Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 49
  1. #31
    Member skoalman12's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    40
    Location
    TX,TX
    Tractor
    2013 5083e

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    I think im going to get this. Frontier RB2308. 8' Heavy duty, with offset, no hydro kit, with side plates for when i need more of a "box blade".
    It weighs 1139 lbs w/o hydraulics.

  2. #32
    Elite Member
    Advertiser
    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,461
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by skoalman12 View Post
    I think im going to get this. Frontier RB2308. 8' Heavy duty, with offset, no hydro kit, with side plates for when i need more of a "box blade".
    It weighs 1139 lbs w/o hydraulics.
    You have a lot of road ditches to do, right? You might want to think about getting a 2408 instead of the 2308. The 24 series blades offset 7"-9" further. I would be looking at Land Pride myself with 30" offset, but you already know that from my posts.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  3. #33
    Platinum Member JohninCT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Posts
    979
    Location
    Central CT
    Tractor
    Struck Magnatrac 6000, Kioti DK40SE

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    If you have a lot of ditch work to do you are probably on the right track with the rear blade you are looking at. If I going to do over and get one attachment to do multiple jobs in place of blade, box scraper, and rake I would look into getting a TR3 rake. It's pricey but looks like a good replacement for at least 3 attachments. It looks like it would be a great tool for road work.

    TR3 Rake - 3pt Tractor Rake - YouTube
    "I don't do landscaping... I do battle with vegetation"

  4. #34
    Elite Member
    Advertiser
    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,461
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by JohninCT View Post
    If you have a lot of ditch work to do you are probably on the right track with the rear blade you are looking at. If I going to do over and get one attachment to do multiple jobs in place of blade, box scraper, and rake I would look into getting a TR3 rake. It's pricey but looks like a good replacement for at least 3 attachments. It looks like it would be a great tool for road work.

    TR3 Rake - 3pt Tractor Rake - YouTube
    The TR3 is for smaller tractors. I don't think that it would last to long behind his JD.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  5. #35
    Elite Member schmism's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,930
    Location
    Peoria IL
    Tractor
    New holland TC(33)

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by PhysAssist View Post
    .....And what I would say is the MtnView showed the best style box blade available, and if possible you should consider a roll-over box blade for all of the above.
    YMMV
    I have to disagree here for a number of reasons.

    1)I have never wanted to scarify ground and not move dirt at the same time. I dont want to have to set up my BB for scarify, then change it back up and make a second cut to move the dirt. Effectively doubling the amount of work it takes to move compacted dirt.
    2) I often after dragging a pile of dirt into a low area want to backup and push the dirt flat with the "other side" of the BB. If you wanted to use the cutting edge side you would have to make a change to the rollover to do that.

    Ive always considered box blades with hydraulic rippers and hinged back panels to be THE best style of box blade available.



    a similar version offered by woods, HB84 (7') weighs in at a hefty 1200lbs.

    to put that in perspective, my no-name cheep 5' BB weighs 200 lbs stock. i add another 200lbs of railroad rail on it to more than double its cutting performance.
    Steve - TC33D 4x4 FEL, dual rear remotes with toys

  6. #36
    Platinum Member ljohnson778's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    883
    Location
    Upstate NY
    Tractor
    New Holland T5070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pclausen
    While it's true that a 96" heavy duty all hydraulic blade lists for around $5k, you can pick one up for craigslist if you keep looking. I picked up this one for $1200.

    After a little work, it looked like this:
    Heck, I'll give you $1300 for it...

    Man, you stole it.
    Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
    -
    Benjamin Franklin

    The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it, ignorance may deride it, but in the end, there it is.
    -Winston Churchill

  7. #37
    Elite Member
    Advertiser
    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,461
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Well it would be pretty difficult to argue that the RO box blades are better, seeing as they have all but been replaced by any and all professionals. If the RO boxes were the best thing going, all the pros would have them and the major implement manufacturers would not have discontinued them. They were not discontinued because they cost more than the current industrial models. So I have to say that the industrial boxes with the floating rear blade and the hydraulic scarifiers are better than the roll overs.

    Now with that said, I prefer my Gannon roll over vs ANY std type of box blade. Imangine using a RO vs a std BB with no hydraulic top link or side link or scarifiers. RO easiely wins out in that senario in my eyes. But that may just be me. Different people like different things, I like to be able to rip down 10". You won't be doing that with a std BB. I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse. You will not do that with ANY std BB, industrial or not. A person that has not ever used a RO box blade probably doesn't realize that it takes only a few seconds to roll the box to where you want it. It's not like you have to stop the tractor and get off and set the teeth to the height that you may need or adjust the top link so that you can smooth out the surface that you are working on. They were state of the art in their day and really have only been replaced as top dog by the industrial box blades of today.

