Rotary Cutter Tail wheel questions

   / Tail wheel questions #1  

HotTommy

New member
Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
2
Location
Dadeville, AL
Tractor
2004 Jinma JM 284
I am brand new to the tractor and attachments world. I recently bought a used rotary cutter of unknown make and model. Here's a picture:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2WkSnqaouQlXQZzsi5u8vFjHFsbGa5jL4TKeRCntE-I?feat=directlink

It's clear that the tail wheel is missing bushings or bearings or something to help it work well. Forgive me if I don't speak the language correctly yet, but here's how I will describe it. The vertical rod at the top of the tail wheel fork is about 1.5" OD and about six inches long. It turns inside a pipe shaped piece that is about 1-5/8" ID. That large gap allows the fork rod to wobble around. When the cutter is elevated, the wheel fork assembly slides down revealing a roughly 3/8" gap between a plate on the fork assembly and the pipe piece that is attached to the cutter. When the cutter is lowered, there is nothing between the fork assembly and the pipe piece to reduce friction and allow the wheel to track easily.

I need help figuring out what parts I am likely missing.
 
   / Tail wheel questions #2  
On entry level cutters, there's typically nothing between the male (stub) and female (pipe) components except grease. Normal wear and tear - aggravated by insufficient maintenance - usually results in the pipe getting wallowed out. Commensurate wear on the stub eventually results in the 3/8" gap you now see. Solution is new pipe and/or stub. Simple cut and weld job at any machine shop. But assuming they replace the pipe, make sure they tap a hole with the correct threads to accept a new grease zerk.

//greg//
 
   / Tail wheel questions #3  
If you don't want to spend alot of money on a used cutter (like me) you can get some 1 1/2" flat washers to take alot of that slack out. I did it to mine quite a few years ago and it works just fine. Still has a little slop in it but very much improved and tracks fine. Keep it greased real well - everytime you go to use it for the day and it will last you a long time. Those tailwheel yokes aren't cheap nor are the replacement tubes to weld onto the assembly unless you just want to do it. I got my washers at NAPA.
 
   / Tail wheel questions #4  
For clarification, the washer method is only effective if the washers are welded to both the top and the bottom of the tube. Soft steel (GR2) should not be used, as it will wallow even faster than did the tube. Recommend minimum GR5, GR8 if possible.

//greg//
 
   / Tail wheel questions #6  
I sell the complete tail wheel and fork for $120. Just replace it and go to cutting.
Jeremy
 
   / Tail wheel questions #7  
Here is a link for tailwheel parts including a new fork.
Unfortunately - based upon the OP description - your link doesn't have the vertical tube section that's almost certainly at fault.

//greg//
 
   / Tail wheel questions
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Unfortunately - based upon the OP description - your link doesn't have the vertical tube section that's almost certainly at fault.

//greg//

Bingo. Now that I've taken it apart, it's apparent that Greg's analysis is on the money. I'm not a frequent, heavy user of this piece, so I'll make do until I can round up the parts needed to replace the worn ones. I appreciate the advice regarding the steel quality.
 
   / Tail wheel questions #9  
My JD MX-7 cutter's tailwheel did not want to swivel in one direction when I turn. I removed the clamp that sets the height of the tailwheel on the tube and the clamp was very worn on one side, preventing the wheel from swiveling. I was surprised that there is no bearing or bushing between the clamp and the tube it rests and rotates on. I just happen to have a bearing of the correct 1 1/2 inch diameter and am going to put in on when I replace the clamp and see if that makes the wheel swivel a little easier and prevent it from wearing. Seems like a poor design to me.
 
   / Tail wheel questions #10  
So, went to grease my tail wheel.

Discovered bearings, seals, all messed up, need complete replacement .... have started looking for bearings, seals locally.

However, search led me to discover this site....huge set of drawings and parts numbers, etc. for many brands of mowers, etc... I don't know about cost, but these folks seem to understand all parts regarding mowers, shredders, bush hogs, and the like. It's Modern Ag Parts in Beaumont, Texas. Hmm....looks like they have all sorts of bearings for every type of farm implement. I'm not pushing them...just ran into an easy to understand list of parts and drawings....hope this helps somebody some day.
 
 
 
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