Advanced PHD Question-Drilling at angle

[BSVLY]

Want to put some HD posts in at an angle to brace the end rows of some grape trellis'. I have a SPEECO medium duty PHD and a few different auger bits. Running a Koiti CK30 tractor w/ 3PT. No top assist.

Can I start the hole straight just a little and then run fwd to get a 60 degree angle and back against it to get the depth? Have not tried it and wondering if anyone here has done this? Any worries on safety and equipment damage doing this?

No rocks..just clay pockets and pea gravel.

Thanks for any tips suggestions.

 

[SanDucerro]

Have not tried what you are suggesting - but that's how I'd do it. As much banging around as my PHD does going "straight" down I fail to see how a bit of an angle would mess things up. We have a vineyard we're planting as well, but I elected to go with "H" braces at each end instead of the angled post. There were two reasons for this choice. First, it's easier. Second, you can plant a vine inside the "H" brace and "extend" your vineyard row without taking up any additional space. We have all the acreage we need to "not" worry about the total number of acres we use, but the deer fence surrounding the vineyard is rather expensive - so we're craming everything we can into as small of an enclosure as possible. When we're done we'll have right at 4 acres under vine.

 

[TerryR]

I suspect that at 60 degrees you will be getting close to, if not surpass, the maximum angle at which the U-joints in the PTO driveline can operate. It will get worse as the PHD gets further into the ground. If you do you can do major damage.

Terry

 

[quadpa1911]

I'd like it if I could just drill one straight

 

[BSVLY]

Have not tried what you are suggesting - but that's how I'd do it. As much banging around as my PHD does going "straight" down I fail to see how a bit of an angle would mess things up. We have a vineyard we're planting as well, but I elected to go with "H" braces at each end instead of the angled post. There were two reasons for this choice. First, it's easier. Second, you can plant a vine inside the "H" brace and "extend" your vineyard row without taking up any additional space. We have all the acreage we need to "not" worry about the total number of acres we use, but the deer fence surrounding the vineyard is rather expensive - so we're craming everything we can into as small of an enclosure as possible. When we're done we'll have right at 4 acres under vine.

Sounds like we are in the same boat. I too have to put a fence up-but for jack rabbits, dogs and Red fox. I'll plan the vinyard fit into a 330 foot long fence for economics. Considering the H brace too.

Thanks

 

[BSVLY]

I suspect that at 60 degrees you will be getting close to, if not surpass, the maximum angle at which the U-joints in the PTO driveline can operate. It will get worse as the PHD gets further into the ground. If you do you can do major damage.

Terry

I wonder about that too. Sometimes I strap the bit up under the PHD frame to drive around without it swinging. I might be ok on the angle. I suppose a 45 degree angle would work too; as the rows I have are pretty short and not too much tension. I will test in some soft sand before doing any serious work like this. Thanks

 

[BSVLY]

I'd like it if I could just drill one straight

I totally agree. Ain't it a ball buster to get them perfect??

 

[aczlan]

I suspect that at 60 degrees you will be getting close to, if not surpass, the maximum angle at which the U-joints in the PTO driveline can operate. It will get worse as the PHD gets further into the ground. If you do you can do major damage.

Going back at an angle (ie: tip of the auger away from the tractor) will be easier on the U Joints than going forward (tip of the auger toward the tractor). Might have to back up to get it to go in though.

Aaron Z

 

[MBTRAC]

As others have suggested the uni's maybe close to their limit; I'd also suggest the overlap of the PTO shaft should be checked to determine if it's sufficent at that operating angle so as not to bow, induce excess vibration, or disconnect/split in two halves when engaged/torque is applied (can't comment on the Speeco PHD but some manufacturers have minimal overlap of the PTO sections in the expectation of a near vertical auger operation).

Our preference is for using post drivers where practical, but regularly drill holes mechanically at acute angles,using either PHD as pictured (depending on how many holes you're digging you may wish to upgrade to something similar):
- A (red) Proline PHD - a mechanical PTO PHD where the angles are only limited by the top link/linkage adjustment as the PTO shaft remains virtually straight at all times transfering drive through a chain to the elevated gearbox (yes, you can add as many drill/auger extension rods through the gearbox to go as deep as you want asthe tractor/PHD will power)
- A (silver) Digga Hydraulic PHD - the red ram in the frame provides downforce, a ram mounted in the frame connects to the drive box & alters/controls the auger motor drive angle & combined with a hyd top link/linkage adjustment you can quickly set a hole at any angle you want & being hydraulic driven the auger can be reversed (the drive box also disconnects & mounts on a FEL in a few minutes)

 

[texasjohn]

I have gone to using a dead man anchor whenever possible for braceing an end post...dig hole, get big rock, drill hole in roch with hammer drill, insert wire into rock hole and tie off, drop rock onto ground, fill hole, tie smooth wire ratchet to wire and end post, tighten ratchet. done.