I fully understand the mechanics of grapples... Trust me.Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandTractor
I'll have to find some pics of my inadequate pallet forks moving brush piles.
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I fully understand the mechanics of grapples... Trust me.Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandTractor
I'll have to find some pics of my inadequate pallet forks moving brush piles.
I had a small 2WD Kubota B7200 in the past and found it to be very limited in what it could do. When considering the purchase a couple of years ago for a tractor for the (new) farm, a friend recommended that I not buy anything less than 50 hp. I followed his advice and am very glad I did.
Leave the cab tractor outdoors until you can afford a barn. We do. Don't make an expensive mistake. My .02.
He is right of course.. BUT I have moved a lot of brush with my QA Pallet forks. Just enough brush to ALMOST make me spring for a Grapple, and I probably will at some time. But my point is you can get by with a set of pallet forks, and yes they are about half the price of a grapple, and not near as good for moving brush, but they excel at moving pallets:) And I have moved some brush piles so big I could not see around them. Yes on most of them I had to get off and stack the brush all one way. Sometimes you can get under a pile and just pick it up with the forks without getting off and stacking. So bottom line.. yes the grapple is best, but you can still do a lot with forks. It is like a lot of things, you can "make do" and "get by" with a lot of things that are not ideal but will work.
James K0UA
The other cost for a grapple that has not been brought up dollar wise is the additional cost of the remote to operate the grapple. Don't get me wrong, a grapple IS THE WAY TO GO, but it is going to cost a lot more money. :(
The description was not for you but rather for the OP.Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaPerk
1026r is the smallest I've seen. I think a 4000 series is in order for you. It's still small but can do a lot of work based on the one I got to run.
Attachment 285288
I used forks at first to move brush. They work, but the best way to do it is to manually pile brush on them, or it all falls off if you try to scoop it. Logs can be done too, but you need to get them perfectly balanced if they are long, and if you hit a bump or tilt the tractor slightly, they fall off and you have to start again. When I got the grapple, my clearing efficiency went up by 10x. Plus you can also move firewood and firewood rounds with the grapple, and you can't with forks (not without adding something on). You stay in the seat a lot more with the grapple than the forks, so you get a lot more done in the same time. My grapple has almost been the only attachment I have used in the past 2 years since I got it. The only exceptions are the bucket for dirt/gravel and the forks for an occasional pallet or other lifting task and moving rocks for my retaining wall.
Cost is an issue, as noted. A grapple will set you back closer to $2k by the time you do the 3rd function plumbing and buy the grapple itself. It can come in cheaper, depending on how your tractor is set up, but there are significant additional costs there beyond just buying the grapple. Forks run about $600-700 around here for something decent. In either case, you really want your tractor to have the SSQA on the FEL (Skid Steer Quick Attach on the Front End Loader). Which brings up another point - you MUST get a loader for the things you are discussing. You can get by without a grapple, for sure, but it is such a huge efficiency boost, you won't know how you managed without it.
For that size acreage, as everyone has noted the BX is way too small. In a Kubota, a B may work but could still be on the small side. I have the smallest Grand L (3130) and wish I had one with a bigger engine for my 10 acres of woods. I would say you are in L/Grand L or even the larger MX or M series range for your size land. Those are only Kubotas as I don't really know the other brands, but that is the size range I would look at, no matter the brand, IMHO.
In my case the hydraulics to operate the grapple were more than the grapple. My grapple has been by far best addition to my tractor.Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch
You are right in that a quick attach would be nice. I bought a pin on grapple in January and have only taken the grapple off twice. So if the original poster buys a tractor with pin on bucket his tasks will determine if he requires the quick attach system. Again I would love a quick attach FEL but my primary task is to reclaim an over grown jungle so I make do with the pin on setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by dstig1
There are many threads on TBN describing the various options for setting up hydraulics to control the grapple. Depending on choices and how the tractor is set up originally by the dealer, it can cost as little as $150 for hoses and fittings to run controls off the rear remotes. If the tractor doesn't already have at least one set of rear remotes then add $350-600 for a kit to install yourself in an afternoon with your wrenches or add a couple of hours labor for the dealer to do it. Alternatively, if you choose a diverter valve ($600 plus 3hrs) or electric over hydraulic ($800 plus 3 hrs) the added controls are more bucks. Dealers tend to push the latter two options but rear remotes work extremely well and many owners on TBN use them quite happily. A set or two of rear remotes is also useful for many other tasks and any "real" tractor should have them.Quote:
Originally Posted by buck12