Ford Series 101 Plow, 2-12 / Interference Issue With Right Lifting Road / 3-Pt.

[jeff9366]

Ford Series 101 Plow, 2-12 / Interference Issue With Right Lifting Rod / 3-Pt.

Common Carrier delivered this Ford Series 101, 2-12 Turning Plow yesterday, purchased from excellent Sweet Tractors.

I got plow off the pallet yesterday evening. This morning I am adjusting plow to my Kubota B3300SU / 33-hp / 1,900 pounds / 4-WD.

Harry Ferguson and Henry Ford worked on the Ford 3-Pt. design and implements together. I though this plow would go right on the Kubota 3-Point. But there is an issue with the massive First Beam on the plow interfering with the right (turnbuckle) lifting rod.

When the Landing Lever is all the way to the rear, the first beam rubs the barrel of the adjusting rod.

When the Landing Lever is in center position there is 7/8" clearance. Not enough clearance when plow and tractor are moving semi-independently.

When the Landing Lever is forward there is 1-3/4" clearance.

(Stabilwork's pin adjustable stabilizers are pinned to hold plow just to left of center between tires.)

When I get the plow working in the field any obstruction in the ground will make the First Beam smack into the lifting rod with 650+ pounds of inertia, likely ruining the lifting rod.

The plow cross shaft is in its "normal" position, one hole showing on the right.

I will be plowing on flat ground, sandy-loam soil, minimal rocks and those soft limerick.

WHAT AM I MISSING? i know there is a secret.....

One solution would be to take the First Beam to the welding shop and have them bandsaw off 6" but I am reluctant to cut this completely stock "classic" plow.

Surely there must be some adjustment, or combination of adjustments, I am missing.....

I have never owned a plow, I have never adjusted a plow, I have never plowed. [ Wish I could post this line in LATIN but I got kicked out of Latin class after three days. She said I would be sorry. ]

Photo #2 Landing Lever to rear; First Beam interferes with right lifting rod.

Photo #3 + #4 Landing Lever in center; some clearance.

Photo #4 Landing Lever forward; 1-3/4" clearance.

Minutia: Why are there both HEX and SQUARE head bolts on this plow? Is there an advantage to square head bolts in some applications?

 

[DJ54]

How about a set of draft arm extensions..?? I have a set for my old Super C Farmall, that go one the ends of the fast hitch conversion tongs, to keep my finish mower back away from the rear tires. I tried to find a set, to show you an example, but can't seem to find them. It would cut down on your lift capacity some, but not sure it would be a problem with the plow. The old Farmall has no problem lifting a 6' finish mower, and the hydraulics on it aren't near, what's on your 'Bota.

It looks like the rockshaft arms are pretty close together, and the lift links are at more of an angle than on my Ford 2000. As nice as that plow is, it's be a shame to cut it off.

Ken (Sweet) may have some of the extensions, or give you an idea of what to do.

 

[Arkaybee]

It appears that the entire three-point mounting apparatus can and should be moved forward to the existing forward holes in the beam. If this is possible then that would solve the interference issues because the beam and plow would effectively be moved rearward since you would have moved the mounting points closer to the tractor.

HTH

Arkaybee

 

[DJ54]

The C/NH parts book shows a different style U-bolt holding that coulter on, that go through the frame, hence the extra forward holes in the #1 beam: Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

And the upper frame in the parts book shows only two bolt holes: Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

And looks to me, the top frame is pretty close to the front end of the #2 beam.

 

[KYErik]

The easiest solution would be to cut part of that bar off- perhaps the plow was made to mount to a larger tractor with longer lift arms and a wider inner lift arm attachment point. But I don't even see the purpose of the bar- unless these two bottoms plow were part of a larger (4-6 bottom) plow that was reconfigured (the 3 point hitch was attached to the rear 2 bottoms).

On the other hand, this looks like a good "excuse" to get a Pat's EZ change hitch. It will move the plow back about 4". I got mine last fall and it makes hitching/unhitching much easier.

 

[jeff9366]

KYErik

It is a Ford plow. It is probable it was designed to pull behind a Ford 8N or its successors, generally 23-hp / 3,000 pounds and physically larger than my Kubota B3300SU. {Hey, I see you have a 1963 Ford 4000.}

That said, it is a later Ford Series 101 (blue rather than red paint) and the three points specs should have been standardized within the Ford tractor line years earlier, so I assumed it would fit fine on the B3300SU.

