Amco Offset Disc

[Gary Fowler]

I was running between 1500 and 2000 in a counter clockwise large circle. I normally drive around my place in 6th gear, so this was exciting to me.:cloud9: :

Turning to the left (counterclockwise) will naturally make the disc come out of the ground a bit especially in sharp turns. It has been a long time since I used one but the way the tongue is offset it is easier to turn in one direction (right IIRC) than the other. Attempting to turn sharply in the wrong direction with cause your tractor tires to hang on the disc tongue, but you may have figured this out already. Be extremely careful if you have to make a left hand turn so you don't rip up your tires.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

When pulling an offset disk, you always turn to the left. Turning to the right CAN cause problems of many different kinds.

 

[bindian]

When pulling an offset disk, you always turn to the left. Turning to the right CAN cause problems of many different kinds.

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi[/QUOTE

Brandi, I am sure that it would be better,(30% better) but with all the weight that I have,(10K without the loader) it is not traction that I loose, I just don't have the hp to pull it. So the AGs would give me more pull, but at a speed that would be to slow for disking.

When I bought the 7520, our property had recently been burned and there was chared 2"-4" branches everywhere. I venture to say that AG tires might have made it part of a day, not much more without getting a flat. My 10 ply R4s have held up very well. :thumbsup:

 

[flusher]

Dudes, (to borrow a word from my high school days) I am so pumped.:cool2: I got one set of remote QDs replaced today (this one was wore out anyway, as the backhoe kept popping it off) and took it out, just now, after dark and put it in the ground. I started out in first and kept shifting up to 5th gear. I was running between 1500 and 2000 in a counter clockwise large circle. I normally drive around my place in 6th gear, so this was exciting to me.:cloud9: Now, to justify Brian's concerns, when I went a little too far left in a curve, I felt my rear end and the tractors rear end pull a little to the left:thumbsdown:.....................so I need rear weights.:thumbsup: The disced ground was nicely prepared after two passes. The far right did show a small furrow. We did have ONE inch of rain this morning, so it was no hard ground. Overall I am tickled pink.


hugs, Brandi:us-texas::cowgirl:

I modified the hitch on that tandem disc I mentioned earlier in this thread. Now it's a pintle/lunette (ring) type that attaches to the 3pt hitch. Gives me an up/down adjustment with the 3pt hitch hydraulics to level the disc from the tractor seat. The original leveling screw/crank assembly on my disk was a bear to turn. I too old to fart around with it. Much better to use the hydraulics. And connecting that pintle hitch is easier than hooking the disk to the drawbar.



Just a thought.

 

[npalen]

This is what I read also and why my trial runs did a left hand large circle. My 6520 has a pretty long drawbar and I would never turn that tight. When we were little, my brother and I busted the thin stamped metal hitch off of our 8hp lawn tractor with the tongue of Dad's small, homemade, utility trailer.
Dad tanned our hides over that. No, I'll never turn that tight again!
Brian,
I wonder how your 7520 would pull with R1s instead of R4s. Have you ever gave that any thought?
hugs, Brandi

One exception to the go fast-turn left rule: Back in the 60's and 70's the company I worked for sold a lot of offset discs. They had a dealer that I believe was located out in the Palouse region where they farm very steep slopes. The farmers insisted on going around the hills in a certain direction but the disc worked better in the other direction due to the extreme slopes. So the manufacturer, Sunflower, built left handed discs so these farmers could go around the hills in the direction they were accustomed to.

Edit: We used what were called OneWays back in the fifties like in this video. They were definitely "turn left" otherwise turning right meant a very large circle to prevent the disc getting tangled up with the tractor.
John Deere Surflex disktiller oneway - YouTube

 

[bindian]

I took the cylinder and forwar mount off today. I thought the forward mount was some type of swing link, with all the movement it had. Along with it just being pinned. As it turns out, I now think it is suppose to be bolted and fixed in position. The holes are way enlarged and I am planning on buying larger bolts and reaming the holes. That will take some slack out of the cylinder in it's operation raising and more importantly, lowering the wheels. As you can see in the photo, the pins were really worn.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

I think I found the most likely culprit of the cylinder not getting the wheels all the way down to the lock hole. Seems the hole the cylinder shaft rod end mounts to is way egg shaped. I am either going to have to remove the whole wheel axles assembly or take the whole disc to the welding shop and have a half moon shaped "filler" chunk of 5/8 inch steel welded in that hole. Hopefully, if I make the filler right, it won't have to be reamed.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

After taking all the wheel up and down lock assembly apart, I realized all the parts are not original. The sliding bracket that has the holes to lock the wheels up or down does not work even with the wheels jacked all the way up until the assembly hits the frame. So I need to fix all the holes I can with bigger bolts or pins, weld the one hole, then try to adjust it all to hit the down lock hole...................and drill a new wheel uplock hole the cylinder can move the wheels up to hit. As you can see in the photo, the hole is about 3/4 inch too far aft when the wheels are all the way up against the frame.
hugs, Brandi

 

[bindian]

Here is a composite of earlier photos so Y'all can see where all the parts I took apart in the above posts, go.
hugs, Brandi