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  1. #31
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    Blue Ridge, Texas
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    Kubota L5740

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    Thanks for all the feedback. We are taking it slow for now and are still researching and learning. Stopped by the Deere shop and were looking at the three series and they did say by the time you add in the hydraulics you are looking at around 2k Gordon the grapple in total. It is not something we would be comfortable doing on our own so we will need a dealer install.

  2. #32
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Prudence Island, RI
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    2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH

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    Quote Originally Posted by MRSDOUGLAS
    Thanks for all the feedback. We are taking it slow for now and are still researching and learning. Stopped by the Deere shop and were looking at the three series and they did say by the time you add in the hydraulics you are looking at around 2k Gordon the grapple in total. It is not something we would be comfortable doing on our own so we will need a dealer install.
    That is true only if 1) you use a dedicated third function valve or diverter valve, and 2) pay the dealer for installation. Instead, ask the dealer what the cost of a set of rear remotes would be.. You can buy the set of hoses and fittings needed to connect the rear remote to a grapple for $150. Rear remotes work just as well as dedicated FEL joystick mounted controllers and are a lot cheaper.

    Also, don't buy a grapple from a tractor dealer. Buy direct. A light duty grapple can be had for about $1000 delivered.

  3. #33
    Bronze Member
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    Blue Ridge, Texas
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    Kubota L5740

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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandTractor View Post

    That is true only if 1) you use a dedicated third function valve or diverter valve, and 2) pay the dealer for installation. Instead, ask the dealer what the cost of a set of rear remotes would be.. You can buy the set of hoses and fittings needed to connect the rear remote to a grapple for $150. Rear remotes work just as well as dedicated FEL joystick mounted controllers and are a lot cheaper.

    Also, don't buy a grapple from a tractor dealer. Buy direct. A light duty grapple can be had for about $1000 delivered.
    Great info, thanks. Everything we read here gives us more questions to ask and will ultimately help us make the best choice.

  4. #34
    Veteran Member dstig1's Avatar
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    Apr 2010
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    W Wisc
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    Kubota L5240 HSTC, (Kubota L3130 HST - sold)

    Default Re: Need help with Grapple 101...

    You can argue that the rear remotes work "just as well" as a 3rd function from a usability standpoint. I never take my hand off the joystick as I just flick the button with my thumb and use the grapple. Taking it off to grab the rear remote lever and going back would be awkward in my tractor, others may be easier. Is the difference worth the cost? That's an individual decision based on how your tractor is set up and your preference. But there is a difference.
    -Dave

    "Being a pessimist is great. You can't lose. Either you end up being right...or you are pleasantly surprised."

    L5240HST, QA, 824 Loader, 48" Forks, 48" Grapple, rear blade, box blade, landscape rake, Ancient Farmi Skidding winch
    Trailer - 10k/16' twin axle w/elec brakes
    2005 F250 5.4V8(3V) 3.73/4wd tow vehicle

  5. #35
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dstig1
    You can argue that the rear remotes work "just as well" as a 3rd function from a usability standpoint. I never take my hand off the joystick as I just flick the button with my thumb and use the grapple. Taking it off to grab the rear remote lever and going back would be awkward in my tractor, others may be easier. Is the difference worth the cost? That's an individual decision based on how your tractor is set up and your preference. But there is a difference.
    True. Some people think standard transmissions in cars are a bother and others get used to it or prefer it. I've had a tractor with diverter valve and another where I used rear remotes. Both work fine and are equally functional IMO. My current tractor has the button on the joystick but if I had to do it again I'd probably go back to the rear remote so long as the position of the controller was convenient. Given the benefit of rear remotes for other purposes especially a hydraulic topping lift, it makes sense to get at least one set of remotes before investing in a diverter or electric over hydraulic set up. Then, if you have the rear remote then why not try it as a grapple control before investing another $800-1000 on having a dealer install a single purpose grapple control valve. If you have a rear remote you can control the grapple by investing $150 in hoses and fittings most of which can be reused with a diverter valve etc if you choose to go that route eventually. A lot of people on TBN seem to get sold on the diverter or electrohydraulic set up without ever really experiencing the simplicity of using rear remotes. Why pay extra for automatic tranny if you can do everything you need with 4 on the floor and put the extra money towards an extra implement instead. The cost of dealer installed electrohydaulic FEL mounted controller is about what the light duty grapple itself costs.

