Gravel and Dirt Work - Which implement?

[skoalman12]

I can buy one attachment with my 5093e w/ FEL.

I need to maintain and improve a 1500' gravel road and entrance. I want to be able to pull gravel from the edges, back up to the middle crown, and then smooth back out.
I have about 3500' of dirt roads that are terrible and need grading. Land is sandy and packed, it will take some "digging" in of the implement to get it nice.
Need to Need to set about 3-4 pipe in ditches
Need to be able to maintain and dig/improve drainage
Also I have two fresh water lines that the dirt sunk into, i need to go back and pull the dirt from the sides and into the hole to crown back up.

Which implement does everyone suggest? I'm leaning toward a rear blade, even though they are harder to use. Seems like most ppl here recommend a box blade though.

 

[TerryR]

Lots of folks here are very fond of their box blades, but I find a rear blade works well for maintaining the kind of road you describe. My road is about the same length as yours, fairly steep, with three sharp corners and different banking in various sections. I have the same issue with the gravel being thrown into the ditch. The rear blade, properly set, does a great job of recovering it, as well as maintaining the crown and side-slopes. It does take some skill to use it successfully, I'll admit.

Terry

 

[skoalman12]

Thanks for the feedback. My dad has also maintained his road with a rear blade, and i know it takes skill. but I have dirt work to get good with it first, before i tackle the road.

 

[bglz42]

I vote for angle blade on that work. I use my box blade to spread new material, but I use my angle blade to crown and smooth the surface...

 

[LD1]

If you have three sets of rear remotes, I would suggest a rear blade with power angle and add a top and tilt to the 3PH

 

[schmism]

nothing beats a rear blade for maintaining gravel roads and can do light ditching with a Heavy duty rear blade.

but nothing cuts and fills like a box blade

for your project i dont think youll be happy with just one or the other

 

[skoalman12]

nothing beats a rear blade for maintaining gravel roads and can do light ditching with a Heavy duty rear blade.

but nothing cuts and fills like a box blade

for your project i dont think youll be happy with just one or the other

I was afraid someone would say that

 

[DKCDKC]

I have a full mile of gravel drive, with several sharp curves and hills. I have a box blade, rear blade and rock rake. The box blade is the most useful generally, not only on the road but with other dirt handling. You can angle and rotate a BB to so ditch work, smoothing and even tilling. The blade is good for working the road sometimes to pull gravel in and to crown - although crowning is only something for roads in relatively flat areas. Steep hills require a more complex bit of shaping to divert water. A rock rake or landscape rake is great for touch-up, pulling leaves off, pulling gravel out of grass and pulling bigger rocks out of roadways and gardens.

All three of my grading implements are solid, and all were purchased used. Got the BB on a barter - it was rusted, but a little TLC and paint and it looks new. The blade too came on a barter - for a hotel stay I couldn't get to. It's light duty, but works on a CUT just fine. The rock rake was bought from an equipment rental company auction. It's bent a bit, but I just bent the teeth to a straight line and it works beautifully. I paid $150 for it.

All three implements are great for their own job. Consider acquiring all three - and if you go used you might spend less for three than you would for one new. Used is good because these implements are made out of heavy metal and there is little you can do to really screw them up without it being obvious.

 

[Halftrack]

We bought this LandPride combination rake and blade to do yard finishing originally. As it ends up, we like it better for maintaining the gravel drives and finish grading. The blade swings down and has removable end plates, similar to a box blade. I cobbled the chain top link to allow finishing above or below grade, but you can still pick up the wheels to back or turn. A solid top link amplifies every lift arm movement, this minimizes them.The only issue I see would be with your packed driveways, you may have to either add weight or wait till after a rain to get penetration. If you could find/ order something similar without the rake, I think you would be satisfied.

 

[jenkinsph]

I recommend you get a heavy duty rearblade with hydraulic control. This isn't going to be cheap and it isn't all you need but it's a good start. Do the best you can and make a cheap drag of sorts until the time you can buy/build a landplane and boxblade in that order.