    Just my based on MY experience, others views will vary.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -p4290016-jpg  
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  8. #38
    Elite Member schmism's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,930
    Location
    Peoria IL
    Tractor
    New holland TC(33)

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse.
    As a general recommendation to new uesers of box blades. It is not advisable to push large large amounts of dirt, or worse try to cut dirt like a dozer with the back side of a box blade. The 3pt arms of a tractor are generally not designed to push and many members have found that out the hard way when they bent a lower 3pt link trying to push stuff backward with there box blade.
    Steve - TC33D 4x4 FEL, dual rear remotes with toys

  9. #39
    Elite Member
    Advertiser
    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    7,461
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by schmism View Post
    As a general recommendation to new uesers of box blades. It is not advisable to push large large amounts of dirt, or worse try to cut dirt like a dozer with the back side of a box blade. The 3pt arms of a tractor are generally not designed to push and many members have found that out the hard way when they bent a lower 3pt link trying to push stuff backward with there box blade.
    You are correct, new users need to learn what they are doing. But then not to many new users start out with industrial equipment like what we have been talking about and does take about any punishment that is put in it's way.

    We have gotten off track and probably are not helping the OP any more and I apologize for that.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  10. #40
    Veteran Member PhysAssist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    1,154
    Location
    Upstate NY- see the BIG lake- look just below it...
    Tractor
    Kubota B2320

    Default Re: Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    Well it would be pretty difficult to argue that the RO box blades are better, seeing as they have all but been replaced by any and all professionals. If the RO boxes were the best thing going, all the pros would have them and the major implement manufacturers would not have discontinued them. They were not discontinued because they cost more than the current industrial models. So I have to say that the industrial boxes with the floating rear blade and the hydraulic scarifiers are better than the roll overs.

    Now with that said, I prefer my Gannon roll over vs ANY std type of box blade. Imangine using a RO vs a std BB with no hydraulic top link or side link or scarifiers. RO easiely wins out in that senario in my eyes. But that may just be me. Different people like different things, I like to be able to rip down 10". You won't be doing that with a std BB. I like to be able to push a cubic yard of dirt in reverse. You will not do that with ANY std BB, industrial or not. A person that has not ever used a RO box blade probably doesn't realize that it takes only a few seconds to roll the box to where you want it. It's not like you have to stop the tractor and get off and set the teeth to the height that you may need or adjust the top link so that you can smooth out the surface that you are working on. They were state of the art in their day and really have only been replaced as top dog by the industrial box blades of today.

    Just my based on MY experience, others views will vary.
    Hey MtnView,

    Thanks for expressing it better than I can, and with waaaay more experience and credibility.

    I hadn't followed your chain of logic before you stated it, but clearly you must be right- the Roll-overs have been replaced by TnT and other [more complicated and expensive] tech.

    While at we're no where near the power and volume you can move, we have found that the ability to do one thing, then another, and then a third, all without having to make any adjustments to angle of attack etc, and to be able to change tasks by just doing a stop, drop, and roll, of the BB is awesome!

    In addition, when you have a little "underpowered" tractor like our B2320, the ability to scarify, as a single action, move dirt as another, and smooth as a third is amazing. Plus it works well to drag rocks out of the ground so we can pick them up and clear them.

    That's why I started to look for a RO-BB after I had read virtually all of the old posts about box blade choice- because I had figured out how under-powered the B2320 is next to the MF's, White's and AC's of my youth.

    Finally, IMHO, one way or the other, usually multiple passes are going to be required, the RO is just more efficient doing them one at a time.

    Thanks again, for your eloquence!

    As you say YMMV!

    Thomas

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replacing Barn Dirt Floor with Gravel
    By Tim13 in forum Projects
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-18-2012, 08:23 AM
  2. Loader dirt and gravel moving
    By rookiefred in forum Kubota Owning/Operating
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-19-2010, 07:18 AM
  3. Dirt/Gravel Driveway Major Maintenance
    By flyer in forum Owning/Operating
    Replies: 43
    Last Post: 06-04-2007, 10:17 PM
  4. Utility vehicale for hauling dirt and gravel
    By mazurrj in forum ATVs & Utility Vehicles
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 05-19-2007, 09:04 PM
  5. What implement to maintain gravel driveway?
    By canoetrpr in forum Attachments
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 12-18-2005, 06:06 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
© 2014 TractorByNet.com. TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners.