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12-28-2012, 09:17 PM #31Veteran Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
positions or actions? Sorry, I'm not trying to nit pick I just don't understand. Pull the lever one way, the rake turns clockwise, then counter cc when pushed the other direction.
I'm assuming that's a double acting valve with a center off. I have exactly twenty minutes familiarity with this so sorry to be so stupid here.
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12-28-2012, 09:35 PM #32Elite Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
5 foot implements with a 5740.
As far as if you have the float function on any of your rear remotes, push the control lever forward just like the loader joystick. Once it has moved to what seems like it's limits, then push it a bit further and it should lock into the float detent position. Try that with each lever and you will find out IF you have the float position with any of them and how many if any.
Good luck.
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12-28-2012, 10:43 PM #33
Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
I haven't run my PHD in a while but, if I remember correctly, the top link is not used. Don't know what the "Tilt" would help in using a PHD.
Sometimes the "Top" could be used to apply down pressure but it requires a special set-up with additional connections. Others can tell you more.
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12-28-2012, 11:13 PM #34Elite Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
Sorry, got sidetracked, yes the tilt cylinder works great for getting the PHD plumb or at an angle if that it what you want.
I know that you didn't ask, but for others, YOU SHOULD NOT attempt to use a top link for a down pressure unit on a PHD.
Down pressure kits for a PHD are single acting hydraulics with relief valves and other custom linkage to be able to have everything work properly and safely.
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12-29-2012, 08:45 AM #35
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12-29-2012, 09:59 AM #36Veteran Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
Understood, 10-4, no downforce on the top link. The bigger phd's have that as an option, but I have Land Prides's
small one, and it works fine for what I need. We have so many rocks here that the bit is trying to bore to China usually, getting pulled in by
a rock. I'm happy to take my time and let it grind away.2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long grapple, 1986 Case IH 255, Land Pride PD10 PHD, Land Pride RCR60 mower, Land Pride box blade and rear rake, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mower, Gravely snowblower, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,Ariens snowblower, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2006 JD LX280, , 1968 Cub Cadet 125, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter 2012 Suburban 2500
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12-29-2012, 10:24 AM #37Super Star Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
I can understand your difficulty, if I didn't have reference point such as with my 7' box scraper or 6' rotary cutter, I would have a permanent crick in my neck and make a mess for sure. I have seen some people use markers such as are mounted on the front bumpers of trucks as reference points, but I have no experience with them and would probably just tear them off the way I use my tractors.
I got a 7' box scraper as I use it on our M8540 too, but a 6' will work fine on yours. Land Pride makes some nice ones depending on how much you want to pay. I really don't have any experience with other brands. I like hydraulic scarifiers, but you sure pay for them.
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12-29-2012, 10:24 AM #38Elite Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
Last edited by MtnViewRanch; 12-29-2012 at 11:43 AM.
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12-29-2012, 10:49 AM #39Veteran Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long grapple, 1986 Case IH 255, Land Pride PD10 PHD, Land Pride RCR60 mower, Land Pride box blade and rear rake, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mower, Gravely snowblower, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,Ariens snowblower, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2006 JD LX280, , 1968 Cub Cadet 125, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter 2012 Suburban 2500
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12-29-2012, 12:12 PM #40Elite Member
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Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt
The problem is that it would be just about impossible to always be able to have the double acting cylinder move at the same rate as the 3pt hitch. There needs to be some sort of safety device built into the whole setup which is where the whole down pressure kit works out so very well. Not so hard to have it work going down, but you would be in trouble when raising the PHD. This is not to say that "IT can't be done" just why go to all the trouble to be able to do it safely with a double acting cylinder when there is a kit available to do it relatively simple using a single acting cylinder.
This probably isn't explaining it to the degree that you would like, but it is all I have for this time.
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