag scraper" did not show up. He showed me one and what he said seemed to make sense. The drag scrapers do not have scarifiers, however. I was assuming I would take the high spotts out of my roads with a box scraper and drag the dirt to the low spots and so on. But I am anything but experienced. Anyway, does any of this make sense ? (he also tried to talk me out of HST but that is another issue)

 

[JohnMiller3]

This scraper is 14' by 4'... ya mean something like this...? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Hey, I'm dying to know... Two things...

How did you come about your screen name...? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

After 17 years... when are ya gonna get a tractor...? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[monkeybreath]

The scrapers I looked at were 6 and 7s, about $1500 though. Screen name a family joke of sorts - I used to tease my daughters when they were younger that I didn't want to eat peanuts because they gave you monkeybreath - so whenever we eat anything a bit interesting we tease each other. I am so anxious to get a tractor -after reading these posts each night and making lists of my projects that I am afraid that the momentum of want is going to over run the inertia of common sense and it a fit of impatience I am going to toss aside all of the wisdom I am picking up here each night. A little learning is a dangerous thing, so I must be patient and keep learning. And when I do get my tractor, I am going to count on all of you to keep me out of trouble with it.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

I would use a blade or box with a tailwheel on either one.
Since it's behind the implement the wheel keeps it higher in the low spots, but connects with the high spots. Since the wheel will be lower there.
Might talke a little fore thought for your runs.
After a couple of runs it's all level.. hth.

Larry

 

[EddieWalker]

My Century dealer has a thing called a Grade-All. It has two cutting edges and glides along the surface. Kind of like a sled with 3 point attachment. I think he said the cutting edges are half and inch below grade.

I saw him do a section of his yard with it and I'm very impressed. The first cutting edge cuts the high spots, the material goes over the blade then the second cutting edge smooths things out. It looks like something that would be very simple to make, but I bet the angles have to be just right.

They come in many sizes, this one was 7 feet and cost $1095.

 

[Richard]

A little learning is a dangerous thing, so I must be patient and keep learning.

You said it.. lol... when I first started reading here, I thought that a B series would be wonderful, the more I read, I then realized maybe a L-3010 would fit the bill... then I learned more, and realized the L-48 "might" fit the bill... now that I see our issues more clearly, I realize an M series would be my cat's meow. (dang that cat anyway)

Richard

 

[Bird]

The ones John Miller posted pictures of might be a little heavy for the size tractors most of our forum members use. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif But, yes, that type is really nice. One of my farmer neighbors had some leased hay fields that were only accessible by dirt roads that got in pretty bad shape after almost every rain. So he had an 11' one he used behind a 100hp Deere to maintain those roads. He was also the fire chief for our volunteer fire department, so when we built a new fire station, and had several truckloads of roadbase delivered for the parking lot, he did the larger open areas and I did the tight spots, corners, and next to the building with my little Kubota. They're a fine implement if you have one matched to your tractor size.

 

[Taylortractornut]

Ive built a few smaller drag scrapers for friends and used some in haul road maintenance. They re pretty good, but if not matched to the tractor can be a bit difficult to handle and they arent suited for tight spots. I built a 10 footer to go with a 5000 Ford and had to use it to lay the base for a ladies drive way. I had to back the wheels into the garage then star rather than back up to the door with a regualar box blade.
THey do work well for feild leveling and road maintenance. The biggst ive used was 22 feet wide and had to be towed sideways down the road on its own dolly. Take care Taylor Lambert

 

[Gil]

Maybe I missed how much road you are trying to scrape, but I have found that a regular box blade and a tractor with draftcontrol works wonderful. I've smothened driveways of great length and lots of ups and downs, that the draftcontrol followed flawlessly. Left a very smooth ride and truely pleased homeowners. Draft Control is truely worth the money.

I wish you well
Gil

 

[MarkV]

As nice as those are I believe I would stick with a boxblade unless I was working roads commercially or had an unusual situation. Given that they are 3x the cost of a good box and limited to more open space with lots of room for maneuverability I think the boxblade is more versatile. Now if $1500 were not a limiting factor, I would look at a med. duty boxblade for around $500 and add Top and Tilt to my tractor for around $1000. After a small learning curve you can do some great roadwork with that combination IMHO.

MarkV