Amco Offset Disc

[Kioti Tom]

Looks good!
Thanks for the pics.
Ron

How does the pin fit on the Kubota? It does not look square (lined up). Looks slightly canted. Or is it the photo and it just looks off?
Inquiring minds are inquisitive..
:thumbsup:
Tom

 

[sixdogs]

How does the pin fit on the Kubota? It does not look square (lined up). Looks slightly canted. Or is it the photo and it just looks off?
Inquiring minds are inquisitive..
:thumbsup:
Tom

No, it's all lined up exact. Must be optical illusion. The top may appear slightly canted but the pin goes in just fine and the pin is nearly the same diameter as the hole.

 

[bindian]

Sixdogs,
Do you see any advantage in using a hammer strap with my hitch that pivots on the tongue?

What would the advantage be on a hitch like mine, other that the pin wearing the holes?
hugs, Brandi

 

[sixdogs]

Sixdogs,
Do you see any advantage in using a hammer strap with my hitch that pivots on the tongue?View attachment 311598

What would the advantage be on a hitch like mine, other that the pin wearing the holes?
hugs, Brandi

That swivel will help you in the twisting action of the disc and that's a good thing. The benefit of the hammer strap is almost totally with the action on the drawbar hole. Beyond that not much need for it.

I would not get a hammer strap just yet until you use it a bit and see how it behaves. I also suspect the hole in the disc tongue is a lot bigger than the hole in the drawbar and will give you that "chugging" or "hunting" tugging action I mention. Try the disc and come back to it but I'll guess you'll need to have the hole in the disc tongue made smaller and that you will ultimately need a hammer strap.

That is one heck of a rugged offset disc. Carry a spare drawbar pin and make sure there is a hole to put a click pin or hairpin in to keep it from popping out. Also, don't be tempted to use a grade 8 bolt. Normal hitch pins are a grade 5 and the grade 8 will wear the drawbar faster.

 

[Kioti Tom]

No, it's all lined up exact. Must be optical illusion. The top may appear slightly canted but the pin goes in just fine and the pin is nearly the same diameter as the hole.

OK Thanks. :thumbsup:
Tom

 

[bindian]

That swivel will help you in the twisting action of the disc and that's a good thing. The benefit of the hammer strap is almost totally with the action on the drawbar hole. Beyond that not much need for it.

I would not get a hammer strap just yet until you use it a bit and see how it behaves. I also suspect the hole in the disc tongue is a lot bigger than the hole in the drawbar and will give you that "chugging" or "hunting" tugging action I mention. Try the disc and come back to it but I'll guess you'll need to have the hole in the disc tongue made smaller and that you will ultimately need a hammer strap.

That is one heck of a rugged offset disc. Carry a spare drawbar pin and make sure there is a hole to put a click pin or hairpin in to keep it from popping out. Also, don't be tempted to use a grade 8 bolt. Normal hitch pins are a grade 5 and the grade 8 will wear the drawbar faster.

Wow.........Grade 5. I just bought a Grade 8 bolt 8 inches long to use in the tractor's front hitch to just move it around.
hugs, Brandi

 

[pacerron]

That swivel will help you in the twisting action of the disc and that's a good thing. The benefit of the hammer strap is almost totally with the action on the drawbar hole. Beyond that not much need for it.

I would not get a hammer strap just yet until you use it a bit and see how it behaves. I also suspect the hole in the disc tongue is a lot bigger than the hole in the drawbar and will give you that "chugging" or "hunting" tugging action I mention. Try the disc and come back to it but I'll guess you'll need to have the hole in the disc tongue made smaller and that you will ultimately need a hammer strap.

That is one heck of a rugged offset disc. Carry a spare drawbar pin and make sure there is a hole to put a click pin or hairpin in to keep it from popping out. Also, don't be tempted to use a grade 8 bolt. Normal hitch pins are a grade 5 and the grade 8 will wear the drawbar faster.

