New to me Flail Mower

   / New to me Flail Mower #1  

Agent Blue

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Mar 14, 2008
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608
Looking on CL for a used flail mower found a 7'6" Mott ( at least that is what the owner suspects ) for $100.00. It needs welding in a couple places and some flails are missing ( but 90% of them look in good condition ) . For this amount I can do a few bearing and cutter replacements to see if this style cutter works out for my application. Should be unloaded here today and will snap a couple pictures. Now don't expect the Mona Lisa for poverty prices !
* It weighs half a ton so it should be worth its cost in scrap if all else fails.
 
   / New to me Flail Mower #2  
Your mower is probably a 7 footer,
please be sure to post a lot of images
so we can help you with it.


I look forward to seeing your mower.:cool2:
 
   / New to me Flail Mower
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Flail Mower 013.jpgFlail Mower 012.JPG
You are right. I must have been measured from end to end to come up with 7'6". It needs a little tlc and the rear roller is missing but I have wheels from a Harley style rock rake I plan to make brackets for and use. The cutters are not too bad but could use another set or sharpening. Bearings are tight and the gearbox does not leak and rotates freely without any noticeable bad spots. This is a good cheap configuration I can get in shape and see if this is the combination I should go with. If it works out I will be buying a new version in the future. There are available to rent so a person could see how they react as far as tall grass and speed. My Bush Hog rotary cutter does not distribute the grass or cut it up fine.
 
   / New to me Flail Mower #4  
Yea!!!!


Now, I have to tell you that you need the rear roller,
as the failmower does not have a second set of wheels
in front at are adjusted by a screw adjustment tied into
the front wheels-one wheel will not be enough to support it
as there is too much weight.


About the side slicers-the finish mower knives, You can sharpen
them using a tabel belt sander but the knives will get hot and its
time consuming; thats why I bought a Wen Wet Well Grinder
for knives and scizzors as its time saver(and a side slicer knive saver)
because you can set the angle of the knive blade- I think mine are 30
degrees and the the water cooled grinding drum will not heat up the
sharp edge and your fingers.

The rear roller maintains the rigidity of the mowers box constrction
and also aids in preventing scalping because the width of the mower
is prevented from droping into dips and holes that could cause scalping.

I realise its your money but you do need the rear roller and the mounting arms
if they are missing because the wheels will not prevent the mower from dropping from
side to side and scalping the ground if a wheel drops.
 
   / New to me Flail Mower
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I will try the wheels first... than maybe a section of heavy pipe with a center support ( free in my salvage pile ) for a roller. I like experimenting with older equipment to see if the process will work to my satisfaction. I think it is better than buying one for two grand and trying to resell without losing your shorts. Besides it is a long winter and a reasonably cheap venture.
 
   / New to me Flail Mower
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Leonz;
What do you think about this one ?????? Been after this for a while. Three years old mowing less 30 acres in its life. Never fails.. buy one and the orig you wanted comes up for sale. Fixing the 7 footer is not on the short list today. Alot of iron as this thing is HEAVY !!!! ( and it has a back roller ).
 

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   / New to me Flail Mower #7  
Congratulations!!,

You have a new to you flailmower that you can buy parts for and you will be able to do a lot of mowing

Be sure it is locked up in the garage and the guard dogs are chained to it with warm blankets, MRE's, beer etc. and the motion sensor lights are turned on to detect intruders!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now all you have to do is change the gear oil and replace the rubber trash skirt and check to see if the V belts are starting to check and the rubber is breaking apart-if so you need to get new kevlar belts at TSC, Menards, NAPA, PEP BOYS etc.

You will have an easy time of it knocking down the dead brush after the first heavy frost.

Be sure to order a new trash flap and reinstall it on the mower, or you should ask the previous owner what happened to all the mounting hardware-carriage bolts, steel strap used to hold the rubber flap in place and the the carriage bolts.

My fathers 25A came with the rubber flap as standard equipment just as the 370 does.


I love it when a plan comes together.

Only 17,985 mowers to go!
__________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:
 
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   / New to me Flail Mower
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I have seen them advertised without a flap so I thought it was an option. I do have a 6" 7' flap and mounting hardware from a Finn rock rake that may bolt in place. The cutters are 3/16" material and in good condition. I was thinking of touching them up but no dull edges present. Best leave well enough alone. It was stored inside a cement floor building. The belt is ok showing no signs of cracks or damage. Case oil looks good but with moisture it will be changed. Owner lost the operators manual. I assume the gearbox gets 80-90 but I will check with the Deere dealer. It should provide years of trouble free service.
 
   / New to me Flail Mower #9  
I have seen them advertised without a flap so I thought it was an option. I do have a 6" 7' flap and mounting hardware from a Finn rock rake that may bolt in place. The cutters are 3/16" material and in good condition. I was thinking of touching them up but no dull edges present. Best leave well enough alone. It was stored inside a cement floor building. The belt is ok showing no signs of cracks or damage. Case oil looks good but with moisture it will be changed. Owner lost the operators manual. I assume the gearbox gets 80-90 but I will check with the Deere dealer. It should provide years of trouble free service.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________

WONDERFULL NEWS,


The last thing you want to do is use bench grinder as it will ruin hardened side slicers or cup knives!!
All you need to do now is purchase a wet well scizzor and knive grinder- I think WEN still makes them,
to sharpen the knives and you will be set for many years for mowing-most of my side slicers are over
20 years old and still cut very well.


The rubber belting is conveyor belt belt and very tough to deal with unless you have punches specifically
for belting. I always worry about not having skirting on a flail or other mower because it does two jobs-
slows down the chaff flow and also prevents the ejecting of any debris that is carried up and over the flail
mower rotor.

Be sure to dig out the grease fittings under the belt guard and the rear roller as they are easy to overlook,
My dads 25A had at least one under the belt guard.

Happy mowing
 
   / New to me Flail Mower
  • Thread Starter
#10  
That is why I asked the owner for the operators manual..( which he lost ).....to find the grease fittings that are sometimes hidden. I noticed a hole in the belt guard but with a flash lite could not see any fittings. I will just remove it and probably find one huddled in the back. Nortec had a great idea... they placed small red arrows to the grease fittings with sticky adhesive plastic.
Checked to find a pdf version on the computer but no luck as of yet. The deere dealer is about 55 miles away so I won't get there soon.

Would a 4 1/2" hand grinder create that much heat to touch up the cutters ? They are pretty thick material. Other wise I have to remove 66 cutters.
 
 
 
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