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  1. #11
    Elite Member
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    MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    7,364
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    4000\' mountains of Southern California
    Tractor
    Mahindra 7520, Mahindra 3215HST, Case 580 extendahoe, Case 310 dozer, Parsons trencher, Cat D6,

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by Gordon Gould View Post
    Brian, while you are here kindly answering questions I have one. I notice that you now provide flow restricters with your kits. These did not come with my older kit but I don't seem to have any trouble adjusting either the top or side links with the precision I need. Why do you now include these ? And would they make my life even easier if I added them? I have factory kubota remote valves on my L3010. Thanks for taking the time to help.

    gg
    Gordon, I feel that for most people, it makes the adjustments much easier to make. Some of it is the type of valve that a person has, others just have a knack for it. I believe that it would make adjustments easier for you. I know that I could hardly believe the difference (HUGE) in using the flow restrictor vs the needle valves that I use to use on my 3215. I had the needle valves adjusted as tight as I could have them and still have the hydraulics work. They were still a little fast for me, but managable. When I changed over to just having my single OEM valve operate 3 diverter valves for my now 4 rear remotes, WOW, soooooooooooooo much better. Hard to believe that they work so good.

    The last picture is how my 2 spool valve was on the tractor, worked fine, but I needed more remotes than the 3 that I had, so I decided to clean everything up a bit.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -p1020048-jpg   -p1020037-jpg   -p1020290-jpg   -p1020039-jpg   -img_0144-jpg  

    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  2. #12
    Super Member
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    Feb 2008
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    9,332
    Location
    somewhere usa
    Tractor
    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by kennyd View Post
    Steve, I think you are confusing the 600psi spec on the DPOCV's unless I am misreading your post. The 600 psi number is the "cracking" pressure, in other words it needs to see at least that amount on the input side before it will allow fluid to flow to the out side or allow the cylinder to move. It can certainly hold more than 600 psi.

    Kennyd, you are correct, the check valves will hold a high pressure against the cylinder. My issue is with the 600 psi needed to release the valves makes the cylinders much harder to adjust smoothly, or should I say hard to feather. I would agree that if you are using the check valves you would be better served to have flow restrictors too. This would restrict and slow the movement of the cylinders down to a manageable speed. But, so far I seem to be able to manage very well without any of this and can make slow or fast adjustments without the need to pause. I will think about this next time I am grading though.

  3. #13
    Super Member 94BULLITT's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
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    7,238
    Location
    Frederick County, VA
    Tractor
    Kubota BX2360 & L4240 HSTC

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by jenkinsph View Post
    Brian you are correct, the check valves will hold a high pressure against the cylinder. My issue is with the 600 psi needed to release the valves makes the cylinders much harder to adjust smoothly, or should I say hard to feather. I would agree that if you are using the check valves you would be better served to have flow restrictors too. This would restrict and slow the movement of the cylinders down to a manageable speed. But, so far I seem to be able to manage very well without any of this and can make slow or fast adjustments without the need to pause. I will think about this next time I am grading though.
    What kind of TNT do you have? I think my kubota TNT has restrictors built into the cylinders because the hole in the cylinder goes down to maybe 5/16'' or 1/4.''

  4. #14
    Super Member
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    Feb 2008
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    somewhere usa
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    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Looks good Brian, I might do something similar on my 4520 with the third hydraulics on the rear. If I go with a new rearblade I would need to have another set or two of outlets and that is a good cheap way to get there. Currently have three on the rear but five would handle everything I can think of.

  5. #15
    Super Member
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    Feb 2008
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    9,332
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    somewhere usa
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    Deere 110tlb, 4520, x749, L130

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by 94BULLITT View Post
    What kind of TNT do you have? I think my kubota TNT has restrictors built into the cylinders because the hole in the cylinder goes down to maybe 5/16'' or 1/4.''
    I have the Deere factory tnt set.

  6. #16
    Super Member 94BULLITT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    7,238
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    Frederick County, VA
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    Kubota BX2360 & L4240 HSTC

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    Gordon, I feel that for most people, it makes the adjustments much easier to make. Some of it is the type of valve that a person has, others just have a knack for it. I believe that it would make adjustments easier for you. I know that I could hardly believe the difference (HUGE) in using the flow restrictor vs the needle valves that I use to use on my 3215. I had the needle valves adjusted as tight as I could have them and still have the hydraulics work. They were still a little fast for me, but managable. When I changed over to just having my single OEM valve operate 3 diverter valves for my now 4 rear remotes, WOW, soooooooooooooo much better. Hard to believe that they work so good.

    The last picture is how my 2 spool valve was on the tractor, worked fine, but I needed more remotes than the 3 that I had, so I decided to clean everything up a bit.
    Looks good. What kind of divertor valves are those?

    Quote Originally Posted by jenkinsph View Post
    I have the Deere factory tnt set.
    I'll take a picture of mine sometime so you guys can see it.

  7. #17
    Veteran Member Gordon Gould's Avatar
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    Apr 2007
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    2,042
    Location
    NorthEastern, VT
    Tractor
    Kubota L3010DT, Dresser TD7G Dozer

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Thanks Brian. Very nice "clean-up" job.
    "If you're not making any mistakes then you're not doing anything"

    L3010DT, Farmi JL290 Winch, ATI Grapple, BearCat 5" Chipper, 6' Rear Blade,
    7' Sickle Bar, 5' Land Plane Grading Scraper, Dresser TD7G Dozer

  8. #18
    Platinum Member
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    May 2008
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    962
    Location
    Prince Edward Island, Canada
    Tractor
    Kioti DK45SC

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    I don't want to divert the discussion too much, but wondered whether anyone with a hydraulic top link had to change the top link hanger. My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
    BOB

  9. #19
    Advertiser kennyd's Avatar
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    Jul 2003
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    11,658
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    Westminster, MD
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    John Deere 4110, 455

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by rd_macgregor View Post
    I don't want to divert the discussion too much, but wondered whether anyone with a hydraulic top link had to change the top link hanger. My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
    BOB
    I use a iMatch QH so I never need to hang my HTL.
    KennyD
    www.boltonhooks.com



    Bolt On Grab Hooks, Weld On Grab Hooks, Specialty Chain Accessories, Specialty Hydraulic Components.

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  10. #20
    Gold Member
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    Apr 2011
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    351
    Tractor
    John Deere 2720

    Default Re: after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you her

    Quote Originally Posted by rd_macgregor View Post
    My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
    BOB
    Yep! Bungie cord!

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