She showed an extreme example of the wear on the disk tongue a few pages back that you have been explaining the hammer strap fix for on the tow bar.
She or someone repaired it and drilled a new hole. A snug fitting pin or a smaller one with a pipe sleeve will probably keep the slap from wearing the tongue into a slot for a long time on the disk.
I really don't like fooling with sleeves and I don't like the clips you show on your pin. They are nice to pull out but too easy to be pulled out and lost by something while in use. A snug fitting pin, like you show is the best solution unless it gets bent a little; then it's time for the torch. Were the holes in your draw bar already there for the hammer strap piece? I'm recalling an extra hole or two in my old Ford draw bar to mount a loop to hold the baler safety chain. I don't remember if the CNH has extra holes or not. One of them, at least, is shaped like your strap would be if it were on the bottom to lower the pin hole down closer to the ground for proper tongue height on the implements. Guess I better go look. I don't normally leave the draw bars on the tractors except for making hay.
Thanks again for your pictures.
Ron

 

[Gary Fowler]

I was wondering how tight an arc can you make with that monster when changing directions 180 degrees without raising the disc out of the dirt? If she is dragging it by a tow bar between the bottom lift arms on her tractor do the side sway stabilizers or chains need to be really tight or a bit loose to avoid bending something or cracking the rear end casting stubs that hold the links at the tractor?
What kind of ground speed works best with these in Arkansas soil?

There are a couple of ways to use an offset, one of which is to do it like bushhogging and start on the outside edge and just circle in a counterclockwise direction till you get to the smallest circle and then you have to pick up and turn. Turning to the left will pull the disc blades out of the ground if you turn too sharp so you have to moderate the turn. I could never turn them (7 foot wide one) sharp enough to go right back down the way I just came without cutting about 30 feet of turn row on each end (about 2 round trips wide). When we went to 4 row equipment we got rid of the offset disc in favor of a heavy 14foot wide tandem tow type and with those you can turn straight back onto the next pass. 5-6 MPH(about a good trotting speed if on foot) is about ideal disking speed as it turns the soil without throwing it into a pile, isn't too fast that it pulls the disc out of the ground but still fast enough to cover lots of ground.
I have an 8 foot tandem 3 ph disk that I use here in my rocky hard clay type soil. It is really too small for my 70 HP tractor but it is as large as I need. I bought it when I had my 45 HP Yanmar and it was all that it wanted. I pull it with the LS in M range, 1st gear and throttle back to 1500 RPM which is still pretty fast for our rough ground and rocks so it sounds like someone is back there pounding on the blades all the time. I disk about 2 rounds on the ends either before starting or after I finish an area to cover the area that is required for me to turn my tractor. Turning on the ends is when I miss the old ag tractors with the torque amplifier transmissions (dual range power shift) which reduced your speed by half then when turned and straightened out, just bump it back to high range. With my tractor, I have to throttle back to slow down.

 

[sixdogs]

Wow.........Grade 5. I just bought a Grade 8 bolt 8 inches long to use in the tractor's front hitch to just move it around.
hugs, Brandi

Grade 8 is OK to move it around but when actually being used the grade 5, unless it bends or breaks, is the right thing. Hitch pins are grade 5 and make sure you pin it on or two nuts locked together .

 

[pacerron]

There are a couple of ways to use an offset, one of which is to do it like bushhogging and start on the outside edge and just circle in a counterclockwise direction till you get to the smallest circle and then you have to pick up and turn. Turning to the left will pull the disc blades out of the ground if you turn too sharp so you have to moderate the turn. I could never turn them (7 foot wide one) sharp enough to go right back down the way I just came without cutting about 30 feet of turn row on each end (about 2 round trips wide). When we went to 4 row equipment we got rid of the offset disc in favor of a heavy 14foot wide tandem tow type and with those you can turn straight back onto the next pass. 5-6 MPH(about a good trotting speed if on foot) is about ideal disking speed as it turns the soil without throwing it into a pile, isn't too fast that it pulls the disc out of the ground but still fast enough to cover lots of ground.
I have an 8 foot tandem 3 ph disk that I use here in my rocky hard clay type soil. It is really too small for my 70 HP tractor but it is as large as I need. I bought it when I had my 45 HP Yanmar and it was all that it wanted. I pull it with the LS in M range, 1st gear and throttle back to 1500 RPM which is still pretty fast for our rough ground and rocks so it sounds like someone is back there pounding on the blades all the time. I disk about 2 rounds on the ends either before starting or after I finish an area to cover the area that is required for me to turn my tractor. Turning on the ends is when I miss the old ag tractors with the torque amplifier transmissions (dual range power shift) which reduced your speed by half then when turned and straightened out, just bump it back to high range. With my tractor, I have to throttle back to slow down.

Thanks Gary,
I essentially do the same thing but often start in the middle. At the other end lift the disk with the 3 pt and make an arc back to the outer edge if it is not too tight a turn. Drop the disk on the fly and go to the other end and arc back to the outside of the original center run. That keeps the distance of the arc between passes about the same till I get so close to the other outer edge that I need to stop and reverse turn in the arc area for the final couple passes. That works best for me on a rectangle. Of course on a crooked field with acreage involved different combinations are involved.
How was your TDY?
Ron