Rotary tillers: "C" blades vs "L" blades and soil hard pan

[Spindifferent]

Hi Folks,

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on the benefits/drawbacks of "C" blades vs "L" blades in rotary tillers in terms of impacts on creating a soil hard pan below the max tillage depth?

It would seem to me that the "L" blades would be more prone to create a hard pan since the bottom of the "L" runs parallel to the ground and could smear the soil into a pan layer.

Would the "C" blades be less likely to create a hard pan since the blades would produce more of an angular cut in the soil?

Appreciate any info, much thanks,

- Spindifferent

[cmhyland]

Spindifferent,
I had 30" tiller on a 70's vintage Cub Cadet garden tractor that had the L shaped tines. Up here i New England we have less clay in our soil so I never had a problem with a hard bottom below the tilling depth. I now have 60" tiller with the L-shaped tines which I haven't used yet. I expect it will work the same.

I can't remember seeing a C-shaped tine. What tiller brand uses that shape? Are you thinking you'll get a hard bottom below the tilling depth that water and roots won't penetrate?

Regards,
Chris

[cmhyland]

My new tiller has tines that are angled less than 90 degrees so it wouldn't leave a flat bottom under the soil.



Regards,
Chris

[EverythingAttachments]

Most Italian tiller manufacturers us a C tine such as the ones found on our Phoenix Tillers and Everything Attachments Tillers. They are known to cut more aggressively in hard packed soil but I haven't had any complaints concerning the L tines found on King Kutter tillers.

[HayDR]

Hi Folks,

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on the benefits/drawbacks of "C" blades vs "L" blades in rotary tillers in terms of impacts on creating a soil hard pan below the max tillage depth?

It would seem to me that the "L" blades would be more prone to create a hard pan since the bottom of the "L" runs parallel to the ground and could smear the soil into a pan layer.

Would the "C" blades be less likely to create a hard pan since the blades would produce more of an angular cut in the soil?

Appreciate any info, much thanks,

- Spindifferent

For most operators a "C" will be best for them. C blades for most applications will be slightly longer because a loose rock will follow a "L" tine around the rotor and you need a little more clearance on the sheet metal with the "L" tine.
L tines are slightly better in sandy soil. If you are tilling sod with some ground cover you want C blades, L tines will wind up morning Glories where a C tine will chop them up.

[Don87]

Hi Folks,

Anyone have any experience or thoughts on the benefits/drawbacks of "C" blades vs "L" blades in rotary tillers in terms of impacts on creating a soil hard pan below the max tillage depth?

It would seem to me that the "L" blades would be more prone to create a hard pan since the bottom of the "L" runs parallel to the ground and could smear the soil into a pan layer.

Would the "C" blades be less likely to create a hard pan since the blades would produce more of an angular cut in the soil?

Appreciate any info, much thanks,

- Spindifferent

I have 'C' tines, my BIL has 'L' tines and in my experience, they both create the hard pan below the max tilling depth. That's why every few years a 'subsoiler' should be used to break up said hard pan.

Myself and my BIL have hard soil, the 'C' tines on mine definitely work better than my BIL's 'L' tines. Mine will till deeper and faster than his.

[AKfish]

Tiller's with a 'C' tine are more expensive, too. In general, they're smoother to operate and don't "buck" as much in rougher/tougher soil conditions.

AKfish