Amco Offset Disc

[Gary Fowler]

Thanks BR,
I realized while painting the wheels that the stems are rubber. At least they should be steel. I'll either have to live with it, or take it somewhere they can remove the tire. I don't think tire shops want to put thick beaded aircraft tires on their mount machines. But I could ask. I would have to wait where I bought the tires, an hour after work for them to open, to have them do it.

I had one 3 inch pipe nipple welded to the rear rim of my old Ford 3055 (photo above) when I had a flat. Never got the chance to install the other rear valve stem nipple!

hugs, Brandi

I don't know how many thousands of hours I ran heavy breaking disk like yours and also tandem disks and all the tires had rubber stems. Never had a problem with a stem breaking. The tires are generally far enough back that no dirt will hit them. When you get a bigger tractor you will be carrying those tire wheels up so no worry then for sure.
Also it as shame to ruin your good paint job welding on it afterwards, but fixing small cracks before they break is best thing.

 

[pacerron]

I don't know how many thousands of hours I ran heavy breaking disk like yours and also tandem disks and all the tires had rubber stems. Never had a problem with a stem breaking. The tires are generally far enough back that no dirt will hit them. When you get a bigger tractor you will be carrying those tire wheels up so no worry then for sure.
Also it as shame to ruin your good paint job welding on it afterwards, but fixing small cracks before they break is best thing.

I was wondering how tight an arc can you make with that monster when changing directions 180 degrees without raising the disc out of the dirt? If she is dragging it by a tow bar between the bottom lift arms on her tractor do the side sway stabilizers or chains need to be really tight or a bit loose to avoid bending something or cracking the rear end casting stubs that hold the links at the tractor?
What kind of ground speed works best with these in Arkansas soil?

 

[bindian]

I was wondering how tight an arc can you make with that monster when changing directions 180 degrees without raising the disc out of the dirt? If she is dragging it by a tow bar between the bottom lift arms on her tractor do the side sway stabilizers or chains need to be really tight or a bit loose to avoid bending something or cracking the rear end casting stubs that hold the links at the tractor?
What kind of ground speed works best with these in Arkansas soil?

Ron,
Never pull heavy objects with the lift arms. I have seen 3PH mounts ripped off the tractor pulling heavy loads. I saw somewhere that you need to let your drawbar swing free to reduce your tractor's rear end slipping over a little in turns. Also, I read that you suppose to raise the disc in turns. Bad things can happen stressing the disc and tractor in ways it is not designed for. Most of the disc can be repaired. But those disc pans and bearing supports are not cheap..............if you can find a parts source for them.

When I tested it out before painting, I pulled it with the drawbar fixed. I wouldn't dare put this monster on a bar on the 3PH. 3 reasons. One, it would be way higher and affect the weight balance on the hitch to the disc.....effecting the dirt spread. Two, the added height would change the tractor's CG. Three, after removing the BH, it takes too long of a time to installed the 3PH lift arms and stabilizers and remove after your done. Oh well, let's make that four points............................those lift arms and stabilizers are heavy to install and remove by yourself!

So when I feel the seat of my paints sliding sideways pulling in a curve, I will know it is too tight.
Down here in Texas, I have 4 different soil types on my land.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I don't know how many thousands of hours I ran heavy breaking disk like yours and also tandem disks and all the tires had rubber stems. Never had a problem with a stem breaking. The tires are generally far enough back that no dirt will hit them. When you get a bigger tractor you will be carrying those tire wheels up so no worry then for sure.
Also it as shame to ruin your good paint job welding on it afterwards, but fixing small cracks before they break is best thing.

Gary,
I got a fix for quick paint touch up. Paint it with the RED spray bombs, which leaves it duller than the paint with hardener in it, then spray on Krylon Clear Gloss paint. Instant spray bomb gloss!

Time will tell if a bigger tractor is needed. According to the Amco rep..............my tractor is the right size.
hugs, Brandi

 

[pacerron]

Ron,
Never pull heavy objects with the lift arms. I saw somewhere that you need to let your drawbar swing free to reduce your tractor's rear end slipping over a little in turns. Also, I read that you suppose to raise the disc in turns. Bad things can happen stressing the disc and tractor in ways it is not designed for. Most of the disc can be repaired. But those disc pans and bearing supports are not cheap..............if you can find a parts source for them.

When I tested it out before painting, I pulled it with the drawbar fixed. I wouldn't dare put this monster on a bar on the 3PH. 3 reasons. One, it would be way higher and affect the weight balance on the hitch to the disc.....effecting the dirt spread. Two, the added height would change the tractor's CG. Three, after removing the BH, it takes too long of a time to installed the 3PH lift arms and stabilizers and remove after your done. Oh well, let's make that four points............................those lift arms and stabilizers are heavy to install and remove by yourself!

