Rotary Cutter John Deere LX5 rotary cutter squealing

[jrlogan]

Hey folks. I've got an JD LX5 cutter with a slip clutch. It started making a high pitched squealing noise whenever I would hit anything, like a sapling or thick grass. This would continue for about 30 seconds and then stop. It seemed to stop sooner if I disengaged the PTO, but it would continue for a little bit even with the PTO disengaged. (Could the clutch slip when the whole thing is coasting??) I could then mow for a few more minutes, but again, if I hit resistance it would start again. I checked the slip clutch and couldn't smell anything and it wasn't hot. It would slip some when I engaged the PTO with the engine going around 1500 rpm. My book says to tighten the bolts to a 4mm gap between the bell spring and the clutch plate, which is where mine was. I was worried that it might be slipping too easily (maybe the clutch is worn out?) so I tightened the bolts on the bell spring 1/2 turn each. This had little or no effect, and I verified that the clutch would still slip. I mowed a bit more, then it started squealing constantly. I tightened the bell spring to about 1-1.5mm and it didn't change. I greased the U-joint in front of the slip clutch also with no effect. I can't tell if the clutch is slipping while it is running, so I don't know if this squealing is the clutch or not. The gear box has oil in it, no water, and it is only warm.

Advice??

[plowindeeper]

The LX model is for light duty mowing. If you are in thick grass and SAPLINGS you are not doing a light duty job. The job is to big for cutter. Make smaller passes or mow higher go slower.

[jrlogan]

No, this is light duty. I've used this mower for years and never had a problem. There is something wrong with the mower.

[Biggreenavalanche]

Bearing may be going south, or possibly a gear...disconnect the pto shaft and turn the blades by hand...will help you track the source of the noise...

Rich

[jrlogan]

Great idea. It sounds like a bearing now that you mention it. Will check it out. Thanks!

[jrlogan]

Couldn't hear anything turning it by hand. Has to spin fast to hear. I put a length of hose in my ear and spun it with the tractor running and tried to localize the noise. It was definitely not the slip clutch, was the loudest at the bottom of the gear box, so probably the lower bearings. I tried to take the gear box off, but you have to remove the blades and stump jumper. I got the bolt off so I could see the end of the splined shaft coming out the gear box, but the stump jumper wouldn't budge. Any advice on getting this off? Do I heat it with a torch? Smack it with a sledge? Drop it off a cliff? Or use a thermonuclear separator? ;-)

[Ken]

Couldn't hear anything turning it by hand. Has to spin fast to hear. I put a length of hose in my ear and spun it with the tractor running and tried to localize the noise. It was definitely not the slip clutch, was the loudest at the bottom of the gear box, so probably the lower bearings. I tried to take the gear box off, but you have to remove the blades and stump jumper. I got the bolt off so I could see the end of the splined shaft coming out the gear box, but the stump jumper wouldn't budge. Any advice on getting this off? Do I heat it with a torch? Smack it with a sledge? Drop it off a cliff? Or use a thermonuclear separator? ;-)

jrlogan
The shaft is a tapored shaft so loosen nut not remove then I lift the rear end so sitting on 3 point hitch and secure the deck to a "rafter Now take a large sledge hammer and strick the nut. should come loose. if not do it again.
Now remember the shaft is like glass so will break easly.And sells for 750 bucks but JD doesn't sell it for this also want you to buy seals and gears. Total of $1200.00
when loose and removed look carefully at seal could be wire or something wedged into this area.

[jrlogan]

Ken. I want to make sure I understand. I should loosen the bolt underneath the cutter that holds the stump jumper unit on, and strike that bolt with a hammer? Do I have to take the bolts for the gear box off first? I can't see how striking that bolt underneath will help remove things. Won't that just be transferred through the lower shaft into the gear box? I'm obviously missing something here.

[Ken]

Ken. I want to make sure I understand. I should loosen the bolt underneath the cutter that holds the stump jumper unit on, and strike that bolt with a hammer? Do I have to take the bolts for the gear box off first? I can't see how striking that bolt underneath will help remove things. Won't that just be transferred through the lower shaft into the gear box? I'm obviously missing something here.

jrlogan I had mentioned the shaft is tapored and looseing the nut allows the shaft to release quickly when struck with sledge hammer.
The last thing you want done is the rotory cutter to fall on you doing this. I secure the cutter shell by chains attached to over head beam in shop.
After secure place I use 4x4 x12" block between stump jumper and frame the blocks near the bolts holding the knives loosen the nut and I use large sockets 3/4 " brake over bar and about 4' cheater bar.
Back the nut off until flush with end of shaft. then hit solid.
I have used this on bush hog, busy bee and J.D. brand of bush hogs some use heat or other methods of freeing the knife bar.
My comment of output shaft like glass is that there is a forum where the MX4-5-6-7 have broken output shafts.
Mine may of had 40 hours on it mowing right of way grass when came apart.
Almost new of another brand was cheaper than repair.
ken

[jrlogan]

Thanks Ken. Will give it a try. You're right about the ridiculous prices of JD. I have a larger howse bush hog and I ordered the whole gear box for $320. This gear box is $872, and it's smaller and lighter duty... I'm kind wondering I could put a howse gear box in there and make it work...