GANG ANGLE ADJUSTMENT - NEW 16/18" BOX FRAME DISC HARROWS

[gwdixon]

I have a howse, and changing the angle is some work. I had to loosen U bolts to slide gangs out to allow the steeper angle. I have the front angled all the way, rear angled a little flatter. Cutting with first pair and leveling in the back. I did not tighten the axle nuts after first use, but may need to now. I have used mine for two years and very happy with it. Sorry I'm late but I'm a dollar short too congrats on the disc Jeff hope you enjoy it!

Reyer: those rear gangs look like they are awfully closely spaced. It would seem that the front gangs fling the soil outward and the rears aren't wide enough to turn the soil back. But to each their own.

I also have a Howse disc and have had some issues. Three of the bearings have failed. One may have been because wire wrapped around the axle next to the bearing housing. The other two just simply fell apart - ball bearings all over the place and a frozen gang (twice).

When taking the U bolts off of the gangs to move them and/or to replace a bearing I have found 50% of them stripped out and the lock nut impossible to turn. They had to be cut off. I made replacement grade 8 "U" bolts out of two 5" bolts and a 1/2" square shaft welded between them as a spacer (photo if requested).

The A frame of the 3PH was tilted a bit too far to the rear and the "Top" of my T&T would not reach. the top link angle support was moved forward and welded forward of the usual mounting hole on the frame. Difficult to describe.

One of the square tubes that the gangs mount to is no longer a square but rather is a rhombus. It will eventually have to be replaced with 3" heavy walled square tubing. The OEM is just too thin. Simple enough, just drill the appropriate hole through one end.

As has been stated, the large nuts have to be watched carefully for loosening. Trouble is, the 1" thick spacer under the nut and lock washer has to be lined up perfectly with the square axle since the spacer's hole is also square. There is about 1/8" bite on the axle so it is a good luck to you proposition.

The disc was modified to a CAT 2 setup by welding CAT 2 to CAT 3 bushing on the 3 lift points. That seems to work well.

Not sure I'd go with the Howse disc again. However, for the price it is a bargain. Just be ready to work on it.

 

[Reyer Farms]

Hey GW, I am unsure if there is enough room to space them out to catch what the front throws I hate that yours has been subpar. Did you buy it well used? Stumps seem to be the biggest enemy here to the through the frame design. I have cut and welded a many back together. I prefer the under slung hangers but needed one "now" when I bought mine. Shopping was not an option. I can't count the lock nuts I cut off and replace, I think lock washers are adequate in most cases, nylon just makes field repair a pain.

 

[jeff9366]

Reyer Farms, gwdixon:

If you were to replace your Howse Disc Harrow next week, with another disc harrow, WHAT BRAND WOULD YOU BUY?

WHY?

 

[gwdixon]

Hey GW, I am unsure if there is enough room to space them out to catch what the front throws I hate that yours has been subpar. Did you buy it well used? Stumps seem to be the biggest enemy here to the through the frame design. I have cut and welded a many back together. I prefer the under slung hangers but needed one "now" when I bought mine. Shopping was not an option. I can't count the lock nuts I cut off and replace, I think lock washers are adequate in most cases, nylon just makes field repair a pain.

The Howse 3PH disc was purchased brand new just 2 years ago.

My rear gangs are spaced all the way to the end of the 3" square hanger. If the disc is set correctly it gives a nice flat result. When lowering, the rear gangs on mine have to touch the ground 2" to 3" before the fronts to get a level cut.

However, setting the rear gangs so wide only gives a double cut of about 2' in the center of either side of the path. Your setting would work the soil better since most of the path is double cut. Oh well, compromises are part of life.

Where possible, I like to use an 8' offset disc. It is much more efficient. Hauling it down the highway on my FEL is not optimum for getting it from place to place. Maybe someday I'll get a wheeled disc.

To jeff9366: If the Howse was replaced the choice would depend on construction rather than brand. Heavier walled body tubing and much more substantial gang hangers would be the first thing to look for. That would make for a more expensive and weighty disc.

It is not that I'm unhappy with the Howse (for the price) it is that it requires substantial attention each season. Given the other discs I've seen it is very likely that they would also need repairs at some point. Disc have a hard job in rocky soil around here so maintenance is an expectation. Plus, I like to keep my equipment in top shape to save on down-time in the middle of a job.

Oh, I'd look for the disc to have smooth blades in both front and rear. Three of the OEM scalloped blades had to be replaced due to bending the scallops to the point of the blade running like a wheel rather than cutting the soil. Bending them back to original was tried using a long wrench but it only seemed to cause metal fatigue and a couple of the scallops just broke off at the next job.

 

[gwdixon]

OK, here are some photos even though they were not requested. They will explain better than words.

