Rear Blade Is there a way to adust the lift arms to lift higher?

[denverdave66]

I am a rookie and don't know a thing about tractors learning the hard way. I got a John Deere 1026 and today I bought a Landpride RB1560 rear blade. It will only lift my blade all the way up only about 4" off the ground. What am I doing wrong? Or is there a way to adjust the lift arms so that it will lift higher?

 

[Ed of all trades]

Try shortening the top link.

 

[denverdave66]

Thanks Ed, that worked I feel like an idiot.

 

[B58Hustler]

Try shortening the top link.

ED has the right idea on the toplink. I shortened mine by nearly 2 inches and gained over 3 inches at the bottom of the blade. The 3320 has 3 positions where the top link connects to the tractor which also affects the angle of the blade frame. How many positions does the 1026 have?
You may have to adjust the top link for each rear implement you use.

 

[denverdave66]

I am not sure what you mean I am using a quick hitch. After shortening the top link it is at least 8" off the ground now, at least I am not going to mess up my yard if I hit an uneven place.

 

[schmism]

most 3pt linkage includes multipull holes at the bottom of the links that connect the lower 3pt arms to the upper lifting mechanism. you can pick the hightest hole on that linkage to gain a few inches of additional lift.

 

[HunterWare]

Dave,

The 2305 (predecessor to the 1026R) had a second set of holes on the draft arms (the two heavy arms), which is the idea they are talking about. You only have one hole in each arm (in the center), which is what you are using. If you wanted to modify your system, you could drill another set of holes 1"-2" closer to you tractor on those arms and attach the lift arms (the two links that drop down from the lifting part on the tractor to the draft arms). These two new holes would (when used) have the effect of increasing your range a few inches while decreasing your lift capacity 10-20%. You could also go the other way if you wanted to lift something just a bit heavier (at the expense of some movement range).

HTH,
Hunter

 

[chim]

most 3pt linkage includes multipull holes at the bottom of the links that connect the lower 3pt arms to the upper lifting mechanism. you can pick the hightest hole on that linkage to gain a few inches of additional lift.

That sounds backwards. The hitch pins will lift the same height regardless of the length of the toplink. The advantage of shortening the toplink as Ed said will be the implement will be lifted higher at the extreme end - blade in this case.

Using a lower hole on the tractor end of the toplink should create more flip at the extreme end and raise the blade higher, shouldn't it?

 

[allen in texas]

"most 3pt linkage includes multipull holes at the bottom of the links that connect the lower 3pt arms to the upper lifting mechanism. you can pick the hightest hole on that linkage to gain a few inches of additional lift."

That sounds backwards. The hitch pins will lift the same height regardless of the length of the toplink. The advantage of shortening the toplink as Ed said will be the implement will be lifted higher at the extreme end - blade in this case.

Using a lower hole on the tractor end of the toplink should create more flip at the extreme end and raise the blade higher, shouldn't it?

I believe that this refers to the lower lift arms, not the top link. Yes my tractor has multiple holes in the "pulling up" rods. I gain about 4 inches of additional height lift height at the end of the lift arms and a lot more at the end of the implement. I pretty much leave mine in the highest setting because the 3pt will go low enough with most all of my equipment. I have two implements that I could not lift high enough with the "factory" settings.
Some tractors have holes in the lift arms themselves at different spacing along the arm. Moving the "pulling up" rods closer to the tractor gives more range both up and down but at the cost of a lower lift capacity.

Shortening the toplink will allow the implement to lift higher but it also changes the angle of the blade in the ground. Yes, moving the top link to the lowest hole (at the tractor end) will also give more lift but the blade can be set more where you like it. Someone once said to me, simple geometry.

One other thing,
awhile back someone had the same issue with not being able to lift an implement high enough and coincidentally, it was a John Deere tractor then too. I think the problem then was the fact that the hydraulics weren't set properly to get full range on the 3pt. A control linkage adjustment cured that problem.

 

[chim]

I believe that this refers to the lower lift arms, not the top link. Yes my tractor has multiple holes in the "pulling up" rods. I gain about 4 inches of additional height lift height at the end of the lift arms and a lot more at the end of the implement. I pretty much leave mine in the highest setting because the 3pt will go low enough with most all of my equipment. I have two implements that I could not lift high enough with the "factory" settings.
Some tractors have holes in the lift arms themselves at different spacing along the arm. Moving the "pulling up" rods closer to the tractor gives more range both up and down but at the cost of a lower lift capacity.

Shortening the toplink will allow the implement to lift higher but it also changes the angle of the blade in the ground. Yes, moving the top link to the lowest hole (at the tractor end) will also give more lift but the blade can be set more where you like it. Someone once said to me, simple geometry..

You're right. I re-read the post and misunderstood. Thank you