John Deere LX5 rotary cutter squealing

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Originally Posted by jrlogan

Thanks Ken. Will give it a try. You're right about the ridiculous prices of JD. I have a larger howse bush hog and I ordered the whole gear box for $320. This gear box is $872, and it's smaller and lighter duty... I'm kind wondering I could put a howse gear box in there and make it work... :thumbsup:

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When the metal is gone from my bush hog brand rotory cutter . the gear box will be put in the carcus of the Mx6 I have. unless sitting so long it to will be rusted out.
Think my next event with farm equipment will be a Pre-Estate sale.
when the J.D. 4520 is worn out still have a A/C WD-45 being patient in the tractor shed.The old girl is gas likes to drink it also. but is all there.
ken

$872 is this a 40 hp gear box .

John Deere Gear Case - DE18961

I can't find a HP rating on it, but it's probably 75ish. JD markets it for their smaller tractors, 50hp and down.

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Originally Posted by Ken

jrlogan I had mentioned the shaft is tapored and looseing the nut allows the shaft to release quickly when struck with sledge hammer.
The last thing you want done is the rotory cutter to fall on you doing this. I secure the cutter shell by chains attached to over head beam in shop.
After secure place I use 4x4 x12" block between stump jumper and frame the blocks near the bolts holding the knives loosen the nut and I use large sockets 3/4 " brake over bar and about 4' cheater bar.
Back the nut off until flush with end of shaft. then hit solid.
I have used this on bush hog, busy bee and J.D. brand of bush hogs some use heat or other methods of freeing the knife bar.
My comment of output shaft like glass is that there is a forum where the MX4-5-6-7 have broken output shafts.
Mine may of had 40 hours on it mowing right of way grass when came apart.
Almost new of another brand was cheaper than repair.
ken

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Ken. Still can't get it off. I realized re-reading your post that we have different setups. Mine doesn't have a nut in the bottom but a bolt, as pictured. I have hit it quite hard with a sledge to no effect. Take a look at the pic. How do I get this thing apart?

Attachment 300179

jrlogan,

Put equally spaced wedges of 2x4 or similar wedges of wood between the jumper and the underside of the mower. Hammer these wedges in equally as far as you can. Now, resecure the bolt, but just allowing enough clearance for the stump jumper to drop when you hit the nut of the bolt with a large sledge hammer. May take a couple of swings but keep the pressure on from the wedges above the stump jumper. It should drop safely on the bolt and easily removed. Now you can access the gear box bolts.

I can see why JD has had problems with the output shaft. No meat in the shaft with the bolt in it. Lousy design. Can you replace the output shaft but with a solid shaft and secured by a nut and cotter pin lock?

Idaho2

Sometimes it just takes a bigger hammer.
if it real rusted some blaster or type of break it loose sprayed on shaft will help there is several brands
still takes a solid hammer blow.
This is a 5' rotory cutter. maybe I'm thinking wrong. That bolt is about the size my lawn mower would have.
ken

I've got steel wedges between the blade holder and the frame, I've hit the bolt so hard the bolt bent. I've heated it with a propane torch. There's got to be something different to do.

time to use that thermonuclear separator!

you should also notice on the top side of the pan that the blade holder is a heavy
steel bar. i would make sure your wedges are above that bar area and not just the
sides of the pan or stump jumper. that will give you pressure on the blade holder
and not just the pan. (maybe you already have this covered)

more heat may be required, keeping in mind you are heating thru the pan first
then into that blade holder which is probably 1" thick, and it's hub that is surrounding
the shaft.

Finally got it. I flipped the cutter over so I could take a full swing with a sledge. Took 2 direct hits to get it. Crazy. After tearing into the gear box I've learned that I have to do a complete rebuild to get to the lower bearings. The parts alone will be almost $200, not to mention all the time. I'm thinking about putting a howse gear box on it and welding in a new splined receiver to match in the blade holder. I can get a new gear box for $320 from howse. What do you guys think? Is there a different brand gear box I should look at?

I also have a howse cutter that I tore into today and I was able to tear it apart and replace the gear box in just a couple hours. Much better design and easier to work on. No thermonuclear separator required!

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Originally Posted by jrlogan

Finally got it. I flipped the cutter over so I could take a full swing with a sledge. Took 2 direct hits to get it. Crazy. After tearing into the gear box I've learned that I have to do a complete rebuild to get to the lower bearings. The parts alone will be almost $200, not to mention all the time. I'm thinking about putting a howse gear box on it and welding in a new splined receiver to match in the blade holder. I can get a new gear box for $320 from howse. What do you guys think? Is there a different brand gear box I should look at?

I also have a howse cutter that I tore into today and I was able to tear it apart and replace the gear box in just a couple hours. Much better design and easier to work on. No thermonuclear separator required!

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Just personal opinion, you've already got the gear box apart...."almost $200" is still cheaper than $320...if it were me, pure stuborness would lead me to the rebuild and reinstall option...I mean, after all you've got the time in it regardless of rebuilding or using a different gearbox...

Rich

Rich. I can be pretty stubborn myself, so I get it. :) But my stubbornness is directed at rebelling against John Deere and their ridiculous prices. If I stick with this gear box by rebuilding it, then I have to deal with it again next time I have problems. Turns out I found a replacement gear box on ebay for $175 delivered. I think the design of the JD is actually inferior, as the new one is a more standard type box with a nut and cotter pin holding the blade holder rather than the silly bolt that I had so much trouble with above. Plus, though I haven't rebuilt one of these gearboxes before, looking at this one, I think it would be quite a chore. I have the gear box removed, but not apart. I think the bearings are pressed in place, and I would have to remove the input shaft to get the output shaft and bearings out. The $200 assumes that I don't break anything taking it apart, which I'm not at all confident of being able to do.