The bar, Ford nomenclature First Beam, carries the front coulter, which I removed for photo clarity. There is a coulter stem interference issue too, but I am pretty certain I can eliminate stem interference by mounting the First Beam Clamp (coulter clamp) on opposite side of First Beam, if coulters are necessary to plow under Bahia pasture grass. In manual it appears the First Beam was the same for 2-3-4 bottom plows.

This plow has massive components; it overawes the light Kubota but the Kubota lifts plow's 650 pounds no sweat.

Ford Series 101 plows shipped in parts, crated, to the farmer. The farmer assembled the plow with directions contained in "FORD Series 101 Operators Manual". Manual does not picture single bottom plows. But 2-3-4 bottom plows are picutred and were assembled by adding beams, etc.

Cutting that beam is the last resort.

 

[GreenWannabe]

I'll second the motion on the Pat's Easy Change. It will move your atttachment point back four inches, but it will make hookup of your three-point implements much simpler as well. You will probably need to get a longer top link to keep the same hitch geometry, and will need to check to make sure your pto shafts still fit as well, if you have any pto driven implements. If needed, you can buy a pto shaft extender from Tractor Supply or Agri Supply that will add the four inches to your shaft length.

 

[jeff9366]

It appears that the entire three-point mounting apparatus can and should be moved forward to the existing forward holes in the beam.

Unfortunately, there is only one set of holes through the First Beam. No adjustment available. Photo #2 is backside of beam in Photo #1.

The holes further forward on the beam are smaller and likely for U-bolt installation for coulter stem mounts, not applicable to the particular Series 101 plow. {See DJ54's helpful New Holland parts post, parts #12 + #13 Ford nomenclature: coulter stem seat.}

THANK YOU, DJ54.

Good suggestion. I am seeking suggestions.

 

[jeff9366]

I'll second the motion on the Pat's Easy Change. It will move your atttachment point back four inches, but it will make hookup of your three-point implements much simpler as well.

Good suggestion but no banana. I have a set of Pat's EC boxed in the garage. I decided on the Stabilworks pin adjustable stabilizers rather than Pat's because the Stabilwork's mech reinforces the lower links when pushing in reverse. I have a 650 pound Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade. The first time I PUSHED dirt with it I bent the Kubota turnbuckle check chains, which weigh 4 pounds +/-. The Stabilworks mechs weight 14+ pounds and support both lower links in reverse, not just one. In REVERSE I figure six times more supportive of lower links than Kubota check chains.

Also useful reinforcement when ramming a rotary cutter into the jungle tail wheel first, with tractor in reverse.

VIDEO:

Kubota tractor stabilizers Kubota [url]www.stabilworks.com - YouTube[/url]

I always envied the pin stabilizers on the Kubota "Grand L" series. When someone posted info on Stabilworks I bought and have been happy, especially in reverse.

 

[GreenWannabe]

Do the Stabilworks links interfere with mounting the Pats Easy Change? I wouldn't think so, since the standard PEC attaches to the hitch balls, IIRC.

 

[jeff9366]

Do the Stabilworks links interfere with mounting the Pats Easy Change? I wouldn't think so, since the standard PEC attaches to the hitch balls, IIRC.

With Stabilworks arms pinned open, it is easy to back up to implement draw pins, set the lower links to same level as draw pins, pull the Stabilworks pins, and push lower link eyes on draw pins.

Stabilwork's mechs would not be needed with the heavier class of 50+HP Utility Tractors, but for CUTS and the Kubota B series in particular, they are a wonderful addition adding strength in a weak area when PUSHING loads in reverse.

There are multiple threads here on T-B-N from owners of compact tractors, various brands, who bent lower links and/or lifting rods when PUSHING loads in reverse.

I have several PTO implements. I do not want to add shaft length adaptors if I can avoid it.

BACK TO MY FORD SERIES 101 PLOW.......PLEASE......

 

[jeff9366]

Re: Ford Series 101 Plow, 2-12 / Interference Issue With Right Lifting Rod / 3-Pt.

