Ford Heavy FEL Bucket Repair

[skytracker]

I have an Ford 3000 original euip. heavy FEL bucket in need of repair. The front lower edge is rusted and breaking through almost 10 inches toward the weld, and on the sides at the lower corners is delaminating. the rest of the bucket is in good shape, attach points, bucket shoulders etc.

I was going to use a plasma cutter to remove the rusted areas, put a 70" piece welded on the front edge overlapping the original weld area.
Then replace the side lower corner sections and put gussets to the inside.

What grade/thickness steel should I use?? I was thinking 3/16" or 1/4" plate. Want it to hold up quite awhile without being too heavy.
Should I put an add on cutting edge on as well??

Then apply alkyd based primer and Ford blue paint.
Anyone else done this before have any tips or recommendations??

John

[skytracker]

I will try to post some pictures tomorrow.

[LD1]

Pics would help us for sure.

Do you know what the thickness was (or is in other areas).

I would just match what is there. And nothing fancy. Mild steel will work just fine.

[skytracker]

The attached photos should help. It originally had a bolt on cutting edge.
That is gone with rust and split in the middle and bent down some. Then it is separating at the weld for the two layers about one foot back.
The main bucket is 3/16 two layers with a gap so dents inside do not go through.
The sides and cutting edges seem to be 3/16 with 1/4 straps on the one side of the V.
There are 1/4 wear strips on the bottom front to back they have separated but look like they will weld back on.
Where is the best source for a replacement bolt on cutting edge? Or ideas to make one with the bevel? The bucket is 60 inch wide.

[Gary Fowler]

That almost looks like a lost cause. More to repair than to buy a new one. At bare minimum the whole bottom and the rusted out sides have to be replaced. I have seen buckets for sale for $500 or less and even if attachment points had to be modified, I think it would be less trouble than repairing that one.

[skytracker]

Well it is rough in areas. The whole bottom does not need replaced though it is two layers back from the weld seam that is separating. the second layer is pretty good.
I am looking for a replacement. The ones I have been finding are either way too big or small, or priced high for what they are.
I will find one.
But I need to move a pile of gravel and snow removal this season. I need steel to overlap the seam about 12 inch by 60.
And side plate pieces at the bottom. Re-attach the wear bars and replace the cutting edge with something 5 inch by 60 inch.

[schmism]

thats a significant rebuild.

cut the bottom of the bucket off at the transtion from the back to the bottom. have a fab shop break a piece of 10gauge with "sides" on it, so that it fits inside the bucket forming new sides and bottom. Weld to existing bucket. buy cutting edge for front and reinforce the new sides with extra 10ga strip.

cost.... id expect 300-500 depending on how much steel you put into it.

[Soundguy]

i've fixed worse. had to cut the entire bucket out of one once all the way up and just left hte sides.. save dthe cutting edge.. welded in a new 3/16 skin and the edge and went. that's been years ago.. and I move hay bales with it...

[Gary Fowler]

The OP has no cutting edge left that can be salvaged, the total bottom would need replacement back to the transition to the rounded back at minimum and then the sides. With the price of steel sheets and new cutting edge its going to be near the cost of new bucket even if you just bought a 4 foot x 8 foot x 5/16" sheet and cut the pieces and welded it in yourself. If you start buying cut lengths like 60" wide it will cost you as much as a whole sheet anyway so may as well but a 4x8 and keep the leftover for projects. Assuming that the OP has a cutting apparatus (plasma or oxyacetylene) this would be the way to go. That will still be lots of welding rods to burn also

[Soundguy]

i bought mine as a sheet measured, cut the excess off..., tacked it on the bottom at my cutting edge.. then used 3 big ratched straps, a piece of angle iron, a piec eof lumber and a jack and folrmed the sheet to the curvature of the sides and around and up the back, then tacked it in place and then welded the seems up on the sides and front, then welde dthe back and joined the new skin to the old one with a small union plate.. the old plate I left ont he outside, so looking at the inside of the bucket it was a seamless floor and back.

used grader blade makes a great cutting edge.. can usually be had in 8' sections from construction co's, scrap yards near const. co's and from municipalities with a public works dept.

good for grader blades and box blades and land plane projects too!