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  1. #41
    Gold Member Gem99ultra's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    446
    Location
    Warm Springs, GA
    Tractor
    Kubota L3400HST

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    Baby Grand, having a TnT will be your best purchase ever made for labor savings. Changing angles will be a simple as reaching over and tapping the lever. I use mine continuously - when changing attachments - it's a life saver. Being a one man operation here, WoW - makes hooking up a piece of cake, no matter what the slope your attachment is sitting on.

    You mentioned using one with a tiller - I have, and it's a very nice feature. It's also great with a BB, rake, PHD, discing, brush hogging... I'm just at a loss as to where you would never enjoy having a TnT. Money well spent!

  2. #42
    Elite Member Baby Grand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    3,292
    Location
    Windsor, CT.
    Tractor
    L3240GST, B2320HST, B5100D & G5200H

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    Thanks for the encouragement, Gem - I think this will be the year that I do it. Will have to start pestering Brian, at Fit Rite Hydraulics.
    That's the problem with trouble.
    It always starts out as such fun."
    - Randall Brown

  3. #43
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    6,995
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    Quote Originally Posted by Baby Grand View Post
    Thanks for the encouragement, Gem - I think this will be the year that I do it. Will have to start pestering Brian, at Fit Rite Hydraulics.
    $600+ shipping costs gets you a complete "TnT" kit for your GL3240. Do you already have the rear remotes?
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  4. #44
    Elite Member Baby Grand's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    3,292
    Location
    Windsor, CT.
    Tractor
    L3240GST, B2320HST, B5100D & G5200H

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    $600+ shipping costs gets you a complete "TnT" kit for your GL3240. Do you already have the rear remotes?
    No, no remotes yet, so I need those and to tap into the hydraulics, too.
    That's the problem with trouble.
    It always starts out as such fun."
    - Randall Brown

  5. #45
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    4,059
    Location
    Holland, PA
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740, Case IH 255, Gravely 8199G

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    a little update report on my new TopNTilt from FitRite:

    Yesterday I went to change from my rear rake to my ballast box, thinking, yes, now all I have to do is push levers.
    Yeah right. The hydraulic side came all the way down nicely, but the left side had to be manually adjusted to get down far enough. Ok, that's
    not hard, and once I pulled the sliding cover up it turned nicely and everything was at the right height. But the ends still would not go in because of course it was
    misaligned slightly, and even playing with the top cylinder did nothing but make it worse. So here I am once again with a seriously bad back pushing up against an 800
    pound ballast box to get it hooked up. Well of course finally it all went on, and after the fact I sprayed some lube on the fittings.

    But this sure taught me that tnt is no substitute for a quick hitch. That's next. This stuff is too heavy for me, and I'm going to hurt myself doing what I truly love, so better be
    smart about it. Ok Kubota owners, who has Pat's and who has the oem/copy quick hitch? Does having two rear hydraulic hitch cylinders make one work any better, or worse?

    And now that I've figured out the benefit of opening the rear window so I can peer out and down a little better, I can actually see what's going on, and I'm hoping I can re-enact those wonderful
    factory videos where Joe Homeowner in dress clothes is backing up, attaching, and off he goes. It's taken me about 50 hours of operation for this light to go on. Those twirly ball ends seem destined
    to misalign. Maybe they should make them magnetic or something so they click right together, but until they do, it's quick hitch time for me. I change a lot of implements, this is not a single purpose tractor, so
    good thing I have a birthday coming up...

  6. #46
    Veteran Member gwdixon's Avatar
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    Jul 2009
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    2,397
    Location
    Northern CA

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    I'd get a Pat's if I were you and the various implements had different widths between the lift pins. CAT 1, CAT 2, and homemade are examples of lift pin differences.

    Even when the lift pins are at an angle or out of line the Pat's just lift up and one side hooks and then the other. A T&T makes it easier by perfectly aligning the lift arms to the implement. You can also back up with the Pat's hook just below the lift pins and push the implement slightly to move one side and line up the implement to the tractor.

    If you don't want to get off the tractor to hook up the top link with the Pat's then one of the frame-type quick hitches may work for you. Just make sure everything that will be attached is the perfect dimension to hook right up. Some cutting, welding, fabricating, and modifications may be necessary. Some folks find the effort is worth it in the long run - especially if switching implements several times a day.

