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  1. #1
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    430
    Location
    Northeast & FL
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 FEL, Ford 3400TLB, Ford 8N

    Default Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    I do not have rear remotes, and even if I did, I might not spend the money for a hydraulic top link.
    The "Hydraulink" may be just the ticket for me!
    I need to be able to adjust the tilt/cutting angle of my 3pt. forks/rear blade/box blade/tiller/bush hog etc. from the tractor seat.
    The "Hydraulink" seems like a reasonable solution, at a very reasonable cost.
    It is available in both CAT l and CAT ll versions.
    If you put "Hydraulink" in Google, you will see several U-Tube videos available.
    There are reviews posted, on the Northern Tool website.
    I just stumbled on the CAT ll version being CLOSED OUT at Agri Supply for $134.88, which is a super price.
    A CAT ll model will work on a CAT l tractor. The only downside seems to be that the CAT ll model weighs 26 lbs., while the CAT l weighs in at 15 lbs. The CAT l at Northern is $249.99, and the CAT ll version is $299.99.
    I will bush the 1" ends on the CAT ll down to 3/4" for CAT l.
    The CAT ll is going to be best for me also, because I have the "Pats easy change" system, and it requires the greater top link length of the CAT ll model.
    The "Hydraulink" has been around for a good while, and is apparently made in New Zealand.
    I am away from my tractor for the Winter, but have ordered the "Hydraulink" from Agri Supply, and will try it out in the Spring.

  2. #2
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    5,167
    Location
    Fanning Springs, Gilchirst County, North-Central Florida
    Tractor
    Kubota Tractor Loader L3560 HST 37-hp / 5,400 pounds

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    HydrauLinks were originally US produced.

    Now produced in "far East", unless things have changed recently. Fit/finish less good. Work equally well.

    Good for rear blade / box blade / tiller / light bush hog etc. (May not lift tail wheel of a heavy Bush Hog.)
    Not sure about Three Point Hitch forks.

    Not good for Tandem Disc Harrows nor turning plows, which require a rigid Top Link.
    Last edited by jeff9366; Yesterday at 05:56 PM.

  3. #3
    Super Star Member ovrszd's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    13,097
    Location
    Missouri
    Tractor
    Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, JD2210

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Understand the CAT II ends are larger and bulkier. I'm not just talking about the inside diameter, which you already know you have to deal with. I'm talking about the outter size of each end. Make sure your tractor has enough space around the top link pin to accommodate this larger end.

    Post pics and comments next Spring when you start using it.
    Richard

    "Happiness isn't having everything you want, it's wanting everything you have."

  4. #4
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    430
    Location
    Northeast & FL
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 FEL, Ford 3400TLB, Ford 8N

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Quote Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
    Understand the CAT II ends are larger and bulkier. I'm not just talking about the inside diameter, which you already know you have to deal with. I'm talking about the outter size of each end. Make sure your tractor has enough space around the top link pin to accommodate this larger end.

    Post pics and comments next Spring when you start using it.


    Oops ....did not consider the larger end size!
    If need be, I think I can just cut the CAT ll ends off, and weld on CAT l ball ends.
    Posting pictures on this site?
    I find that VERY difficult!

  5. #5
    Super Star Member ovrszd's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    13,097
    Location
    Missouri
    Tractor
    Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, JD2210

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Posting Pictures:

    Click on "Go Advanced".
    Click on the "Blue A" at the far left end of the top icon bar above.
    PLACE YOUR CURSOR WHERE YOU WANT THE PIC TO APPEAR.
    Click on the square picture with black dots in the corners, second row of icons above, sixth from the right. If you put your pointer on that icon it will say "Insert Image".
    Follow the directions. You have a choice of using "computer" or "Url". I use computer. Don't forget to click on "upload file" after you have selected your pic.
    Double left click on the picture. A menu box will appear on the screen. Choose a size. I use "full size".
    The pic should now appear in whatever size you have selected.
    Click "submit reply".

    You'll have a pic such as this one.



    Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"-dsc06304-jpg
    Richard

    "Happiness isn't having everything you want, it's wanting everything you have."

  6. #6
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    430
    Location
    Northeast & FL
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 FEL, Ford 3400TLB, Ford 8N

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Quote Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
    Posting Pictures:

    Click on "Go Advanced".
    Click on the "Blue A" at the far left end of the top icon bar above.
    PLACE YOUR CURSOR WHERE YOU WANT THE PIC TO APPEAR.
    Click on the square picture with black dots in the corners, second row of icons above, sixth from the right. If you put your pointer on that icon it will say "Insert Image".
    Follow the directions. You have a choice of using "computer" or "Url". I use computer. Don't forget to click on "upload file" after you have selected your pic.
    Double left click on the picture. A menu box will appear on the screen. Choose a size. I use "full size".
    The pic should now appear in whatever size you have selected.
    Click "submit reply".

