Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[LD1]

It wont cause any issues as-is, but has obviously been used with too much tractor in the past. And unless you want it to keep bending even more and to the point of being un-usable or broken, then re-enforce it before it gets any worse.

Kinda think of it in terms of say...a ratchet. you know..the worn out kind when trying to break something really tight and it slips every once in awhile, but works just fine on lighter loads. Well, thats kinda like your blade. Sure it will be fine, it it certainly isnt going to get any better. And the more times you use it hard, the worse its gonna get until you break something (like knuckles with the ratchet analogy).

 

[jenkinsph]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Steve, those braces will help a lot. But you know that it is just a temporary thing before you get the LP RBT3584.

 

[deere5105]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

Looks good to me. I assume that it is running from 4" on the point nearest the center to nothing on the outside end. Looks like you got good matching cuts and angles to allow both pieces to align straight across the back. It would drive me nuts to have one end higher than the other and running across at the same distance from top and bottom of the moldboard.

 

[deere5105]

It wont cause any issues as-is, but has obviously been used with too much tractor in the past. And unless you want it to keep bending even more and to the point of being un-usable or broken, then re-enforce it before it gets any worse.

Kinda think of it in terms of say...a ratchet. you know..the worn out kind when trying to break something really tight and it slips every once in awhile, but works just fine on lighter loads. Well, thats kinda like your blade. Sure it will be fine, it it certainly isnt going to get any better. And the more times you use it hard, the worse its gonna get until you break something (like knuckles with the ratchet analogy).

Good analogy. Guess just am curious how much effort should be put into trying to rotate the bottom/cutting edge forward to get it perfectly straight. Seems the moldboard has a "cupping bend" to it anyway and if I try to lay it down and drive on it would cause the moldboard to want to flatten out and become straight. Right now seems to be pulling ok with no noticeable issues.

Jenkinsph & LD1, Is the consensus to brace as is or does it appear to need attention before bracing? The input and advice and effort you guys have put into this is much appreciated and unbelieveable!

 

[MrChris]

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284468"/>

If you look at the ends of this blade in the picture you will see vertical supports on each side on the back of the blade. These are simple but very effective in reducing the twisting forces put on the blade from the scraping forces that are strongest at the ends of the blade while grading.

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks good to me. I assume that it is running from 4" on the point nearest the center to nothing on the outside end. Looks like you got good matching cuts and angles to allow both pieces to align straight across the back. It would drive me nuts to have one end higher than the other and running across at the same distance from top and bottom of the moldboard.

Actually it tapers down to 1" at the out side ends, this is needed because the moldboard is curved. I had a few more pics to post up but the two pics you see took aver 15 minutes to load. Hope they get this site fixed soon.

 

[LD1]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

I like it.

Deere5105: personally, I would brace as is.

 

[jenkinsph]

LD1,

About the A frame I was trying to figure out how this was bent in the first place since most all tractors have no downward pressure? The front rolled pieces the hitch pins are fastened to are at least 3/8 or 7/16 thick so pretty stout. Only thing I have come up with is maybe they tried to pull up a lighterd pine stump with the opposite blade edge. A 4010 had good 3pt hydraulics and could put the hurt on it but if properly used I don't think he will have problems with it. I do think if it was straightened out I would add a piece of 3/8" flatbar to the bottom from side to side leaving only enough room to get to the hitch pin nuts. I never liked welding the nuts in place because if the pin breaks off it is a pita to back the bolt stud out. Don't see the need for the large gusset plates since the top link is free to move from side to side, am I missing your intent?

deere 5105,

About driving over the moldboard, I would lay it down an flat concrete and drive something over it heavy enough to force the blade straight then add a rib on the top and bottom edges welding in place. Afterwards I would let it cool some and the back off of it. I have done this with large pipe (casing) and used a cherry picker for weight but a front tractor wheel or heavy pickup should work for this. Start with a light vehicle and progress upwards in weight if needed. A press would work if your welder has one large enough. I don't think your welder will have any problem straightening out the front hitch and bracing it up.

Those strong back box tubing sections were centered behind the heavy plate that bends inward on the back. I intend to weld the center section in place before I add on the reinforcement tubing too.

I will likely convert it to hydraulic angle and offset next.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, those braces will help a lot. But you know that it is just a temporary thing before you get the LP RBT3584.

Love to have a 3584 but I don't need it as bad as I need some other things such as a good core aerator, Harley rake, and a new 2720. You can tell by my pictures that the 1998 rear blade hasn't seen much use. Now if the economy improves then I might get one sooner than later.