Nord-lock, Heico-Lock, Belleville LOCK WASHERS; Spiralock LOCK NUTS --- Any Good?

[jeff9366]

What is a SLUG WRENCH?

What are STOVER NUTS?

 

[aczlan]

What is a SLUG WRENCH?

Let me google that for you

What are STOVER NUTS?

Let me google that for you

Aaron Z

 

[PoorPlowboy]

For all the time and money you're throwing at this, what is in essence a lack of maintenance, you could have already torqued them down and disced another 10 acres. Even could have double nutted the axle nuts for a few dollars and been done. Just because someone determines that a trait is common does not make it a problem. The only problem I see is folks more and more frequently not wanting to do a walk around, once over, grease some zerks, and retorque some load bearing nuts according to the owners manual. These folks usually have more dollars than sense to throw at their "problems." Don't make something into a problem that isn't one. Your blood pressure and stress level will decrease.

 

[jeff9366]

I think you're over thinking this.

People told Albert Einstein the same thing.

I am trying to change The World.

 

[RickB]

People told Albert Einstein the same thing.

I am trying to change The World.

Einstein thought outside the box with a full understanding of what it contained.
You are trying to think outside the box without ever having opened it up.

 

[Egon]

Looking at the picture in original post.

Drill shaft & use castle nut and cotter pin.

Drill & tap end of shaft. Bolt on a retainer clip/device of your own making.

 

[PoorPlowboy]

If you drill the axle for a castle nut and cotter pin before wearing in the bearings and axles, you are wasting time and money because once everything settles in, your nut will likely be too far past the hole for the cotter pin to engage the castle nut. The ductile iron axles stretch a fair amount during break in, as stated many times already. The only thing you can do then is stack more money, excuse me, washers under the nut. :laughing:

 

[jeff9366]

I received 1" Swedish vibration proof lock washers today. They are the Nord-Lock design. They are not the Nord-Lock brand. Mildly disappointed.

Removed factory 1" split ring washer from left axle, front and rear. Applied anti-sieze compounds to 1" axle thread. Added 1" Swedish vibration proof lock washer to left axle, front and rear. Tightened Howse nuts with 18-1/2" box end wrench.

On right axles, front and rear, tightened Howse 1-1/2" nut over Howse factory 1" split ring lock washer, as above. Did NOT apply anti-seize compound; threads dry.

I will report on results.

 

[Joemick]

We use Nord-Lock washers in some very rough conditions on sawmill equipment. Our machines can register up to 80G of shock load when processing knotty logs. The machines process over 1200 logs per hour turning them into lumber. Nord-lock is our locking mechanism of choice. We went away from Nord-lock for a few years because of a decision from Engineering. We are back to Nord-Lock now. Our machines could not stand the load without them. We also use Loctite products. We do not need to use them with a Nord Lock. Split lock washers do not hold up to shock loads. Hope this helps.

 

[Xfaxman]

I received 1" Swedish vibration proof lock washers today. They are the Nord-Lock design. They are not the Nord-Lock brand. Mildly disappointed.

Removed factory 1" split ring washer from left axle, front and rear. Applied anti-sieze compounds to 1" axle thread. Added 1" Swedish vibration proof lock washer to left axle, front and rear. Tightened Howse nuts with 18-1/2" box end wrench.

On right axles, front and rear, tightened Howse 1-1/2" nut over Howse factory 1" split ring lock washer, as above. Did NOT apply anti-seize compound; threads dry.

I will report on results.

Since this old thread got revived, how did the Swedish lock washers do?