What's a fair price for this rear blade?

[94BULLITT]

I think you will be real happy with that blade. A box blade is also hand to have and so is a landscape rake.

I bought my tufline blade new but it looked like yours. I guess it had been sitting around for 5-6 years. It had sank into the ground. I repainted and called Tufline to see about a set of decals for it. They sent them to me free of charge.

 

[PhysAssist]

Wow, thanks for the pics and info Bullitt. I replaced those pins first thing. I don't like cobble :thumbsup:

Yep, it was on CL. I was afraid to mention it earlier because I wanted it :laughing: When the guy was loading it up he said he had 4-5 guys wanting to come and get it but I'm pretty sure I was the first one to contact him about it cause the post wasn't but a little bit old when I seen it.

I got a Woods box blade coming this week but I've been reading a lot of people say that you really need both. That you'll likely use the BB a lot more, but there are some things you need a GB for. I was dreading the thought of buying a new one cause I wanted a HD one and they're higher than a cat's back. I was really lucky to have ran across this one when I did, and I just happened to look at CL on a whim because I was bored.

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Hi, thanks for the answer, even with the wrong color, it looks great on that tractor!

When I get back to work, I have to remember to keep looking on CL so I can find an awsome dealio like that.

Congrats on that and your new BB!

Happy and safe tractoring!

Thomas

 

[number9L]

Well, as someone posted earlier, the blade IS too big haha. I can't use it as is because any dip or low spot the rear tires go in the blade hangs me up. I'm gonna get some 1/2" steel and recreate the lift pin mounts and weld them onto the bottom of the existing mounts so I can pick it up 4-5" higher. I've got some 1/2" scrap but don't know if I have enough. I'll post pics when I get it done.

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[MtnViewRanch]

Well, as someone posted earlier, the blade IS too big haha. I can't use it as is because any dip or low spot the rear tires go in the blade hangs me up. I'm gonna get some 1/2" steel and recreate the lift pin mounts and weld them onto the bottom of the existing mounts so I can pick it up 4-5" higher. I've got some 1/2" scrap but don't know if I have enough. I'll post pics when I get it done.

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Your "TnT" is going out next week. With the hydraulic top link, you should be able to get it picked up pretty high.

 

[94BULLITT]

I'd just shorten the hydraulic toplink for transporting it.

Sent from my Samsung SPH-L710 using TractorByNet

 

[/pine]

That's a very nice blade...especially for the price paid...!

With T&T you can do some amazing work with that blade and rarely have to get out of the seat....

I have a much older, similar in weight blade with the same basic articulations that continues to impress me with what it can do...(besides making a good rear counter weight for FEL work)

Spin the blade 180* and tilt it back a little and it will spread (loader bucket) piles of gravel etc. like a paving machine...!

If my rear blade had some sort of scarifiers/rippers I would rarely need my box blade...
...you have a great tool there...learn it's potential and enjoy the benefits...!

 

[number9L]

Your "TnT" is going out next week. With the hydraulic top link, you should be able to get it picked up pretty high.

CRAP...... I need to get to work on getting this valve put together and installed then!!!!


Basically, going to do the opposite of what I did here today, only on the blade I'll have to address the top link mount too - which will allow me to put it in position to be CAT1 QH compatible and not have to move the top hook on the QH from where it is for the BB.....

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/288170-harbor-freight-qh-interference-pto.html

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[6011Artist]

I have both box and grader blades and you are right, you'll use the box blade more but when needed, that grader blade is the trick.

Looks like you found a great deal on that one.