Questions about Mott LB flail mower

[SwingOak]

I recently bought a hammer knife mower for my Cub, it turns out it's a Mott FHC. It mows pretty well, even with dull, rusty knives:

It doesn't fit my lo-boy very well, I can't lift it off the ground very much without the PTO shaft hitting the fast hitch cross bar, and the PTO drive line angle is way too sharp. Exactly the reasons (as I've discovered) Mott made the LB model for the lo-boy.

In doing a little research, it looks like the only difference between the two models is the driveshaft and driveshaft tube length, and possibly the driveshaft mounting height. I think I can modify the mount so that I can convert the mower to work on either a standard Cub or a lo-boy. I would just need to make a new driveshaft, driveshaft tube, and add another mounting bracket. Shouldn't be too difficult, I think.

Can anyone with a Mott LB share the driveshaft tube length (between flanges) and driveshaft tube centerline height? Thanks!

 

[leonz]

I recently bought a hammer knife mower for my Cub, it turns out it's a Mott FHC. It mows pretty well, even with dull, rusty knives:

It doesn't fit my lo-boy very well, I can't lift it off the ground very much without the PTO shaft hitting the fast hitch cross bar, and the PTO drive line angle is way too sharp. Exactly the reasons (as I've discovered) Mott made the LB model for the lo-boy.

In doing a little research, it looks like the only difference between the two models is the driveshaft and driveshaft tube length, and possibly the driveshaft mounting height. I think I can modify the mount so that I can convert the mower to work on either a standard Cub or a lo-boy. I would just need to make a new driveshaft, driveshaft tube, and add another mounting bracket. Shouldn't be too difficult, I think.

Can anyone with a Mott LB share the driveshaft tube length (between flanges) and driveshaft tube centerline height? Thanks!

About your Mott Mower; DO you really need the fast hitch cross bar when mowing-if it is the one placed between the lower links?


The two other issues are that the rear roller is gone and the 2 side skids are missing.

Your mower needs some work and parts. the rear roller is what sets the cutting height,
I think some of these mowers had wheels if they were not hung under the lowboy with chains too.

 

[SwingOak]

The roller is there - you just can't see it in the picture. The cross bar keeps the fast hitch draw bar from twisting when the mower is raised, so I think I probably need it.

The bearing for the idler pulley is shot, it has a few cracks in the mower body that need welding, and it has some of the worst welds on it I've ever seen that will really need to be ground out & re-welded. I can easily make a new driveshaft tube & driveshaft, at least as long as it's keyed and not a spline. I can machine a spline too, but that's a lot more complicated.

 

[SwingOak]

So, nobody has a Mott LB flail they can measure for me? Guess I'll have to figure it on myself!

 

[leonz]

Sorry I did not think of theis earlier but you could call wengers in Myerstown, PA they might have one.

 

[SwingOak]

I know, this is an old post, but here's an update - I pulled apart the driveline yesterday and was going to replace the input shaft oil seal, but would have had to destroy the U joint spider to get the yoke off. So I just cleaned the gear case out and packed it with high temp grease. That oil seal might not keep oil it, but it should keep grease in. Turns out the belt idler was just loose in the pulley halves, so I staked it in. The pulley shaft is a spline, so I'm going to hold off on shortening or changing it. I raised the driveline up about 4" just by bolting on a couple of steel plates. Works pretty well. I also have a small farm in Wisconsin now, so I guess I should change my user name!

 

[SwingOak]

I ordered a full set of fine cut knives with some extra clevises and cotter pins from Flailmaster - they have very reasonable prices and everything is made right here in the USA. Gotta love it!