  6. #36
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410

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    It must be more of a personal preference than anything. I've used the rear remote for the grapple before and decided I didn't like it one bit. I could have saved a lot of money by going with the rear remote option but I chose the 3 rd function valve as I like it that much more. I think either the 3rd function or selector switch is far superior to using the rear remote. I find it funny that some people spend close to 30k dollars on a tractor and worry about a relatively small amount of money to invest in convenient features.
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  7. #37
    Bronze Member
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    Blue Ridge, Texas
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    Kubota L5740

    Default Re: Need help with Grapple 101...

    Quote Originally Posted by Piston View Post
    I find it funny that some people spend close to 30k dollars on a tractor and worry about a relatively small amount of money to invest in convenient features.

    Ahh, but in this thread they are providing options to a complete newb who doesn't know any better what questions to ask. It is always nice to know what options to look at so we can form our own opinion.

  8. #38
    Veteran Member buck12's Avatar
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    NW Mississippi
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    Mahindra 2615

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    Quote Originally Posted by IslandTractor

    That is true only if 1) you use a dedicated third function valve or diverter valve, and 2) pay the dealer for installation. Instead, ask the dealer what the cost of a set of rear remotes would be.. You can buy the set of hoses and fittings needed to connect the rear remote to a grapple for $150. Rear remotes work just as well as dedicated FEL joystick mounted controllers and are a lot cheaper.

    Also, don't buy a grapple from a tractor dealer. Buy direct. A light duty grapple can be had for about $1000 delivered.
    If you shop around on the grapple you can do better than $1000. My Wild Kat grapple was less than $700 delivered in January. I am sure there are better grapples but for the money but I couldn't find anything that met my needs for less.

  9. #39
    Elite Member Piston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRSDOUGLAS

    Ahh, but in this thread they are providing options to a complete newb who doesn't know any better what questions to ask. It is always nice to know what options to look at so we can form our own opinion.
    Good point
    Kubota L4610 and John Deere 410 - WR Long 64" Grapple (best attachment ever!) QA front forks, rear forks, Brown 472 HD Rotary Mower, Land Pride RBT4096 hydro blade, Woods 7200 Power Rake, homemade 3 pt log splitter, Land Pride rake/blade combo, Land Pride HRL 3578 box blade (Hydro scarifiers), Shaver SC50 3 pt. Stumpgrinder, FitRiteHydraulics TnT, 6" Vermeer PTO Chipper (Hydro feed), Disc Plow, Ratchet Rake, LP HD25 Hydraulic PHD, Woodmizer LT15 portable sawmill
    Rear Remotes Install

  10. #40
    Super Star Member IslandTractor's Avatar
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    Default Re: Need help with Grapple 101...

    Quote Originally Posted by Piston View Post
    It must be more of a personal preference than anything. I've used the rear remote for the grapple before and decided I didn't like it one bit. I could have saved a lot of money by going with the rear remote option but I chose the 3 rd function valve as I like it that much more. I think either the 3rd function or selector switch is far superior to using the rear remote. I find it funny that some people spend close to 30k dollars on a tractor and worry about a relatively small amount of money to invest in convenient features.
    I agree it is a preference and budget thing. My point was that people investigating a grapple and grapple control should be aware that the simplest option (rear remotes) is a viable one and that quite a few people use it. It is less expensive and that is a factor for most of us, especially after we shell out big bucks for the tractor and want to maximize the number and capability of implements with the few pennies we have left in our pockets. I think my estimate of comparative cost is pretty close so with a savings of about $800 for using the rear remote, you can either get another implement or, if you don't already have a rear remote then the savings will pay for that installation which opens up all sorts of benefits beyond just controlling a grapple. For what it's worth, if I had a money tree I would make sure my tractor had several rear remotes and then would also buy an electrohydraulic true third function valve to control the joystick. If I was on a budget I would go with the rear remote. I own the third option, the diverter valve, and don't think it is worth the $600 or so that it costs (I got mine "free" with a 4n1 bucket I bought off ebay). I don't like the diverter that much because if I am working quickly I find I sometimes still have the button pressed (to divert flow to the grapple) when I want to curl/dump rather than open/close the grapple and therefore inadvertently open or close the grapple. Not an issue with electrohydraulic or with rear remotes.

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