Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[sdkubota]

My tractor is 5' wide and my blade is 7' wide. At maximum angle (30 degrees) it sticks out about 6" past the wheels which is nice.

 

[deere5105]

Just had to try re-posting to see if picture comes up. Seems the consensus is this unit would only be suited to loose soil, with my situation, and potentially end up with a damaged useless blade. The price and width are tempting. Not sure I would be happy with these limitations and think would also like to be able to tilt too.

 

[LD1]

Just had to try re-posting to see if picture comes up. Seems the consensus is this unit would only be suited to loose soil, with my situation, and potentially end up with a damaged useless blade. The price and width are tempting. Not sure I would be happy with these limitations and think would also like to be able to tilt too.

View attachment 284393

Do you have and are you handy with a welder??

About $20 worth of scrap peices and that blade could be made indestructible

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a 7' 45 blade and use it for most of my rearblade jobs and it has held up so far. I do take it easy since I know it is light duty and we have a lot of large rocks buried in my locale. You can move the blade over and offset to one side for dressing up a ditch but I would really think a heavier duty blade would be a far better choice for a 5303. This blade is better suited for a 30 to 35 hp tractor imo, and I plan on using it with a 2720 size machine if I go that route.

 

[deere5105]

Do you have and are you handy with a welder??

About $20 worth of scrap peices and that blade could be made indestructible

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.

 

[jenkinsph]

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.





View attachment 284468

I would buy it for $200 or the $250 if it isn't bent up allready, seems to be a decent blade as mine is about 12 years old. You could beef it up a little before it gets bent and have a small enough investment to recoup it later if you go larger. Used implements in this price range seem to be easy enough to sell so the risk is minimal imo.

 

[deere5105]

I would buy it for $200 or the $250 if it isn't bent up allready, seems to be a decent blade as mine is about 12 years old. You could beef it up a little before it gets bent and have a small enough investment to recoup it later if you go larger. Used implements in this price range seem to be easy enough to sell so the risk is minimal imo.

I have submitted an offer of $200 if is in condition as stated. Out of curiousity, twice now there has been mention of strengthening or beefing this unit up. I have never worked with a straight blade before. What is the consensus on what is the "weak link" and what is the recommended work to strengthen? I have noticed it seems the main frame just before the pivot point has been boxed in. I assume this was a previous damaged or weak area?

 

[LD1]

The tilt really isnt a pain, and isnt usually very usefull UNLESS you also have the offset feature. The tilt, tilts ALOT. Only really good for digging a shallow trench WITHOUT the offset feature.

So...if you are ditching without the offset, you dont need much tilt, in which case using the 3PH linkage isnt bad at all. The idea of tilt and offset working TOGETHER is you can stay up on the flat and do ditches. Since without the offset, you will have to drive down in the ditch, the tractor itself "tilts"

As to strengthening....usually the blade itself is the weak point. The pin on the blade you are looking at "could" have been repaired just because of years of use...it got sloppy. Most of the time I see a blade bent or tweaked, it is the blade itself bent. In the picture you posted of that 2184, notice the extra roll at the top, and then down by the cutting edge, the peice of steel welded on edge. If you can imagine sitting behind your blade, with your feet in the middle and grab ahold of each end and pull backwards, (like a bow and arrow), it is easy to see how that simple little peice offers alot of re-inforcement.

Take a look of the backsides of blades like these for ideas
RBT35 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride
http://www.kingkutter.com/store.aspx?id=137
RHINO | Blades | Heavy Duty Rear Blades

Notice they are all rely on more than just the curve of the blade to keep it from turning into a reverse u shape. Some use flat steel and gussets, some use a box-it-in approach. Not hard to get creative and come up with somehting effective.

I can say for SURE, since I have never looked at a 45 in person, but I would think that the 3ph a-frame and king pin would hold up fine.

 

[94BULLITT]

I bet he bent the thing then straightened it and beefed it up.

 

[idaho2]

Deere 5105,

I have a 96" Bison, if you want weight, tilt, offset and angle look at these. I have mine attached to a 55hp Mahindra 4wd 5530.

idaho2