So when I feel the seat of my paints sliding sideways pulling in a curve, I will know it is too tight.
Down here in Texas, I have 4 different soil types on my land.
hugs, Brandi

Brandi,
Gary Fowler, the man with thousands of hours of experience with this type of disk, lives in Arkansas. He is the one I was asking the questions too.
I agree you should not hook that monster to your 3 point, but had no idea what your intentions are. Even most draw bars have pins beside them
that can be removed so the drawbar has adjustment at an angle. I wouldn't trust them to not be in jeopardy as well.
I guess your only depth control is with the wheels and hydraulic cyclinder on this unit.
I use a 3pt hitch unit that is 8 feet wide and double ganged, opposing angles front and rear, but much more compact lengthwise with no wheels.
I always raise it when making a tight turn or backing up and it does a great job on plowed clay/loam soil by using the draft control to control the depth.
I'm not interested in buying your disk ( it's the wrong color ) I was just interested in the questions I asked Gary.

My old Ford has a backhoe on it and I know what you mean about the time and torture to remove the undercarriage and put the 3 point back on.
That's why I use the CNH for most other chores these days.
Ron

 

[sixdogs]

Two points. When I pull heavy implements, I add a "hammer strap" to my drawbar to reduce wear on the drawbar from the "chugging" back and forth of the tool action. The hammer strap is just a sort-of stepped-up short piece of drawbar that bolts to the drawbar and reduces drawbar wear. If you need a picture let me know. Not totally necessary but heplful. Depth is with the cylinder but really should be all the way down for the most aggressive action. This offset disc is going to pull hard but do a wonderful job.

And yes, you have to lift on the turns. I pull similar heavy items and lift and slide around the corners. With rib implement or aircraft ties they slide pretty easy. Not so with car tires as sliding is much more difficult.

 

[pacerron]

Two points. When I pull heavy implements, I add a "hammer strap" to my drawbar to reduce wear on the drawbar from the "chugging" back and forth of the tool action. The hammer strap is just a sort-of stepped-up short piece of drawbar that bolts to the drawbar and reduces drawbar wear. If you need a picture let me know. Not totally necessary but heplful. Depth is with the cylinder but really should be all the way down for the most aggressive action. This offset disc is going to pull hard but do a wonderful job.

And yes, you have to lift on the turns. I pull similar heavy items and lift and slide around the corners. With rib implement or aircraft ties they slide pretty easy. Not so with car tires as sliding is much more difficult.

Sixdogs,
Post the picture if you get time. It sounds interesting.
Some caution might be warranted if the implement is driven by the PTO as to length change of the bar. I have pulled round balers, hydraulic motor rakes, tedders and other stuff for over twenty years with one particular drawbar without any problems of the hole getting distorted, but of course the bolts or pins are shimmed with a sleeve so they are not very sloppy in the hole, except for the tedder which does rack back and forth in the hole.
I could use a bigger pin and sleeve from another implement, and should, just never gave it any thought.
The baler has a swivel ball in the tongue, like on the lower links of a 3pt and a large bolt that is sleeved to fit the drawbar hole so there is no need for any up and down slack for twisting. The other stuff with Y yokes have slack but the wear there from vertical movement would just be on the pins and they are big and hard so nothing showing as I recall. Another month and all that stuff will be getting a workout.
How time flys.
Ron

 

[bindian]

Brandi,
He is the one I was asking the questions too.
I agree you should not hook that monster to your 3 point, but had no idea what your intentions are.
I'm not interested in buying your disk ( it's the wrong color ) Ron

Ron,
My intentions? Why even ask anyone about hooking it to the 3PH? What did you think I going to hook it to.......my BH?:confused2::confused3:

Who said anything about me selling?:duh::mur::no: It's RED for a reason!
Brandi

 

[sixdogs]

Sixdogs,
...

...Post the picture if you get time.

Here you go. The first is on a 50 HP Kubota.





This next one is on my JD 5520 and is not fully set up. JD wanted $65 for the hammerstrap, which is OK, and I think $165, which is not OK, for the bolt and other misc that I think I can get by without. This is shown in mock-up stage with washers being used for spacers. I really don't think it matters what the spacer is but we'll see how it plays out. Anyway, here it is.




As noted, the hammerstrap keeps the drawbar from getting prematurely beat up by having, in effect, a second drawbar to lessen the impact.

 

[pacerron]

Here you go. The first is on a 50 HP Kubota.
View attachment 311578

View attachment 311579


This next one is on my JD 5520 and is not fully set up. JD wanted $65 for the hammerstrap, which is OK, and I think $165, which is not OK, for the bolt and other misc that I think I can get by without. This is shown in mock-up stage with washers being used for spacers. I really don't think it matters what the spacer is but we'll see how it plays out. Anyway, here it is.

View attachment 311580


As noted, the hammerstrap keeps the drawbar from getting prematurely beat up by having, in effect, a second drawbar to lessen the impact.

Looks good!
Thanks for the pics.
Ron