The plow cross shaft is in its "normal" position, one hole showing on the right.

WHAT AM I MISSING? i know there is a secret.....

Surely there must be some adjustment, or combination of adjustments, I am missing.....

I suspicion moving the cross shaft may help. But is not a "fine" adjustment and I need someone with Series 101 plow experience to comment.

Farmwithjunk.....are you out there?

 

[vegaome]

Re: Ford Series 101 Plow, 2-12 / Interference Issue With Right Lifting Rod / 3-Pt.

Howdy,

Nice looking plow you have there. I am not an expert but you could trade that plow for one that will fit better if you can't figure it out. If you do cut a piece off the beam, save it, maybe it could be welded back on later.

v/r

Mike

 

[sweettractors]

Standing behind the plow, looking forward, I would slide the plow to the left on the cross drawbar and also rotate the cross drawbar just a little while it is out of the ground and see if it pivots away from the tractor lift arm. In addition, if you get 3/4" to 1 inch clearance between the plow beam and the lift arm, set your tractors sway chains to never let it go any further to the right in the plow down position. Ken Sweet

 

[nspec]

I ran the identical plow on a b2630 using Pat's with no issues.

 

[sweettractors]

Standing behind the plow, looking forward, I would slide the plow to the left on the cross drawbar and also rotate the cross drawbar just a little while it is out of the ground and see if it pivots away from the tractor lift arm. In addition, if you get 3/4" to 1 inch clearance between the plow beam and the lift arm, set your tractors sway chains to never let it go any further to the right in the plow down position. Ken Sweet

In addition, insert a spacer with 7/8 ID and about 1 1/8 OD, between the tractors right lift arm ball and the plow's right hitch pin.This will keep the plow from sliding back to the right. Ken Sweet

 

[kydick]

my thoughts also. i have had a 101 ford 2 bottom 14 inch plow on a 801 ford that came with it in 1960. put it on a 1978 2600 ford some years later. put it on a 1998 3190 ford. then put it on a 2005 TN70da. worked on all of them but had to move the cross shaft so the plow would pull straight behind on each tractor. had to be adjusted for every tractor.
kydick

 

[milkman]

Good suggestion but no banana. I have a set of Pat's EC boxed in the garage. I decided on the Stabilworks pin adjustable stabilizers rather than Pat's because the Stabilwork's mech reinforces the lower links when pushing in reverse. I have a 650 pound Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade. The first time I PUSHED dirt with it I bent the Kubota turnbuckle check chains, which weigh 4 pounds +/-. The Stabilworks mechs weight 14+ pounds and support both lower links in reverse, not just one. In REVERSE I figure six times more supportive of lower links than Kubota check chains.

Also useful reinforcement when ramming a rotary cutter into the jungle tail wheel first, with tractor in reverse.

VIDEO:

Kubota tractor stabilizers Kubota [url]www.stabilworks.com - YouTube[/url]

I always envied the pin stabilizers on the Kubota "Grand L" series. When someone posted info on Stabilworks I bought and have been happy, especially in reverse.

You lost me with this post, why would there be an objection to running the Pat's Easy Change AND the Stabilworks at the same time? Couldn't you just set the Stabilworks at the right width and back up with the Pat's and then just lift the arms to latch the Pat's to the plow????

 

[jeff9366]

I have multiple attachments that are PTO powered. If I use the Pat's EC it is probable I would have to add shaft extenders to one of more of the implements, which I do not want to do.

With the rigid stabilizers hooking up implements is MUCH easier than without them, the Pat's EC are redundant. However, for the Ford 101 plow, the additional 4" of length on the lower links would provide one possible solution.

I have all the bits suggested by Ken Sweet, plus a few more I thought might be helpful when browsing at TSC. I hope to implement Ken Sweet's suggestions in the next ten days, I have been occupied with other projects recently.

 

[beckmurph]

If you move your top link to the lower hole on your tractor and use the lower hole on your plow, would that bring the top of the plow closer to the tractor and pitch that bar down some.
Also, if every thing is tight on your 3ph, there shouldn't be any movement in the plow, and that bar should not hit anything.
When you are plowing, will the left side of the tractor be higher than the right. Would this allow for a different adjustment on the side link?
I have never used a plow, so this may be of no help. :laughing: