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  1. #41
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    Kubota, John Deere, Case, Massey Ferguson, Ford

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Being unfamiliar with the Frontier, I had to look it up and the construction looks really good and weight is right at where I would expect of a good quality unit; I think you will be very happy with it. There are threads on effective use of them and Everything Attachments has a good video. To get good the best thing is just time and experience. I have been using them for years and still have not learned as much as I would like.

  2. #42
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    Feb 2012
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    Staunton, VA
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    John Deere 3038E

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    DP
    The Frontier is a good blade. The hinged rear blade, I understand, is useful. But the financing makes really sound sense. You will be surprised at how quickly you pick up the finesse of using a box blade. Try it flat at first and let it fill. Then try the light touch, and try with it tilted. You'll probably not need the rippers for ordinary grading, but they sure are helpful when winter brings you heavy ice. BTW, the BB is practically useless in snow, except as ballast. Once I have a basically good road bed, I just go out and back with the BB running almost completely full. It seems you're moving a lot of stone, but you're really not. And it leaves a nice smooth surface if you extend your top link so the back blade smooths.

    Good luck and enjoy.

  3. #43
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    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    I'm looking forward to getting some time with the new blade. Lord knows the driveway is needing it. It's a half mile of gravel that has been lacking maintenance for a couple of years. I'll post back once e I've had a chance to get some seat time with the new tractor and blade. Weather permitting I'll probably be cutting the fields first as it looks like the tractor and cutter will be delivered a week or two ahead of the blade and rake I ordered.

  4. #44
    Platinum Member
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    Feb 2012
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    Staunton, VA
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    John Deere 3038E

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Quote Originally Posted by DPTURBO29 View Post
    I'm looking forward to getting some time with the new blade. Lord knows the driveway is needing it. It's a half mile of gravel that has been lacking maintenance for a couple of years. I'll post back once e I've had a chance to get some seat time with the new tractor and blade. Weather permitting I'll probably be cutting the fields first as it looks like the tractor and cutter will be delivered a week or two ahead of the blade and rake I ordered.
    Good luck. With normal rainfall, I work my mile drive about every four or five months. Remember to not use the BB on a gravel drive immediately after a rain unless you have heavy rock under the gravel. It will be so soft that you can tear up all your gravel in places... And even bog down your tractor. For a first shot I'd make sure all is quite dry for your first experiments.

    Rain here has pushed up the grass and weeds, so I've got some cutting to do first of the week as well.

  5. #45
    Elite Member ovrszd's Avatar
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    Missouri
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    Kubota M9540, JD2210

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Quote Originally Posted by PhysAssist View Post
    Hey Bubbacuse,

    I do have to kind of agree with your point about the tilt, but we do not often find any need to tilt or angle our blade very often (though that could be because we don't have TnT and we DO have a ROBB :-) ).

    But regarding your point about using the top link adjustment for changing the box blade's angle of engagement- that's more of an issue with the standard (nonrollover) BB's because of the need to accurately/carefully manage the angle of the BB to control which of and how the dual blades and/or scarifiers engage.

    With the rollovers, because of the ability to engage the blades and/or the scarifiers separately, the top link doesn't require adjustment often (if at all) in order to achieve the desired result.

    For us in particular, the roll-over BB has essentially been a set and forget tool, allowing us to concentrate on doing the job, and not adjusting the angle of approach.

    I know that Mr. MtnView is an advocate for TnT on tractors where it will add needed utility and be used often, but one of the reasons that he is respected so well here, is that even though he manufactures/builds them, he isn't fanatically trying to sell them to every person on TBN who has a 3-pt implement on their tractor.

    As I have said before, he is one of the several folks who, on my long review of past posts on TBN while lurking and not posting, have virtually always offered considered and balanced advice without beating a topic/viewpoint into the ground, or being overbearing.

    In my case, and perhaps the OP's as well (although I don't pretend to be clairvoyant enough to know his/her particular needs or situation), it may not be necessary to have TnT, if using the inherent abilities of the rollover BB suffices to give adequate control and function, and it (TnT) is a not an insignifianct expenditure.

    Add to these facts/benefits, the substantial weight and pretty much uniformly heavy-duty construction of the average roll-over BB, and it's a pretty good starter package for someone new to using 3-point implements for grading.

