DUO Chains - planned modifications

[kco]

I think I would need to get a machine shop to build spacers. I read some threads here that suggest the cost would be $400 or greater. Here is one thread from 2008:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/c...ers-kioti.html

where a Kioti owner paid $400. I recall seeing other threads that suggested that price range.

As long as my chains are installed properly they work fine. The small clearance is to a large upright member supporting the operator platform and ROPS and there is no rubbing on it. But I do have to make sure there are no loose or protruding parts. The member is visible in the photo in post #17 of this thread. Clearance to sheet metal is good.

[kco]

RedNeckRacin, your comments re: spacers led me to more information.

Spacers are available for my tractor in the price range you mentioned.

Attached pds's show a couple of items from EBay that were built by Bro-Tek. None of this was obvious when I visited Bro-Tek's site last year.

Better photos can be seen by searching the EBay completed listings. Here are the links:

Kubota BX, John deere 2305, Massey Ferguson GC2400/10 & GC2600 wheel spacers | eBay

John Deere 4310 wheel spacers kit rear axle, adds 4 inch width | eBay

I contacted Bro-Tek and found they have DK35 spacers for $240 + $40 shipping = $280. I'm not purchasing them right now and will decide when I modify and test my chains later this spring.

I like Bro-Tek's design for the spacers. They're milled from one piece of aluminum with a hub flange to carry the weight and they come with bolts. I like the design where the spacer bolts to the wheel mount and then the wheel fastens to the spacer with separate bolts. Some spacers just bolt the wheel and spacer straight-through to the wheel mount with longer bolts.

Bro-Tek's site could use some updating. It isn't apparent that spacers are even available. I found better information from this instruction for installing Kubota BX spacers and it includes information on other products such as skid plates. The .pdf is available at this link:

www.bro-tek.com/BX-Wheel_Spacer_Instruction.pdf


..which I found through a Search. There does not seem to be a link to the document from the main page. I can't attach the document here because it exceeds TBN's 1 MB limit.

Bro-Tek's site is at Bro-Tek: Tractor Add Ons

So...I may reconsider your suggestion since quality spacers are available at a good price. Besides giving additional clearance for chains the extra stability would be nice for hills.

[RedNeckRacin]

Ah, very nice. I figured someone made a quality spacer at a decent price. It sounded like a real pain flattening all of those links to get the clearance that you needed!

[RedNeckRacin]

WEll, I got my chains modified but not without bending the snot out of that cheap tire chain tool. I finished one set and they didn't survive to complete the next set. Good thing I had some additional side hooks that were already open and I could just cut the old ones off and crimp the new ones shut! It made quite a difference in the little bit that I got to test them outtoday! I dont know if its in my head or not but they seem to feel alot heavier to!

[kco]

WEll, I got my chains modified but not without bending the snot out of that cheap tire chain tool. I finished one set and they didn't survive to complete the next set. Good thing I had some additional side hooks that were already open and I could just cut the old ones off and crimp the new ones shut! It made quite a difference in the little bit that I got to test them outtoday! I dont know if its in my head or not but they seem to feel alot heavier to!

You must train and lift weights with the Kioit factory filter-installer dude! (See some of the horror stories of removing the filters for the 50 hr service).

Did you buy the large chain tool? Mine is the 3' one and quite substantial. I'm sure I can't bend it.

When opening the side hooks, I place the blunt, 3/8" square shank of a centre punch between the two hooks so they don't close together while prying them open.

My chains still aren't here, so I sent an email Friday. Sure enough, they're at the local office. Someone forgot to call when they arrived. I'll pick them up when I go to town Tuesday.

The weather is great here, the snow is going, and it looks like I could remove the blower and chains. But I've been caught before--I'll wait another week just to be sure.

The extra weight feeling is in your head--if you mangled that chain tool you should not even notice .

[RedNeckRacin]

You must train and lift weights with the Kioit factory filter-installer dude! (See some of the horror stories of removing the filters for the 50 hr service).

Did you buy the large chain tool? Mine is the 3' one and quite substantial. I'm sure I can't bend it.

When opening the side hooks, I place the blunt, 3/8" square shank of a centre punch between the two hooks so they don't close together while prying them open.

My chains still aren't here, so I sent an email Friday. Sure enough, they're at the local office. Someone forgot to call when they arrived. I'll pick them up when I go to town Tuesday.

The weather is great here, the snow is going, and it looks like I could remove the blower and chains. But I've been caught before--I'll wait another week just to be sure.

The extra weight feeling is in your head--if you mangled that chain tool you should not even notice .

Well, I should admit I started using them on the floor, then on a bench and it was definately a work out. YEs I got the biggest ones they had. I had to take some pictures to send to them. I did try and straighten them a little bit to try and use them but that was a waste of time.

[kco]

I got my 8 patterns of bulk DUOs yesterday. I found working on the floor easiest, although I opened all the exiting cross hooks for the 1/2 of the chains on the outside tire wall, while they were mounted on the tractor. That only took about 15 or 20 minutes.

I disassembled the 8 patterns from the cross chains in about 45 minutes, including time to open the hooks with a chisel and vise after removing from the side chain. My using a punch to prevent the cross hooks closing while prying from the side chain did not work out. It looked good when I tried a few on the tractor, but they were not open enough to get the cross chain off the hook.

I took my chains off today(now it's sure to snow!) and rebuilt one chain. Reorganizing all the patterns and adding 4 patterns took a about 2 hours. I had to replace three cross hooks. They likely broke because I had pounded them flat to improve clearance on the tractor. I thought it was fairly easy to open all the hooks. I imagine it took me 10 minutes to open the inside hooks of the 7 patterns.

I gave up trying to prevent the hooks closing (along the side chain) as I opened them with the tool. I simply spread them out again but using the tool horizontally between the two closed stems.

I haven't mounted the chain yet and will likely do the other one first. I'll see how I feel tomorrow as I'm a bit stiff from all the bending and work. (yesterday was yet another birthday, and the bones feel it more!)

I'll post photos when I'm done.

My pliers seem fine and I don't think I came close to stressing them.

[RedNeckRacin]

KCo,

sounds like your having a little better luck than I did! I think the project turned out very well and I did it all in an evening since I was feeling gung-ho. I also had the sample problem with having to "double spread" the side links and that added a considerable amount of time to the project. I'm going to return the tire chain tool and go down the street to the industrial supply wharehouse and get the biggest ones that they make just in case I decide to do this again!

[kco]

I finished the chains Thursday and mounted them today. They are MUCH smoother and will be more effective. Part of my original roughness is that the cross chains are a link longer than they should be, leaving a larger gap between the DUO patterns.

The modifications went much easier than anticipated, taking around 4 hours working time but with lots of breaks.

As hoped, adding 4 patterns to the existing 7 tightened up the end-gap. The DUO patterns end at the best possible location but I will still fill in the end gap with one single cross chain, where I required two cross chains before.

Photos of the original chains:

Attachment 305424





The DUO pattern gap was about 4 tire lugs and 2 cross chains were required to fill the end gap.

Photos of the new chains:





The DUO pattern gap is 2 tire lugs and I will add 1 cross chain to fill the end gap.You can see the gap on the right tire in the last photo.

The original chains made for a rough ride because the inter-pattern gap caused the tractor to go from on the chain, to completely on the ground, and back on the chain. With the new chains the tractor is always riding on one of the cross chains.

[RedNeckRacin]

those look excellent!