    (BTW, doesn't the L5740 have the extendable lower arms to aid when the lift arms and implement are in misaligned situations.)
    2009 Kubota M7040, R1s, LA1153 FEL, fork lift, 3 rear remotes, T&T
    2002 Kubota L48 TLB, 12", 18", 24" HD buckets
    2001 Kubota BX2200, Turf, LA211 FEL
    7.5' Howse 3PT disc, 88" Gearmore 4G4 box scraper, 4' box scraper, Gearmore GB85 blade, LandPride RCR2596 cutter, 6', 4' flail mowers, 6', 4' rototiller, 4' Bush Hog cutter, HD subsoiler, Bearcat 70554 chipper, Bush Hog PHD w/ 12", 6" augers, Ford 101 3-bottom plow, 8' land leveler, 6' rake, lots of misc.

  7. #47
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    4,059
    Location
    Holland, PA
    Tractor
    Kubota L5740, Case IH 255, Gravely 8199G

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    (BTW, doesn't the L5740 have the extendable lower arms to aid when the lift arms and implement are in misaligned situations.)
    yes, that helped, but not when on the wrong angle.
    I don't mind getting off the tractor once or twice.
    It's three or four times or more that drive me nuts.

    With practice, this will get better. But it will get better quickly if I get a quick hitch.
    2012 Kubota L5740HSTC3 with FEL and Long grapple, 1986 Case IH 255, Land Pride PD10 PHD, Land Pride RCR60 & RCF2084 mowers, Land Pride 4' box blade and rear rake, Fred Cain subsoiler, County Line potato plow, County Line 1 bottom plow, 1986 Gravely 8199G with tow behind DR rototiller, 50" deck+40" Gravely wing mower, Gravely snowblower, Swisher 44 rough cut mower,Ariens snowblower, Echo 450-18 & 600-24, Echo PPT280, 2006 JD LX280, , 1968 Cub Cadet 125, Husky-Speeco 35 ton splitter

  8. #48
    Elite Member
    Advertiser
    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    6,995
    Location
    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    [QUOTE=daugen;3133543]a little update report on my new TopNTilt from FitRite:

    Yesterday I went to change from my rear rake to my ballast box, thinking, yes, now all I have to do is push levers.
    Yeah right. The hydraulic side came all the way down nicely, but the left side had to be manually adjusted to get down far enough. Ok, that's
    not hard, and once I pulled the sliding cover up it turned nicely and everything was at the right height. But the ends still would not go in because of course it was
    misaligned slightly, and even playing with the top cylinder did nothing but make it worse. So here I am once again with a seriously bad back pushing up against an 800
    pound ballast box to get it hooked up. Well of course finally it all went on, and after the fact I sprayed some lube on the fittings.

    But this sure taught me that tnt is no substitute for a quick hitch. That's next. This stuff is too heavy for me, and I'm going to hurt myself doing what I truly love, so better be
    smart about it. Ok Kubota owners, who has Pat's and who has the oem/copy quick hitch? Does having two rear hydraulic hitch cylinders make one work any better, or worse?

    QUOTE]

    I'm very confused. Why would you have to adjust the left side down? Why would you not just lower the 3pt hitch? Can't you reach the 3pt lever from the right side of the tractor?

    If you have the money, the Delta Hook is the best Quick Hitch available IMO.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  9. #49
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    8,831
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    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: 5 best uses for Top and Tilt

    I set the manual adjustment in the middle most of the time to allow tilting both left and right with the hydraulics, this works well for most jobs. On a few occasions using a rearblade I have shortened the manual adjustment so that I could tilt further to the ditch side. Using the IMatch which should work regardless of the tractor brand I can back up to implements and tilt the hitch to match the implements even if these are setting off angle with no problem.

    I am with Brian on this, if you back up to the implement and adjust the rockshaft so that it aligns with the left hitch pin then tilt the hitch so that the right also aligns you should be good to go. This works well with the quick hitch and with telescopic links but if you don't have either I will typically do the same thing but adjust the lift arms about a 1/4" below the pins and manually lift the arms to install the pins on each side.

    I have about thirty three point implements and have only one or two that are not set up for IMatch. If I build an attachment I build it to Imatch specs, if I buy a new implement I buy one that is IMatch ready or one that I can easily convert to it. When the first IMatch was brought home we spent the better part of a day making all the old implements fit. This was one of the best things I have ever done, that was over three years ago, now changing implements is something I can do on a whim. More importantly, if you have the attachments to do the best job at hand there is no need to be reluctant to change them out since it is so easy to do.

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