Tiller operation in a fenced garden

   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks Slash Pine,
My though was going towards a 100x100 square, so your saying build in some removable pannels on two ends?

Thanks,
Chris
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #12  
cmhyland said:
Thanks Slash Pine,
My though was going towards a 100x100 square, so your saying build in some removable pannels on two ends?

Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...
yelp easiest way is to put metal post around the garden use the 16 ft fence pannels attach them to the poat using twine or wire and you can remove them very easy.
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden
  • Thread Starter
#13  
schmism said:
Dont have access to my website to upload a paint image so ill do my best to explain in words....

each side of the fence referred to by its compass direction.

rear tiller on a CUT.

Gate in the west fence at the north corner.

drive in, pull around and back into far south east corner.
drop tiller and drive north tilling swath along east edge. Stop when the tractor bumper is about a foot from the north fence.
back up and over one pass.
repeat tilling as above.
last pass is along west edge and you can just turn left and pull out the gate.

this leaves a path at the north edge of the garden a little wider than the length of the tractor which leaves access to the garden for the tractor in the future.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input.
This is similar to what I used to do but I used to open the entire back side opposite of the gate. So like you I had a section up at the gate end that was 12 or 15' wide because I was using a garden tractor not a CUT at the time. Also we were using T-posts and stock fence. We were looking to do a more sturdy fence this time so I'm thinking of doing 4" round posts and stock fence with an electric strin top mid and bottom, or round rail sections with the same fence on the outside.

Thanks,
Chris
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #14  
Sounds like your vermin are the same as mine. I use the 2 foot 1 inch chicken wire. It's cheap and light enough. To anchor it I use the smooth metal electric fence stakes that are about 4 foot long. They have a T cross at about 8 - 12 inches up the stake to step on to drive them into the ground. I begin by feeding the post through the one inch holes (about every 5th hole) then step that first corner post in. Then I simply roll the fence out as far as I need it. That is where I once more feed the post though the wire again and step it into the ground. If the fence isn't standing upright the full length I'll use a fence post where necessary and feed it upside down through the wire and hand push it into the ground.

This is a pretty easy system to put up and take down and keeps the rabbits out. I only need it up for the first month or so until the plants get big enough that rabbits lose interest then I take it down. I've been doing this for 10 years and wouldn't have it any other way (well... no rabbits would be better). Sometimes I only fence a few rows as veggies like potatoes, tomatoes and onions are not eaten by rabbits.

Here is a picture of the system. I in this photo the fence is primarily being used to support peas. When the peas were just sprouting I planted them inside the fence to exclude rabbits.

If you wanted to get rid of the vermin you could easily incorporate a catchem alive trap on one side and the bad little bunny would be had.
 

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   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks Botabill,

We have issues with herds of deer as well as woodchucks and rabbits. I have a deer feeder for the winters... It keeps the deer from browsing our yard into twigs... In the winter I've seen 10 to 12 deer at a time at the feeder and they will go through 60lbs of feed a day if I was willing to pay for it, which I'm not...

I think for me, If I want a garden of 50X100 I will need to fence in an area of 100X150 and that will give me space to turn the machine around on the ends and allow for some fruit trees inside so the deer don't browse them into twigs.

Regards,
Chris
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #16  
From previous years, I have a 50 x 100 garden with 8 ft deer netting, 2 ft chicken wire bottom, all attached to 4 ft field fence....all mounted to 6 ft T-post, 6 inch wood corner posts. The deer netting is held up by 10 ft pvc, schedule 40, 1/2 water pipe attached to the T-posts. I built 7 ft wide entrances midway on both ends. Gates to the entrances are built from the pvc pipe frame to which some other welded wire fence that I had laying around was attached. The gates are simply lifted off of hooks set in the 6 inch posts.

This all worked great for my walk behind tilling days. But now, with my B2620, I think I'll extend the garden, take down one side, rebuild the other corners (for extension), and make the new side removable. At 80 years old, this expansion might still be worth it. :drink: Cheers, Mike
BTW...we have lots of deer, rabbits, squirrels and coons. The coons have to be trapped. And......I'm thinking of buying that 5 ft Tiller to go in that new garden area. We'll see.
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #18  
I have found that rigid wire fencing (I mostly use rabbit fence) does not need that many posts so I remove everything...I don't mess with panels...
After I till & hill I reset the corner posts and only use intermediate posts where needed...this allows me to fence right to the ends of my hill rows...

I usually use wood corner posts and fiberglass fence rods woven through the fencing for stiffeners where needed...
 
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #19  
   / Tiller operation in a fenced garden #20  
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