New development: The lower adjustment pad for the rear gangs had both 1/2" square alignment guides quite worn. They were replaced and welded in more securely. The original welds could have been done more completely and a small weld added to the end to secure the square bar better.

View attachment 305950View attachment 305951View attachment 305952

To jeff9366: I would recommend going ahead and putting a bolt through the adjustment plate and securing it. See the last picture for the consequences of a pin only.
View attachment 305953

 

[Reyer Farms]

Reyer Farms, gwdixon:

If you were to replace your Howse Disc Harrow next week, with another disc harrow, WHAT BRAND WOULD YOU BUY?

WHY?

Well, with every option on the market. Amco would be my first choice. They make fine equipment. After that it would be about value. I would shop howse again ( like the heavy spacers and weight), everything attachments ( have looked at it online and like the design), land pride makes some good solid equipment, and would consider building my own, custom to what I do and scale. I considered it two years ago but didn't have the time. If I live to 100 I will probably only get half of the things I plan to do, done
If I had money money and could justify the tractor to pull it, one word. Sunflower. That would be so cool.
For the record I have no stock in any of these companies. Some are made here in Ms but I am trying to be as objective as I can with info I have. I like many brands of tractor and equipment. I would never try to mislead anyone. As far as I know EA is the only one represented here and I would also consider that. I admire how they take a front and center approach to build equipment and help those interested.

 

[Reyer Farms]

OK, here are some photos even though they were not requested. They will explain better than words.

New development: The lower adjustment pad for the rear gangs had both 1/2" square alignment guides quite worn. They were replaced and welded in more securely. The original welds could have been done more completely and a small weld added to the end to secure the square bar better.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=305950"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=305951"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=305952"/>

To jeff9366: I would recommend going ahead and putting a bolt through the adjustment plate and securing it. See the last picture for the consequences of a pin only.
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=305953"/>

Mine has bolts instead of pins. Kinda weird. I noticed my paint is also different than yalls. What was your color originally? I have some equipment from Buckeye Tractor Co. They sent me two books with it, very informative about the equipment I bought and general. You can view them online buctraco.com. Three point hitches on implements are supposed to be standardized by assoc. of ag engineers????, but tractors are not. I thought that was odd. I don't now what a Tt is, but my top link is let out a ways to run level. I really think it is due to it being quick hitch ready, and I utilize a slow hitch system I see your plate is bent where hanger runs through, that's why I like the underslung hangers. Easy money fixing fixing them.
Sorry, I have a story. Guy had one bent like yours on the front. Pulled up cut it off welded new plate on it. Did some more welding and heating and beating on the right side of disc. I finish and he says he going to try it before I leave. Guy goes out and hammers a stump on that side! I was sure he ripped something a loose. I told him I stand behind my work but dang a least let cool first and let out the top link. Back gangs were not even close to touching the ground. He was tickled, it's still going strong.

 

[jeff9366]

I noticed my paint is also different than yalls. What was your color originally?

My Kubota dealer orders equipment from Howse in Kubota Orange.

 

[jeff9366]

To jeff9366: I would recommend going ahead and putting a bolt through the adjustment plate and securing it. See the last picture for the consequences of a pin only.

Thank you.

While I will not be setting the gang angles as aggressively due to my sandy, nearly rock free soil, your comments and the photo indicate the pivot bolt area and low frame guides, front and rear, are an insecure part of the Howse design. I see how the front and rear pivot bolts pinch together their respective top adjustment plate and bottom adjustment plate.

I will remove the two pivot pins and return the two Howse pivot bolts/nuts.

I think I will add one pair of fender washers to each pivot bolt.

Very fine to have someone with a Howse disc share their experience with a first-time owner of the same equipment.

Thanks again.

 

[gwdixon]

Reyer Farms: A T&T is a "Top and Tilt" hydraulic system for the 3PH (three point hitch). Just another acronym. The disc came in yellow because that was what was in stock. Colors are apparently an option.
View attachment 306055

Update: Just yesterday one of the infamous axle nuts came off of a front gang. The axle backed out and dropped weights (spacers) and disc blades before it was noticed. Totally destroyed the inner sealed bearing. Lost the nut, lock washer, and the first outside spacer (the one that has two flat sides for a huge wrench).

A trip to the John Deere dealer was made to replace the nut/washer (they have grade 8). The center bearing race from the destroyed bearing was used to replace the outside spacer. Then the nuts on all four gangs were tack welded to keep them on.

Now maybe a day or two will go by before the disc lands back in the shop. The recent foul up used my last replacement bearing. Four more bearings were ordered from eBay just in case.

Disc Harrow 1 1 8" SEALED Bearings with Flange Fits Many Brands DHPPB5 | eBay