Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[LD1]

Nice work Big D...

As jenkinsph said, there isnt much curve at all there, I can see that blade being really flimsy before you beefed it up.

Blades that dont have any backbracing (like you added) only have the curve to give them strength. Without much curve....:confused2:

A small tractor like yours would have no trouble bending a blade even if it was made with 1/2" plate if there is no curve. Plate steel isnt strong in the direction used for a blade. They need either curve or a strongback to give depth for strength.

 

[devildog1]

Steve, those braces will help a lot. But you know that it is just a temporary thing before you get the LP RBT3584.

Brian, I agree 100%, the LP3584 is a Brute of a blade don't believe you could bend it very easily. It took me three different blades over the years to finnily get it, but now it will be my last blade I buy(Ihope).
DevilDog

 

[deere5105]

Picked up blade this evening. Straightened moldboard after removing cutting edge. Straightened 3pt hitch and boxed in bottom. Straightened bend in 3pt top link area. Wound up using 8"tubing split and installed across back of moldboard. Replaced cutting edge with used grader blade bolted on.

Next phase sanding and painting. This phase will take me a little while.

 

[deere5105]

View attachment 285164

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks good, very substancial I think. A little suprized how he handled the tapered ends, I would have tapered down to about 1 1/2 inches and then used a piece of heavy flat bar torched to the same curve as the moldboard fitted against the tubing. This would have been a full height stiffener rib.

Doesn't really matter now because that blade will last you a long time now and be tough enough.:thumbsup:

 

[LD1]

looks sweet.

but no pics of where you boxed the underside

 

[deere5105]

Looks good, very substancial I think. A little suprized how he handled the tapered ends, I would have tapered down to about 1 1/2 inches and then used a piece of heavy flat bar torched to the same curve as the moldboard fitted against the tubing. This would have been a full height stiffener rib.

Doesn't really matter now because that blade will last you a long time now and be tough enough.:thumbsup:

Was not quite what I expected, but think it will be adequate. This gentleman takes a lot of pride in his work and I try to be sensitive to this and not be overly critical. I would have preferred the grader blade have been cut square before attaching, but the function is not affected.

 

[deere5105]

looks sweet.

but no pics of where you boxed the underside

Ran short on time yesterday evening and didn't get to take all the pictures I would have liked to. It may be this weekend before I get time to look over more closely in daylight.

 

[deere5105]

looks sweet.

but no pics of where you boxed the underside

Here are pictures of bottom side of 3pt hitch.

Went back over drive today and this time it cut right through places where last time it skipped over. Could be new blade or extra weight or combination of both.

 

[LD1]

Very nice and very well done. There are only two things left I would do, and they will cost you LESS than $5 bucks.

Fill in the end of the main beam, and fill in where the nut for the pins are.

I would do this with a simple can of expanding foam. It is cheap, and can easily be removed to get at the pin nut if need be. This will prevent bees. I tell you, it is a rude awakening when hooking up the blade and have a swarm of mad bees coming after you:confused2: