Do I Need A Rear Blade?

[rwork]

I've got a gravel drive that is about 500' long, and will be adding another 300' or so to it. I currently have a 6' Box Blade that I use behind my LS R3039H, and was wondering if a rear blade would be more useful for crowning and ditching. The first 400' of drive has a fairly steep grade, and I've got to get the water diverted to the side, instead of down the drive.
If a rear blade would be a help, would you go for a 6 or 7 footer?
Your suggestions are appreciated!

 

[Baby Grand]

A rear blade is helpfull for crowning as you can turn it and tip it such that it will remove material from the outside of the road and move it to the center.

Measure the track of your tires - outside to outside. Multiply this dimension by 1.15 and that's wide enough to cover your rear track when it's turned at a 30 [deg] angle. To get the required size for different angles, divide your track width by the cosine of the angle.

A blade that can offset as well as tip & tilt is really nice. The heavier the better. Hydraulics? Yes!

 

[/pine]

Without seeing the grades it is difficult to assess...my (single track) road has many hills and turns and I have found it better to pitch the lane rather than crown it...this eliminates ditching both sides...
For general shaping my rear blade works best mostly because it is much heavier than my box blade and I can angle it...
Once conditioned I top everything with crusher run and then reverse my rear blade and set the pitch closer to horizontal than vertical and the result is like a pancake...I use a rake periodically to groom it...

 

[LD1]

A rear blade would do a lot better for crowning and ditching IMO. I'd go 7'.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

One of these would be ideal, but costly. A 7 footer would fit your tractor well.

But then something like this works GREAT for simple maintenance. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[DKCDKC]

I've got a full mile of gravel drive, with steep hills, curves on the hills, water breaks and more. I have a box blade, a rear blade and a rock rake. I bought all of them used and each serves specific purposes. For hills where water has moved gravel around, the box blade is fantastic at putting it back. The rear blade is helpful for shaping, although most of my drive is pitched and not crowned. And the rake is great for light touchups, and bringing back gravel that has been scattered off the road. Recently I acquired a Ratchett Rake and will add that it is also great at touchup on gravel and filling small ruts. It is particularly handy since I leave it on the FEL most of the time so I can push brush down - so it's handy for smoothing out a rut or some washboarding.

All these tools are great doing what they do... But for those folks with limited funds, they are also great to get used. With these kinds of things you can instantly see the condition and know exactly what you are getting.

 

[GregbkH]

One of these would be ideal, but costly. A 7 footer would fit your tractor well.

But then something like this works GREAT for simple maintenance. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

MtnViewRanch is spot on. I have a half mile of gravel road to maintain. I have the RBT 3584 rear blade and a King Kutter 7' landscape rake. At the end of this month I'll also have the GS2584 grading scraper as well. With the three of these maintaining gravel roads will be a cinch. Ditching, shaping and crowning the road is where the rear blade shines. Skid shoes are a must. Be warned.... it takes some getting used to using the rear blade. Getting rid of high spots and filling in low spots is where the grading scraper comes in. This one is quite easy to use. The landscape rake is very good at doing light touch up work as well as for other uses around the homestead.

 

[kco]

I have a Farm King rear blade and landscape rake to maintain my 600' drive. The rake is more effective (for me). The rake has guage wheels that do a good job of preventing bumps.

Farm King - Finishing Mower

My driveway has 4" of 3/4" gravel that makes it easy to maintain. Even without the guage wheels I prefer the rake over the blade.

If feasible, an ample layer of good gravel makes maintenance easier.