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  1. #11
    Super Star Member
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    Missouri
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    Kubota, John Deere, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Pretty much what MasseyWV says, I suppose you can get by without stabilizer bars, but we use them on our Fords as otherwise it just flops around too much.

  2. #12
    Super Star Member k0ua's Avatar
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    Jun 2009
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    Branson, Mo.
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    Kioti DK35se Hydrostat

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by murphy1244 View Post
    What makes you say that James?
    I guess you are right,, I looked in the second pix, and they seem OK.. in the first one, I guess it was just the way it was turned, I thought it was worn thru... my mistake.. sorry..


    James K0UA
    James KUA

    Kioti DK35se hydrostat with 2 QA buckets, 48 inch. King Kutter Rotary Cutter. 750 lbs ballast box. Loaded tires, Construction Attachments SSQA Lightweight Pallet forks. EA 50 inch single lid "wicked" Grapple. Satisfied Everlast PA160 welder owner How to add a link to a post . Best way to search TBN


  3. #13
    Platinum Member
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    Feb 2012
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    699
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    Germanton, NC
    Tractor
    Kubota MX5100F IH McCormick Farmall 140, Massey Ferguson 135

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    TSC sells adjustable stabilizers. One of those is often enough unless you are working in heavy material. If in heavy material an adjustable stabilizer and a solid one works good. it will keep the box blade from swinging at all. They look like a longer small diameter top link but just have holes to fit over the pins - no balls in the ends. They do cost more than a solid stabilizer.

  4. #14
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    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by maz View Post
    Ok, so 7/16" lynch pins, adjustable top link, and stabilizer bars. The ball ends may be a little worn but i think they will do, the drawbar I have in there now was not to sloppy. So I do need sabilizer bars for the box scraper? what do they look like? I know i need to replace one pin for them from under the axle.

    Any pictures of one all set up would be great, or at least some pictures of the stabilizer bars.

    Thanks
    Basically, stabilizer bars keep the implement centered behind the tractor and prevent it from swaying back and forth.

    To determine the correct length of the stabilizer bars you'll need, simply measure between the center of the mounting pin below the fender, to the center of the hole in the ball at the end of the lift arm. Adjustable stabilizer bars are also available. The following links have pictures and information about stabilizer bars (also called sway bars).

    What Are Stabilizer Bars and Why Do I Need Them?

    http://www.mytractorforum.com/showpo...9&postcount=19

    Quote Originally Posted by TripleR View Post
    Pretty much what MasseyWV says, I suppose you can get by without stabilizer bars, but we use them on our Fords as otherwise it just flops around too much.
    Likewise, I prefer to use stabilizer bars because the implement tends to move too much for my liking without them. Check chains alone aren't enough. IMHO
    .

  5. #15
    Super Star Member murphy1244's Avatar
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    Nov 2011
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    Ohio
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    Kioti DK 40-Massey ferguson 135-Ventrac 4500 Diesel

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by k0ua View Post
    I guess you are right,, I looked in the second pix, and they seem OK.. in the first one, I guess it was just the way it was turned, I thought it was worn thru... my mistake.. sorry..


    James K0UA
    I asked cause you might have seen something I didn't.
    Murph ------------

  6. #16
    Platinum Member
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    Nov 2012
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    mansfield,Il
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    john deere

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    What is that old girl ?

  7. #17
    Elite Member Xfaxman's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    Meridian, OK
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    Bobcat V417 Toolcat 5610 F TORO+Loader

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by jenkinsph View Post
    When you install the top link you will need to remove the flexible joint shown on the tractor pictured above. If you have to buy a new top link it would be best to hook up the boxblade and level it to see how long a top link you need.
    That "flexible joint" is not removable, it is how the draft control senses pressure on the top link. The old pin is there for the new top link to fit on.

    I agree on putting the on the boxblade to see how long a top link you need, It looks like the lower links have been modified, or strengthened, they might be longer than original.

  8. #18
    Super Member Gary Fowler's Avatar
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    Bismarck Arkansas
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    2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    First I would get rid of ALL those miscellaneous bolts holding the check chains, top of the lift arm on left and right, use correct hardened pins for these connections. You don't want one of those lift arm pins to break and have the box blade crawl up the tire and on to your back. I would put some weld metal on that ball end to build it up, looks like at one time it was flipped and someone dragged it down the road for a few miles to wear it off like that.
    I am not sure that the check chain attachment point by the PTO shaft is suitable for the stresses of a box blade. It looks like all but one bolt is missing and perhaps someone welded it on to the rear housing. It might be ok if a good weld. Adding those stabilizer would remove the stress from this area.
    Of course you do need the correct length top link and some standard pins to attach them, not spare bolts etc. Bolts aren't good for those areas that you have them in, they are too soft, bend or break easily. Get rid of those now before they cause something bad to happen to you or your tractor.
    As for stabilizers, it looks like you have an alternate site to attach them which is that bracket under the fender, one seems to already have a pin, but the other side is missing a pin. Alternately you can usually pin them to the same pin that the lift arms are attached to, however on the right side, I cant quite tell what is holding that side on, looks like someone welded on a nut or something, so you may not be able to use that point for your stabilizers. The one under the fender would be a better choice but would require a longer stabilizer bar. Stabilizer bars are basically just a flat bar about 2" wide by 3/8" thick with holes on each end and a slight bend to allow for the angle between the ball end and the attachment end. There are some adjustable ones available that have a slip joint in the middle but I think they would be a little weaker and may tend to slip.
    2010 LS P-7010C 20F/20R gear tractor & FEL, 2009 Kubota B 26 TLB, RTV 900 Kubota,17 foot Lund boat with 70HP motor, 2012-20 ft 12k GVW trailer, 2011- 52" Craftsman ZTR mower, 2013 Ferris Zero Turn, 3 weed whackers, pressure washer, leaf blowers, 7 foot bush hog, 8 foot landscape rake , 8 foot 3 PH disc, 2 row cultivator, 350 amp Miller AC/DC welding machine and all the tools needed to keep them all repaired and running.

  9. #19
    Elite Member Xfaxman's Avatar
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    Meridian, OK
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    Bobcat V417 Toolcat 5610 F TORO+Loader

    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by kevin37b View Post
    What is that old girl ?
    A tractor!

    Looks like a MF 65 Industrial.

  10. #20
    New Member
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Default Re: What do I need or what am I missing to pull a box blade?

    Well finally got around to getting my 6' Howse box blade and some components to make it all work. I got a 24-33" top link, adjustable stabilizer bar, new check chains and clevis', and also some extra linch pins. I haven't installed the new check chains yet but will get around to it soon. I did buy 2 of the 33 1/4" fixed stabilizer bars but they were to short by a little (most likely due to the lift arm mods). Tried hooking everything up and using it today and i think i started getting the hang of it. After working for a while it seemed like the lift arms were lifting slower and needed to raise the rpms to get them to work well. Could it be that once the tractor and fluids got warm or hot that the fluid thinned and became less efficient? fluid was milky so moisture was present. I need to address that point.

    Here are some pics.
    -dscn0093-jpg
    -dscn0095-jpg
    -dscn0097-jpg
    -dscn0100-jpg
    -dscn0102-jpg
    -dscn0104-jpg

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