    In my case, my prior experience with tractors was disking/plowing/etc., as a kid on my uncle's farm with single hitch/draw bar farmalls and the like, and none with 3-point hitches, yet within a very short time, I was able to start to use our ROBB (I think) reasonably effectively to perform all its advertised functions in a variety of substrates and settings- grading the clay banks of our pond, ripping and digging topsoil to move and use as fill, leveling our pot holed gravel driveway and spreading new gravel among others.

    Further, my wife, who is somewhat mobility-impaired, and who had never before operated a tractor, was also able to learn how to use it after only a very brief tutorial (thanks for the videos EA!).

    Thomas

    PS: I must add that I also do not pretend to know what Mr. MtnView was thinking or his intent when posting, except for the overt advice he offered.....

    Thomas

    All said from an operator that does not have TnT.

    As with most posters on this site, money rules.

    If I was starting with a tractor that didn't have rear remotes, I'd spend my money first on installing them, then on TnT, then on the best, heaviest BB I could still afford. The ultimate goal being a TnT equipped tractor with hydraulic operated scarifier on the heaviest BB my tractor could handle. And I'd search for used BBs. There are literally hundreds of them on www.tractorhouse.com

    I stumbled onto a used LandPride HR3584 7' BB for $1000. I spent an additional $120 doing some minor repairs and adding new hydraulic hoses.
    Richard
    Kubota M9540, JD2210

  6. #46
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    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Quote Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
    All said from an operator that does not have TnT.

    As with most posters on this site, money rules.

    If I was starting with a tractor that didn't have rear remotes, I'd spend my money first on installing them, then on TnT, then on the best, heaviest BB I could still afford. The ultimate goal being a TnT equipped tractor with hydraulic operated scarifier on the heaviest BB my tractor could handle. And I'd search for used BBs. There are literally hundreds of them on www.tractorhouse.com

    I stumbled onto a used LandPride HR3584 7' BB for $1000. I spent an additional $120 doing some minor repairs and adding new hydraulic hoses.
    As an owner of 2 tractors that have "TnT", both with Gannon roll over box blades, 99% of the time, once the top link is set, there is no reason to have to readjust it. This is not true of any std type box blades that I know of, cheap or industrial. Now the side link is a different story altogether. So in your case, you need 3 rear remotes, while a person with a ROBB only needs 1.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  7. #47
    Elite Member ovrszd's Avatar
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    Missouri
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    Kubota M9540, JD2210

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    As an owner of 2 tractors that have "TnT", both with Gannon roll over box blades, 99% of the time, once the top link is set, there is no reason to have to readjust it. This is not true of any std type box blades that I know of cheap or industrial. Now the side link is a different story altogether.
    Yeah, I didn't enter the discussion about whether a standard BB was better or worse than a roll over BB. I've never used a roll over so didn't feel qualified for that opinion. With that said, a BB with retractable Scarifier is pretty nice.

    So Brian,,,, which would you buy first,,, a BB or TnT???
    Richard
    Kubota M9540, JD2210

  8. #48
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    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    I guess it depends on what you are doing, but if I could only choose one, hydraulic top link or side link, I would pick top link as I find it handy as heck on every piece of equipment we use on a 3PH. Having used a tractor with TnT for a while now, I wouldn't buy another one without it and will eventually add it to our M8540.

  9. #49
    Elite Member
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    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Quote Originally Posted by ovrszd View Post
    Yeah, I didn't enter the discussion about whether a standard BB was better or worse than a roll over BB. I've never used a roll over so didn't feel qualified for that opinion. With that said, a BB with retractable Scarifier is pretty nice.

    So Brian,,,, which would you buy first,,, a BB or TnT???
    "TnT" In my mind, sort of like buying a car without air conditioning. Do you really have to have it? NO, but it sure is nice.
    Brian
    Top and Tilt Kits by Fit Rite Hydraulics

  10. #50
    Elite Member ovrszd's Avatar
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    Kubota M9540, JD2210

    Default Re: Best Box Blade For My Money

    Yeah I agree Larry. I use my top hyd top link on every attachment.

    I used my triple remotes a lot last week. At first it's a little confusing. But I run a road grader so am used to a LOT of levers. Once I mastered it all it's pretty amazing what can be done. Reminded me of threads I had read on here several years ago posted by RRL. He added hydraulics and built retractable Scarifiers on his BB and built an extensive driveway to his property. He could do some pretty amazing grade work.
    Richard
    Kubota M9540, JD2210

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