    You'll have a pic such as this one.



    Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"-dsc06304-jpg
    Nice picture!
    Perhaps I will give it a try with my newly refurbished 1920, or my also newly refurbished 3400TLB.
    Thank you for the information on how to do it!

  7. #7
    Super Member s219's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,738
    Location
    Virginia USA
    Tractor
    Kubota L3200 Deere X380 Kubota RTV-X

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Quote Originally Posted by fried1765 View Post
    I do not have rear remotes, and even if I did, I might not spend the money for a hydraulic top link.
    The "Hydraulink" may be just the ticket for me!
    I need to be able to adjust the tilt/cutting angle of my 3pt. forks/rear blade/box blade/tiller/bush hog etc. from the tractor seat.
    The "Hydraulink" seems like a reasonable solution, at a very reasonable cost.
    It is available in both CAT l and CAT ll versions.
    If you put "Hydraulink" in Google, you will see several U-Tube videos available.
    There are reviews posted, on the Northern Tool website.
    I just stumbled on the CAT ll version being CLOSED OUT at Agri Supply for $134.88, which is a super price.
    A CAT ll model will work on a CAT l tractor. The only downside seems to be that the CAT ll model weighs 26 lbs., while the CAT l weighs in at 15 lbs. The CAT l at Northern is $249.99, and the CAT ll version is $299.99.
    I will bush the 1" ends on the CAT ll down to 3/4" for CAT l.
    The CAT ll is going to be best for me also, because I have the "Pats easy change" system, and it requires the greater top link length of the CAT ll model.
    The "Hydraulink" has been around for a good while, and is apparently made in New Zealand.
    I am away from my tractor for the Winter, but have ordered the "Hydraulink" from Agri Supply, and will try it out in the Spring.

    I think the Hydraulink is fine when you consider it to be a new/different type of *manually* adjustable top-link, but that's not even close to the utility/capability of a true hydraulic top link. On many large tractors, you can't reach the top link whether it's screw type or Hydraulink, so it's not going to help a bit there. That was the main reason I wanted/needed a hydraulic top link on my second tractor.

    The real cost in having a hydraulic top link is usually the hydraulic valves and plumbing. But if you already have that stuff, you can put together a hydraulic top link on a budget. I paid $200 for my hydraulic top link and another $50 for custom hoses.

  8. #8
    Elite Member Rustyiron's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    2,948
    Location
    Lakes Region, Maine
    Tractor
    M 9540 Kubota

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Thanks for the pic lesson Richard, I've been doing another way and you have to "click" on it to view it in a decent size.
    yeah!






    Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"-dscn7332-jpg

  9. #9
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1,716
    Location
    SW Indiana
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    If you missed it, here's a thread by someone within the company, maybe the inventor:

    http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/a...-air-over.html

  10. #10
    Gold Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    430
    Location
    Northeast & FL
    Tractor
    Ford 1920 4x4 FEL, Ford 3400TLB, Ford 8N

    Default Re: Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

    Quote Originally Posted by s219 View Post
    I think the Hydraulink is fine when you consider it to be a new/different type of *manually* adjustable top-link, but that's not even close to the utility/capability of a true hydraulic top link. On many large tractors, you can't reach the top link whether it's screw type or Hydraulink, so it's not going to help a bit there. That was the main reason I wanted/needed a hydraulic top link on my second tractor.

    The real cost in having a hydraulic top link is usually the hydraulic valves and plumbing. But if you already have that stuff, you can put together a hydraulic top link on a budget. I paid $200 for my hydraulic top link and another $50 for custom hoses.
    All of what you say may be true!
    I do not have a "large tractor"
    As I pointed out, I DO NOT have any "valves and plumbing" available at the rear of the tractor (Ford 1920).
    My total cost for hydraulic plumbing, and a true hydraulic top link would likely be in excess of $800.
    I do believe that I can easily reach the "Hydraulink" adjusting valve without getting off my tractor.
    As Richard has pointed out, the CAT ll ends may not fit my CAT l tractor, but I can fix that with a welder, and two CAT l replacement ends.
    My tractors are toys for me, so I do not need all sorts of wiz bang stuff.
    I like things that will accomplish what I want, yet in the simplest manner possible.
    If the "Hydraulink" does not work out, I am only down $155.
    In my earlier years I might have "spilled" more than that!

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