PTO Post Hole Digger Auger Sizing for 6" CCA Posts - 9" or 12"?

[SanDucerro]

What I was talking about is ROUND metal posts. Not "T" posts.

The round metal posts are substantially more in price than the wood CCA posts. Last I checked the metal posts were in the $32+ range (if I remember correctly) - and the bid I got for a full metal install would confirm the extra expense. In contrast, the 6" round wood CCA posts are available for under $25. I also think the wood posts will give a bit more rustic look to the property and will go well with the barn we have planned.

 

[EddieWalker]

Once I've done the post for the deer fence (6" CCA), then the rest of the project would be the trellis posts (4" to 5" CCA) - so theoretically I'll only have to switch once. But having said that, I'd have 4" per side with the 12" auger on the trellis posts and that does seem to be that much now that I think about it.

You are assuming that you will get the hole perfectly straight and spaced. My guess is that you will find that with a 12 inch hole, those smaller posts will be off to one side of the hole by the time you fill in the hole. I'm also going to guess that it changes with every hole. If you get one in four that are perfectly centered, I would be very surprised.

Instead of buying a second auger, spend the money on a very good, high quality clam shell digger. Even if you get the hole perfect, you might still want to clean up the bottom of the hole before putting the post in there.

Another thing to remember is that it's very hard to get the depth perfect every time. Be sure to have a few rocks available to put under the post to build up the height. I don't like to use dirt for this because it settles.

Only use one or two rocks. You never want to have a bunch of rocks at the bottom of a hole because that is where moisture will collect and remain. Lots of rocks create a cavity, storage area for water/moisture.

In every rotten fence post that I've ever come across, the rot is "ALWAYS" at ground level. pack the post tight and build up a crown or slope around the post to get water away from it. Then in a year, go back and build it up again because it will settle/wash away.

Eddie

 

[SanDucerro]

In every rotten fence post that I've ever come across, the rot is "ALWAYS" at ground level. pack the post tight and build up a crown or slope around the post to get water away from it. Then in a year, go back and build it up again because it will settle/wash away.

Eddie

Good advice! Thanks!

 

[Case485Guy]

You are assuming that you will get the hole perfectly straight and spaced. My guess is that you will find that with a 12 inch hole, those smaller posts will be off to one side of the hole by the time you fill in the hole. I'm also going to guess that it changes with every hole. If you get one in four that are perfectly centered, I would be very surprised.

Instead of buying a second auger, spend the money on a very good, high quality clam shell digger. Even if you get the hole perfect, you might still want to clean up the bottom of the hole before putting the post in there.

Another thing to remember is that it's very hard to get the depth perfect every time. Be sure to have a few rocks available to put under the post to build up the height. I don't like to use dirt for this because it settles.

Only use one or two rocks. You never want to have a bunch of rocks at the bottom of a hole because that is where moisture will collect and remain. Lots of rocks create a cavity, storage area for water/moisture.

In every rotten fence post that I've ever come across, the rot is "ALWAYS" at ground level. pack the post tight and build up a crown or slope around the post to get water away from it. Then in a year, go back and build it up again because it will settle/wash away.

Eddie

I will disagree with the 12" hole and getting the post off due to the hole being big. When i did my straight line for the fence line, I used fishing line and strung it as tight as I could get it,keeping close to the ground. Visually get the line straight, I basically use a piece of wire that I could pick the line up some and walked the line, placing it straight. Initially the line with catch on a clump here,twig there etc. Then I step off for my post and paint an X on the ground with marking paint. Pull line up and and go to each X and drill, I put to point of the auger on the X. Now on my post hole digger I welded a rod on the gear box and a rod on the frame the gear box hangs off of. Line these 2 rods up and its a straight hole going down, some adjustments will have to made according to the hole. The line up rods greatly improves the auger going down straight when I am working by myself. With out them its hard to tell from the seat if the auger is angled. Anyways the 12" hole made it alot easier to set the posts straight just due to the room available to adjust the post around..
Do agree on the rot and thats what we do