Box blade damage

[Mud Mechanik]

Yep, I've seen that before. I know of someone who turned his A-frame on his boxblade into a pretzel behind his Kubota. Here is a picture of what I do with my rakes. I use steel tubing with flat bar tabs welded on for the 3 point hook up. I would also look into adding a couple more tabs to the lower connection point so you have a clevis hitch, this will even out the stresses on the lower pins vs. using single tabs. Hope this helps!
View attachment 290318

That definately helps....good looking 3ph hookup you got there.

 

[Johndeere3720]

That definately helps....good looking 3ph hookup you got there.

Thanks Mud Mechanik! :thumbsup:

 

[TractrNoob]

I'm not sure what the point of your post was. Use the right tool (FEL) for the job? Always match your tractor's HP to the appropriate (heavy duty) tool?

 

[LD1]

I'm not sure what the point of your post was. Use the right tool (FEL) for the job? Always match your tractor's HP to the appropriate (heavy duty) tool?

The point of his post (I think) was to share his experience and possibly warn others of the potential of damage when pushing in reverse with a boxblade.

I think the damage occurred because the tractor and BB weren't sized appropriately. If they were, I doubt damage would have occurred. Cause after all, alot of BB's even have the option for a rear cutting edge.

 

[john_bud]

"Cheaper is not usually better". Well that's only half right. Implements should be matched to the tractor. Put a real heavy duty 6' blade on a 25 hp tractor and either it won't be able to operate it, or something else will break, on the tractor. A super strong, expensive box blade on a CUT and it will do a terrible job because it will be poorly matched to the tractor and will not be able to effectively work the attachment.

Ken

Yes, but there is a LOT more room at the too strong end than there is at the too weak end! Most implements bought by "casual users" are far less strong than they would be if they were expected to work every day. Mostly that's because people don't want to pay 3-4x more. That's ok, as long as it's used with a great deal of caution.

 

[Deere Dude]

The point of his post (I think) was to share his experience and possibly warn others of the potential of damage when pushing in reverse with a boxblade.

I think the damage occurred because the tractor and BB weren't sized appropriately. If they were, I doubt damage would have occurred. Cause after all, alot of BB's even have the option for a rear cutting edge.

I have a BB rated for a 70 HP tractor and I have a 45 HP tractor. Just backing up slowly and hit a tree and really bent a lift arm on the tractor. Another time I was using a dirt scoop in the reverse direction and it was designed that way,but I bent a lift arm. I bent it straight with a log splitter, sort of, but then I was chugging along with a full load in the BB and a bucket full on the tractor going about 2-3 MPH and hit a buried tree stump and bent in the whole center of the BB. The moral of the story is, if you hit something or twist something hard, something has to give, even if they are sized properly. Hopefully it is something metal and can be fixed cheaply and not cast.

 

[Ken45101]

I'd consider it a cheap lesson, and not make it stronger. After I straightened mine out, I got much more cautious (and after hearing about how people have broken off cast parts on the rear..)

That sounds like a wise approach to me. I would much rather damage the A-frame than destroy the structural integrity of the tractor.

Ken

 

[Mud Mechanik]

The point of his post (I think) was to share his experience and possibly warn others of the potential of damage when pushing in reverse with a boxblade.

I think the damage occurred because the tractor and BB weren't sized appropriately. If they were, I doubt damage would have occurred. Cause after all, alot of BB's even have the option for a rear cutting edge.

Your exactly right....I purchased a new tractor that is about double the HP of my previous one. I have built quite an arsenal of implements and simply cannot afford to upgrade all of them at one time, yes I am using a light duty BB on a 60hp tractor and know that the blade is the weak link. I just wanted to warn others that possibly have a similar setup.

 

[Guesseral]

Your exactly right....I purchased a new tractor that is about double the HP of my previous one. I have built quite an arsenal of implements and simply cannot afford to upgrade all of them at one time, yes I am using a light duty BB on a 60hp tractor and know that the blade is the weak link. I just wanted to warn others that possibly have a similar setup.

I have a very simmilar situation, with my tractor and my (old) eqipment and I have no plans to replace the equipment till it's worn out or broken beyond usefull repair. Where I haven't had the problem with a piece of equipment (yet) that you have I am very aware of the potential. I use the equipment very very cautiously not that you weren't it's just the way that I use all equipment. When I was younger I used to tear up equipment on the farm with over use, or miss use as dad said welded it back together and went back out but that is when it was dads dollar that was involved not mine! :confused3:

You are absolutly correct replacing all of your implements simply isn't cost effective. As long as you stay aware of this incident and allow for the extra HP you should be fine IMO. My biggest problem is that I need to replace equipment to get it wider or as wide as the tractor is now, but in the mean time I will utalize what I have got!

Thank you for sharing this with all of us we all need an eye opener once in a while to keep us aware of the potential for trouble! I am sure that we all have some equipment that could be more suited to our tractors!:thumbsup:

 

[sdkubota]

Remember how much fun it was to "burn rubber" with Dad's car, gas, and tires? Not so fun when you are paying.