Is 3x3x3/8 angle ok for grader/plane build?

[jbwrangler]

Found some 3x3x3/8 angle for a good price. I want to build a 7' Dura Grader type grader/plane for my 45hp JD5105. Will this material be sufficient for the cross pieces that hold the cutting edges? Also would like to use it for the cross pieces on the frame.

Thanks

 

[kneedeep]

that's a good piece of iron, should work for a road grader IMHO! :thumbsup:

 

[RickB]

There's a lot of strength in steel that size if the design is good. Consider welding two pieces back to back making a T shape for added strength.

 

[Rustyiron]

I used 4x6x3/8 with triangular "gussets" welded in underneith every 2' or so. I may have overbuilt it but my concern was that the grader blade bolted to is would prolly not put up with much flex before it cracked. The 4x6 also sets up a good blade angle.

 

[jenkinsph]

When I built my first landplane I had some 3x3x3/8 angle to work with and used it with flatbar to make my blade carriers. So I have a piece of 5/8" x8" flatbar on a 45 degree angle with a piece of the 3" angle on the top boxed in and a second piece on the bottom (rear) just above the bolt holes.

On my second build I planned a little better and used 4x4x1/2 for the blade carriers and box tubing with a heavy wear strip to make the skids. I can tell you this much the 4x4 is easier fit the blades to than a 3x3.

Here's the pics of the two I built.

 

[hazmat ranger]

Nicely done!
Question: I've noticed some are built with blades angled. Anyone see a benefit of one built angled vs straight?

 

[Rustyiron]

My thinking is that an angled blade may tend to shave a high spot better than a straight blade. The other function (of an angled blade) is to bring the loosened material to one side for re building the crown.

 

[jenkinsph]

Nicely done!
Question: I've noticed some are built with blades angled. Anyone see a benefit of one built angled vs straight?

I am problably the only one on the site that cares from what I have seen. I use my landplanes for smoothing lawn and field areas primarily. When I pitch the plane forward and back I wan't the blades to remain parallel with the ground so I use the straight configuration. With angled blades when you pitch the plane forward the blade edge rises at the trailing edge, That is fine for crowning a road but not as good to plane a large area flat. Both types work very well though and I think we are splitting hairs for the most part.

What you do wan't is high weight, frame rigidity, long skid running length and top n tilt hydraulics. Good 6" wide x 5/8" thick reversible grader blades are my choice. Fit Rite hydaulics is an excellent source for the tnt kit.

 

[bcp]

Here are a couple of videos showing the sideward gravel movement with angled blades. There isn't much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0RYsqcSoXk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0siHL7EPJXM

 

[jenkinsph]

My thinking is that an angled blade may tend to shave a high spot better than a straight blade. The other function (of an angled blade) is to bring the loosened material to one side for re building the crown.

While I understand the theory behind shaving with an angled blade in practice the low degree of angle being used on a plane wouldn't make much difference imo. With proper weight both straight and angled blades will shave off a high spot easily. The angled blade does help a little moving the material to one side as you mention for building a crown and is a good choice if driveway and road maintenance is your main priority. I use a rear blade for ditches and crowning for faster results.