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  1. #1
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    Ford 1910 (1983)

    Default 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    So, I just bought a Yanmar 3 pt. splitter off of Craigslist. It looks like it has been maintained OK & was supposedly used this spring, but should I be worried about any gunk that might be in the cylinder before hooking it up to my tractor hydraulics?

    As best I understand, the tractor hydraulic filter is on the low pressure side of the pump, so whatever is in the cylinder will get run through the system before getting filtered out. Should I get an inline filter to put in the return hose from the splitter, just to be careful? Is that even possible?

    Would also love to hear from anyone with experience with a Yanmar-brand splitter- can't find anything online about them.
    Last edited by cj7m57; 02-28-2013 at 10:19 PM.

  2. #2
    Silver Member
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    Billings, MT
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    kubota L3400, Farmall 'A', Farmall F-14, Ford 860, JD 4520

    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    Yes, you can install a filter in the return side of the splitter and that would be a smart thing to do. I would feel better knowing that if something happens to the cylinder or if theres some crud in it, then the contaminants would be trapped in the filter before the oil returns to the tractors sump. Flush the old oil out of the cylinder and hoses before you hook it all up. You dont know what oil is in the splitter, or how old it is so better to start out fresh. Sorry, never seen a Yanmar splitter so I cant help you there. My .02 cents.
    Steve

  3. #3
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    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    Great- thanks! I am dying to hook this up and try it out, but better to be careful, right?

    So, I'm thinking something like this: Nortrac Hydraulic Return Filter Assembly 20 GPM | Hydraulic Accessories| Northern Tool + Equipment

  4. #4
    Platinum Member cmhyland's Avatar
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    Woodstock Valley, CT
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    2000 Kubota B2910

    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    CJ7m57,

    I would take the return line from the cylinder and put it in a bucket. Operate the cylinder and blow out the existing fluid... Or I would just find a way to drain it down. When they come new, they are empty.

    Regards,
    Chris

  5. #5
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    Ford 1910 (1983)

    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    Probably best to do this into a closed container because there will still be significant pressure, right? Like a 5 gallon bucket with a lid? How much should I run through the splitter to flush it- a gallon or so?

    Other than changing the fluid, I'm new to hydraulics, so much appreciate the help on this forum!

  6. #6
    Super Star Member J_J's Avatar
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    JACKSONVILLE, FL
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    Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST

    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    Quote Originally Posted by cj7m57 View Post
    So, I just bought a Yanmar 3 pt. splitter off of Craigslist. It looks like it has been maintained OK & was supposedly used this spring, but should I be worried about any gunk that might be in the cylinder before hooking it up to my tractor hydraulics?

    As best I understand, the tractor hydraulic filter is on the low pressure side of the pump, so whatever is in the cylinder will get run through the system before getting filtered out. Should I get an inline filter to put in the return hose from the splitter, just to be careful? Is that even possible?

    Would also love to hear from anyone with experience with a Yanmar-brand splitter- can't find anything online about them.
    I am not so sure that is a good idea.

    It will depend on how you dump the log splitter return fluid.

    If you dump the return line directly through a filter, that is OK.

    If you plug the return hose through a 200 max psi filter to a work port on a remote valve, then ou subject the filter to perhaps 2500 psi pressure.

    The do make inline filters, and they are expensive.

    Most log splitter valves do not have PB, so it is best to dump the OUT fluid directly to tank.

    Here is an inline filter for high pressure.

    Surplus Center - SAE 12 60 GPM HIGH PRESSURE FILTER

    http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PA...ry=productline

    http://www.donaldson.com/en/ih/high/index.html
    J.J.

    When I works, I works hard. When I sits and thinks, I goes to sleep.

    Git er done.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    Hi JJ-- Yes, as best I can tell, the return I am planning is the first one you describe- dumping the fluid back into the differential with little to no restriction in the line other than the 20 micron filter, so it should be low pressure.

    I got the idea for the hose routing from this thread: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/n...iary-port.html, with the picture on pg. 2 (post #16) showing the exact line out/return line setup I'm setting up.

  8. #8
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    Ford 1910 (1983)

    Default Re: 3 pt hitch splitter- filter?

    [QUOTE=J_J;3213529]I am not so sure that is a good idea.

    It will depend on how you dump the log splitter return fluid.

    If you dump the return line directly through a filter, that is OK.

    If you plug the return hose through a 200 max psi filter to a work port on a remote valve, then ou subject the filter to perhaps 2500 psi pressure.
    **************
    Thanks for J_J for the advice- I thought my hookup was OK, but because of what J_J wrote, I put the filter unit inside of a stout bucket when first pressurizing the system. You probably know what happened next. :.) All was good for a few minutes until I used the return detent on the splitter. As soon as the cylinder had returned fully but before the lever came out of detent there was a *WHOP* sound and my filter assembly was no more. :.) No one hurt, and the mess was mostly contained in the bucket- thanks J_J!

    Splitter works well, but using the aux service port setup on the 1910 requires the lift arms first to be raised all the way up, so you get a bit more exercise lifting the logs up to the splitter. :.) Not perfect, but good enough for now on my budget. I did get some movement up and down in the 3 pt after using the splitter for a while. Am thinking this happened as the fluid heated up & thinned, so I am probably due for a new seal somewhere.

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