3 Point Turbo Saw

[Piston]

I looked at shears for a while too for my tractor. Most are designed to run with at least 3,000psi which is where the 'force' comes from. Our tractors only have about 2,500psi so it's much less force. On top of that, at under 10gpm flow, the shears would be very slow. I think the turbo saw with the grapple is a good compromise, you can use the grapple to put force on the tree to make it fall behind you, reducing the chance of a tree falling on you.
I'd be a little concerned with 'bushy' trees falling backwards, as the "spring" action in the branches when it hits the ground can cause the tree to spring back towards you.

I bet a turbo saw and FEL grapple setup could clear a lot of trees in a hurry without ever getting off the tractor. This idea is sounding better and better

930ck,
I couldn't be happier with my WR Long 64" OBG-2 grapple. It is an excellent match for our loader.








More pics here.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...ml#post2821856

[Rtwilson]

Im starting to like the sound of it and especially the never leaving the tractor part. I also run a WR Long grapple the 72" though, I love it it's on more than my bucket. My only other concern on the turbo saw is that a 10 inch tree is the biggest you can do. Alought I was thinking on larger trees I could make mutiple cuts, and push it over with the loader, or finish the cut with chain saw.

[Tanamera]

I have had mine for two years now. I use it with my Kubota MX5100 Gear. It works great. I have cleared hundreds of red cedars off of my property in North Texas. I have never turned the saw teeth (you have four sides to use) and it still cuts trees like butter. The grapple feature is not the best option for gatering and moving cut trees. It's more for dragging them on-at-a-time.

I wish I had and HST. Maybe some day.

[Piston]

RTwilson,
Sometimes I wish I went with the 72" grapple (I have the 64") when I'm doing a lot of work with firewood.

I also found that with the 9" tyne spacing on the grapple bottom, that sometimes firewood or rocks will fall through, so I'm going to weld an additional tyne in each space, which is 8 more tynes, giving me only 4.5" of open space, I think that will work even better and it really won't add much additional weight.

I think a FEL grapple with a turbo saw could do some serious land clearing on a small tractor like ours. I just wish my tractor fund wasn't empty!

[930ck]

Had looked at the turbo saw at farm shows before buying one and was told that the reason that they limit the size the saw can cut is to prevent some one from cutting a tree that was big enough to cause a serious problem. I agree on the grapple it is better suited to grab small cedars and carry them to a pile but I think that cedar tree removal is the main purpose of the saw

[Rtwilson]

That is the one thing shying me away from the turbo saw. I'm looking to do a whole lot more than little cedars.

[Tanamera]

I can cut larger trees with my Turbo Saw. You just have to come at it from a couple of angles.

[Rtwilson]

I can cut larger trees with my Turbo Saw. You just have to come at it from a couple of angles.

What is the largest tree you have cut? and what type of tree?

[Agent Blue]

When you think about it ... it will cut a tree less that 10" at the base and you can control the forward motion of the fall. ( just from observation of the picture ) What if you can't get to the side you want it to fall to ? Are you limited to where you can drive due to the tree stumps ? I believe I could get more done in an hour with a turbo Husqvarnia that that expensive machine maneuvering around in three hours. I cut and limb right away as the next tree may fall in the same location I don't have to fight limbs or skid away prior to this. It may work great for others with nice flat surfaces but hills are another story. A 20" bar certainly isn't limited to a ten inch base. I tend to stick with what works.

[LouieJunior]

I wonder how it would work on a thick patch of willows? I also have considered this item...

http://www.wikco.com/hyrch.html